To His Family (Bouja)

BoujA, SSn August 1839. My dear Father and Mother, — I have just this day received your kind letter, addressed to Constantinople. It has been a great refreshment to me, and I feel very thankful to God for bringing it safe to my hand. If you have read Eliza’s letter first, you will see that I have had a lotig and dangerous illness, but that it has pleased God again to restore me to health. I know you will not be satisfied without a full and particular account of it firom beginning to end, and therefore I send this along with Eliza’s. Before beginning, let me say, that if you will only lay aside all anxiety and murmuring, you will find, as I do, only matter for thankfulness and praise. You will find fresh proofs that God is watching over your son, unworthy as he is, yea, is leading him by the hand in ways that he knew not. I may also mention that I have now been 19 days entirely free from fever, that the medical man has long ceased to visit me, that I am daily gaining my wonted strength and vigor, and that a week hence I expect to be on the Danube, if that be God’s’ will.

You will notice, in reading an account of our tour to the lake of Tiberias, that we had intended to visit Damascus also, and to spend three weeks, instead of a fortnight, in our inquiries. This we were unable to do, from the disturbed state of the country. We had therefore a week to spend in Beyrout before the sailing of the steamboat for Smyrna. You cannot tell how grieved, we were at this, both because it was spending money in doing nothing, and also because of the beat of Beyrout. We thought of going up to -Mount Lebanon, but we did not know rightly where to go, and we had no distinct object in view. Accordingly, we just remained in the inn at Beyrout. The thermometer was generally about 85° or 90° in the day-time, but often 96° in the night. It is this which makes the heat peculiarly oppressive. There is no Jand breeze. Every thing is still in the night.

I felt quite well till the Thursday, but that evening (25lh July) felt weary and oppressed. What the occasion of my illness was I do not exactly know. The doctor said it was something disagreeing with my’ stomach. Some thought it was the heat I myself thought it was by infection, for I had that day sen and touched a young Glasgow lad ill of fever. However this may be, it was the will of our Father, who is wisest of all, and more loving even than y6u, that I should become severely ill that night. I soon went to bed, and remembering how useful an emetic is on such occasions, took one which Dr. Hunter had * packed up for me. This did me a great deal of good. The Doctor came a little after-^ Dr. Gerstmann-^a converted Jew, and delightful young German — the physician to the Jerusalem mission, who happened to be in Beyrout at the time. His treatment of me I do not exactly remember; however, it seemed very good, and was very successful. He in-r sisted on my leaving town the next evening, which I did upon an ass’s back, and ascended about 1000 feet to a fine airy house among mulberry gardens. Here I was stretched upon my mat, which I have sent home to you, and a mattress upon the floor.

182 PAMILIAft LBTTBS8,

On Saturday I had a little fever, and, complaining of a roaring like the sea in my ears, was bled with leeches behind the ears. This relieved me; and on Sabbath morning the doctor pronounced me free from any disease. By mid-day I was still better. The question now then was, shall we sail by this steamer, or shall we wait for three weeks longer at Beyrout? The Doctor feared to-advise; still he thought it better I should go; ‘and, indeed, the thought of staying three weeks more in Beyrout seemed intolerable to me. We em-* barked the same day, assisted by many kind friends whom we had made. I was very weak, so that I could hardly stand without support. I was very sick in the small boat, 80 that I lost both sight and hearing. But I had not been long in the steamer till I felt greatly better. The cool sea-breeze revived me, and I found myself by sunset talking a little with 4 Jews whom we met now for the 4th time. Andrew Bonar mentions them in his published Alexandria letter. They were very sorry to see me laid low; and I felt that it was like a testimony to them that we were seeking their salvation, and not our o?n things. Both Andrew and Mr. Caiman were

FAMILIAE LETTBR8* 183

very sick the whole way to Smyrna, so that they could only help me when the vessel stopped. Nobody on board could speak English, except one young gentleman, who had a little. I had therefore to call up all my Italian, and never before learned so much the use of it. The stewards were all kindness to me — putting me to bed, and bringing me every thing I wanted. By mistake I drank some green tea, which prevented by sleeping, so that on Monday morning, when we arrived off Cyprus, I was in high fever. We waited from 6 to 12 at anchor. The heat was intense — not a breath of wind. They helped me on deck under the awning, and an umbrella too; but I felt as I never felt before; I knew that I had a Father in heaven, who had forgiven and redeemed me, and therefore I resolved to fear no evil. My voice became very low, almost inaudible. I thought my head would burst in two. At last my faculties, one by one, began to give way. I could not remember where we were going. Still I thought of you all; and though I could not expect ever to see you again, I prayed that my death might be more blessed to you than all my life had been.

I got leeches from Cyprus, and when the ship set sail got the steward to put them on the back of my head, but only 4 of them would bite. The cool breeze revived me very much, and by sunset I was able to totter about the deck. I felt that I needed blood to be taken from my head still, and fell upon the plan of making my nose bleed, which it did plentifully, and relieved me much. That night I slept pretty well till morning, but awoke feverish again. We stayed at Rhodes from 6 to 12, and this again was a dreadful time to me. I remained below, however, and found it better than the deck. I slowly revived after the vessel moved and the breeze sprung up. That evening I could walk the deck pretty well, and felt stronger than I had yet done. I began to enjoy the view of the lovely islands of Greece, Patmos, and Samos, and the view of a splendid English frigate, in full sail, which hailed us. The very sight of something English was pleasing. I thought there were hundreds on board the frigate who had homes and kindred like me and yet, perhaps, not one looked to them in the same way as I did. That evening the steward bathed my feet in hot “water and vinegar, and put me to bed, so that I slept well, and was refreshed.

