To His Father and Mother (Breslau)
Breslau, nth OcL, 1839. My DEAli Father and Mother, — I hasten to take a little time off our clay’s residence here to write you. I wrote you last from Tarnapol in Galician Poland; you will easily observe, by the map, how many hundred miles we have travelled since, and all in perfect safety, so that we are all well and happy. How much reason have we to thank our heavenly Guide! My only care is to hear from you that you are well, and that my people are still prospering. It is long, indeed, since we heard from Scotland. The last letter from you, which I received, was dated 8th June; and Andrew Bonar’s nearly the same. However, it does no good to be anxious, and I shall therefore not be afraid of evil tidings, but have my heart fixed, trusting in the Lord. I am sure you will be glad.
mamma, to know that we have bid adieu to Catholic countries, and that we now breathe the fresh air of Protestant .Prussia. It has been quite a relief to us. Travelling in Austria is very dangerous; and especially in those barbarous parts where we have been. The people scarcely look upon lying*, theft, murder, adultery, as crimes at all and therefore, you are far from safe in the hands of thcf Poles. But we were’travelliug on a good errand, and we were abundantly cared for. And as we almost always staid at Jewish khans, we slept securely.
We left Tarnapol on the 2nd day after I wrote, and, about 10 the same evening, arrived at Brody. A Jew drove us in his briska. It was a fine warm day, like our summer. The country is bare and uninteresting, except woods of oak and birch now and then, or a village. Zaiosk and Potcamin were the names of two we passed through — both mostly Jewish. The latter means “beside the rock;” being built under a rocky eminence-on which stands a beautiful church and convent. We spent 2 days in Brody, a very singular town, being nearly all Jewish. It lies in a vast sandy plain, rather lower than the rest, so that the trees of the eavi-TOiis hide the city entirely. It is well built and clean. There are only 3 churches and 150 synagogues — a great contrast to most of these towns. We visited the synagogues, and hospital, and markets — all Jewish. We were <luite amused, standing in their busiest square, to watch the different groups, all in the Jewish dress — the long black gown, very much the same as that which I used to wear, and the high fur cap — the w.omen with their costly head-dress. The head-dress is made of black velvet, and covered with pearls.. Almost every Jewess .wears this constantly.
We had some interesting conversations with Jews on the great object of our mission; and our great desire, as we passed along, was, — Oh I that Brody were in the hands of a better government! Austria will not allow any one in her dominions to change his religion. We soon found out that our movements were all closely watched. On inquiring for our passports at the police office, we were accused of being Jews in disguise. The commissary took out a long letter, and read that on such a night we had joined the Jews in their prayers at Yaglinsky.
We told them that all ministers in our country know Hebrew. **0h! but,” said he,” why did you buy Phylacteries last night ?** This is but one example of the constant system of spying which Austria maintains. At the custom-house, on leaving Brody, we were most rigorously dealt with. All our packages were ransacked one by one, papers aifd books. My desk afforded them matter of deep inquiry — there being sketches and plans, and a handwriting not a little mysterious. The map of my parish arrested their attention, and I thought we should all have been imprisoned for it — for one maintained that it was something Russian — and they are very jealous of that. All our books were taken from us — Hebrew and English Bibles, and all. The Bible is a book forbidden in Austria,*’ they told us. Our sealed letters of introduction were seized, and a long protocol drawn out about them. The end was, that though our carriage was at the dopr, we were detained till next day at 12 — fined for our letters, and our books sealed up and sent to the censor, by him to be sent to us at Cracow. Poor blind Popery! she tries to keep the light entirely away from her; but her plogues shall come in one day. Read the 18th chapter of the Revelation, and you will see her end. I do not know why, but Brody is the only place where they took us for great rich people, and where they attempted to impose upon us at all hands.
We set off on Saturday 5th, at 12 o’clock, apd therefore did not reach Lemberg, as we had hoped, the same evening. Sassow and ZIoozow were the only villages we passed. The country and weather were both pleasant. The Poles have a kind of com they call retsky very good indeed as food. The stubble is of a fine red, which gives the autumn fields a very beautiful appearance. There are some fine forests, but altogether little variety — few rising grounds — few gentlemen’s seats; one or two only the whole way. Crosses and ridiculous images line the road in all directions. They are the mark of the Beast upon this land.
We slept at a lonely Jewish khan called Zopka. The next day, being the Sabbath, we rested there; glad to devote a whole day to quiet meditation far from the world. It was here I met with one of those adventures so common in Poland, and the real danger of which I did not know till afterwards. We had all separated, agreeing to meet at 12, each taking a passage to expound. I had taken Eph. vi., and, leaving the khan, crossed over the fields till I came to a pleasant hillside, about a mile and a half off, but still in sight; a fine wood covered the till further up, but I lay down near the foot under a tree. Two Polish shepherds passed me with their herds; they then came and sat down by me, and we tried to speak to one another, but in vain. The Polish is a fine language, but difficult and unconnected with any other. I took out my watch and saw it was 12, and rose to leave. I had not gone far when they called. I stopped till they came up. They made * signs that I should go with them. I refused. They showed that I must go. I persisted, when they threw themselves in my way. I pushed them aside and ran. I could easily have outstripped them, but did not like to make my heart beat, as a hard race would have done. I therefore stopped, and, with my trusty staff, stood on the defensive. I could not find in my heart to strike them, and so they soon closed upon me, and we had a wrestle together, in which my coat was torn
248 FAMILIAR iiBTTERS*
from top to bottom,. I sat down tired on the ground when they, for what reason I know not, left me, and I proceeded quietly home. I was afterwards told that they wanted to rob me, and that they would not have scrupled in the least to use the knife. It is quite common in Galicia, and we heard many instances of it afterwards. It is only another instance in which God has wonderfully prep served me. Surely I shall live to praise Him!
On Monday morning we set off by 3, and entered the handsome city of Lemberg about 9 the same morning. Here, for the first time, we met with every thing civilized. Pleasant walks under trees. Handsome buildings — and, altogether, a pleasant look about the town. The Jews are very numerous and very degraded. We had a very comfortable inn — fine warm weather, like our summer, and enjoyed all that was to be seen.’ We saw a Jewish burial. One curious ceremony they have is speaking to the dead. The face is uncovered, and all his friends round the grave begin to beg the dead man to forgive them if they have done any thing amiss to him in his last sickness. They tell him to pray for them when he goes to heaven. They just speak to him a& if the dead were listening. There is something very dreadful in it. The mourning women make a singular mockery of grief. We met the Arch-, dukes of Austria the same evening, and gave and received the polite salutation of this country.
The next morning we left for Cracow, about 200 miles, in a Jewish carriage, driven by a Jew with a long beard. He engaged to take us in 4 days. We accomplished this journey in perfect safety — being protected and carried forward by a divine hand. We slept every night for a few hours, and always in a Jewish khan, so that we were saved from many of those unpleassnt adventures which €K)metimes take place in Polish inns. The country is fertile, but far from being interesting. Our first day’s journey was as far as Laskovola, a small village. A simple Jewish family entertained us, and were very kind. Next day we crossed the river Saan, a tributary of the Vistula — passed through Jaroslaw and some other small towns, and slept in the town of Rezow. Next day we passed on through Zenzow, as far as Tarnow.
At mid-day we always dine, that being the Polish hour. That night we slept in a bayloft.