The next day, Thursday, the awning could not be put up, so I could not go on deck. I felt the heat very much, and had a little feverishness. In the evening the awning was up, and I could sit on the deck. At 7 Smyrna came in sight, to my great thankfulness and joy. The sun set as we stepped ashore and took up our rest in the inn; but when I looked around, it was dismal indeed. The walls were so tKin, that I knew it would be like an oven when the sun was up. The rooms were small. The noise of sailors and passers by was dreadful; and to complete all, the English doctor lived out of town, and so, we were told, did Mr. Calhoun — a gentleman whom we met in Egypt, who was very kind to us, and asked us to come to him when we came to Smyrna. Salvo, the innkeeper, told us he had another inn an hour’s ride into the country. I asked the name of the place. At Bouja, a country viU lage. We were told that both Mr. Calhoua and the doctor lived in the same village.

I resolved immediately to set out. The coincidence appeared remarkable. The town r knew would be hotter than the country, and I wanted the doctor to see me that night) feeling that time was precious. After tea we got asses, and the innkeeper also accompanied us. The muleteer guided my donkey, occasionally giving me a helping hand at fhe steep parts of the road; and, doubtless, that promise too was fulfilled to me in your favorite psalm, mamma, “He shall give his angels charge over thee.” The cool mountain breeze revived my wasted frame; and though* the hour seemed long, still I arrived in safety, and found a delightful cool room and a divan, where I laid me down. We found that the doctor had once lived here, but not now; that Mr. Calhoun was gone to Constantinople. But a native doctor was brought to me, who told me, in Italian, to put a cloth dipped in vinegar on my head, and to take castor oil in the morning. I saw that he did not understand my illness, and therefore felt anxious for another doctor. Now mark the singular way in which God provided for me. A ship of war happened to be in the roads of Smyrna. The officers happened to ride out to this village, and were now in the same inn with us

—the doctor among the rest. He saw me, and immediately ordered me to be shaved and leeches applied, and wet cloths kept on my head all night. AH this was done at first without effect; but toward morning the fever abated, and I slept quietly. The native doctor came in the morning, and was surprised to find a shaved patient. We explained all to him, and he bade adieu. I forgot to mention that the same night we came out, a Mr. Hanson found me out, uncle of Miss Urmston, and told me of her being at our house, and now at R. He offered any kindness in his power. Mr. Lewis, the English chaplain, also came, and insisted on my coming to his house the next day. The doctor of the corvette saw me in the morning, and sent me a perspiring medicine. I was better nearly all day.

Friday, lst August, — In the evening I was carried on a sofa to the house of Mr. Lewis, where I have been ever since. Here I found a home indeed; and in Mrs. Lewis one who has nursed me like a mother. I cannot tell you how wonderful it has appeared to me that God should have led me by the hand to this family, the only one perhaps in Smyrna where I could find such kindness and care. They are both delightful Christians. They have 3 children and one adopted daughter, a young Syrian. They insisted on Andrew Bonar and Mr. Caiman also living with them. The house is pleasantly situated, with a nice garden — from which I used to get sweet flowers brought to me every evening. On Saturday I had another attack of the fever. The best doctor of the place had called on the Friday, Dr. Wood. He could not attend me, his wife being ill, but recommended the native doctor, Dracopoli. He has treated me remarkably well. That was my last day of the fever. He says it is a fever of this country. Febre perniciosa, he calls it. Every day I have been gaining strength. I cannot tell you how I have been cared for by the truly good people of this family. Every morning I get my head bathed with vinegar and water. My voice has quite returned. I have been two Sundays at church. I walked out every evening for the last fortnight — and to-day (24th Aug.) I have ridden into Smyrna with my kind friends to sail for Constantinople at 5 this evening. I am now at their* house in town, and after a hearty dinner, have sat down to finish this. Eliza’s letter, I fear, I must leave unfinished, as I have not much time.

Andrew and Mr. Caiman went to Constantinople last Saturday, to spend the past week in inquiries there. It is only 30 hours’ sail, over a delightful sea and in a splendid steamboat — the captain an Englishman. Lord Rokeby and Mr. Littleton, both of whom we met in Palestine, are also passengers. On Monday morning Andrew is to come out to the steamer; and at 12 same day we sail for the Danube. We reach Galatz in 60 hours. I caiyiot tell you all the kind things which the Lewises have provided to go with me. We have a quarantine of 7 or 10 days at Galatz; thence lo Jassy, we go in 2 days and a half; from thence to Brody, and thence to Warsaw. Do send letters to Warsaw, where we may be in 4 or 5 weeks, if the Lord prosper us. “The way of a man is not in himself.” ‘* It is not in man that walketh to direct his steps.” God has chastened me sore, but not given me over unto death. I have conducted family prayers 3 times. My heart troubles me very little. I suppose it will beat on all my life; but I have a good hope that if it please Grod to return me to my flock, it will not hinder me from my duty. I am still a little deaf in one ear. Could you find the name of the German aurist whom Dr. Duncan consulted, and write me his address? I would go and consult him as we pass through Germany. Warsaw, Posen, Berlin, Hamburgh, seem to be in our line. Do lay all this to h’eart. You see how easily I might have been gone — how God has spared me to you. Oh! that you may be all drawn by Ilis mercies to take him for a Father — as He is to all who are washed in the blood of his Son. I have no greater desire on earth than that all of you may be saved. Kind love to dear Willie. I am glad he is better. May God restore him to us all. Kind remembrance to Doctor Russell and all friends. — Your afiec- tionate son,

RoBT. Murray M’Cheyne.

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