Next day, Friday, by 4, we arrived in Cracow. We felt great joy in passing the frontier, and bidding farewell to Austra. It is a kingdom of darkness and idolatry, and toon will receive the reward of all that give honor to the Beast. We crossed the broad Vistula on a bridge of boats, and were soon established in Knotz*s immense inn. The ancient capital of Poland, and burial-place of the kings, is an interesting town. A fine old castle and cathedral rise over it, as guarding the city. There is a fine poplar walk round and round the town. The whole place bears the stamp of antiquity. One portion, separated from the city by a brook, is inhabited by all the Jews, reckoned about 22,000. No nnbaptized person is allowed to sleep in Cracow. The wickedness of the people is very great. Their idolatry is awful. Lying, stealing, murder, adultery, are little thought of. A student was murdered this time last year, in a quiet place of the town, and 35 stabs were found on his body. The government is, in name, independent — but really under Austria. We called on the Protestant minister — a Lutheran. He was exceedingly kind — his wife was a Jewess. We afterwards found that he is a very worldly clergyman.
On Saturday we found out Mr. Hiscock, the English missionary to the Jews. He and bis wife are truly delightful persons, and we were constantly with them during our stay. We were truly happy together. And they, were quite overjoyed to meet with English Christians in their lonely situation. They seem hardly to know one Christian in the whole place. The Catholics are bitter enemies, and the Protestants hardly less so. He is a man of a very gentb, pleasing spirit, and seems eminently useful to the Jews. We enjoyed the Lord’s Supper together on Sabbath, which I dispensed after our own form. It was sweet to cling together in that holy ordinance in so dark and dead a spot.
On Monday evening we walked out together to Esther’s pool. King Kazime.r loved’ a Jewess named Esther, and married her. For her sake he built the Jewish quarter, calling it by his name. He built a country palace for her, and pleasant gardens beside this pool. Unfortunately, however, she was infected with the disease called Plica polonica an awful malady in the head. She came in before the king with her head uncovered. His love was turned to hatred, and he ordered her to be drowned in this pool — which was done. Tuesday morning, we bade good-bye to Cracow in the Schnell post; and the same evening crossed the Prussian frontier. It became dark at Gleiwitz. We slept comfortably in the carriage; and next evening by 6 were in Breslau. There I began this letter to you, which I will now attempt to iSnish.
Breslau is a fine old Prussian town — capital of the province of Silesia — standing on the Oder. There is a fine old college, which we visited. We saw also some of the schools for which Prussia is so justly famous. We now begin all the comforts of civilized life. At Cracow we parted with our beds which we brought from Constantinople. Now we sleep in the German fashion, beneath a feather bed. Thursday 18th we spent in inquiries about Israel in Silesia. The Jews are quite different now. The long beard is gone, and Polish dress. They are half-ashamed to be called Jews. We spent the evening with a convert, Dr. Newman, and his kind family. Tell Dr. Russell that I have forgot many of his good lessons in German. I wish he was here to interpret sometimes.
Friday 19th, we left for Posen, which we reached next day at 12 o’clock. Nothing can be surer than Prussian travelling. The post is all under government As many as wish to go are sent in large comfortable coaches at an exact rate — very cheap and very quick. Posen we found a very pleasant town, clean and airy, surrounded with a most singular fortification. When finished, it is said it will be the strongest in the world. We could not help wishing that it may never be needed, but may crumble into nothing under the reign of the Prince of Peace. The Jews are about 7000 or 8000. Mr. Belson, the English missionary, has been most kind and friendly. He introduced us to many delightful Germans — some very clever and learned, and what is better,’ believing men. By English, and Latin, and scraps of German, we make our way. On Sabbath we heard a German sermon. The singing is the finest I
S54 FAMftlAB LETTfitd.
erer heard, t discoursed id the evening to a few who understood English, Monday we spent in examining the Jewish school, and in meeting those here who love Israel. All were moat kind and attentive to us. At parting, I was kissed on both cheeks by a major with huge moustachiog, Tuesday 22nd, we left Posen at midnight, in order to be this morning at Storchnest, a small town, where there is a school for Jewish children. Mr, Bel son came with us* We have spent a happy, and I trust, useful day.
We are now at Fraustadt, visrting two missionaries, Mr, Hertmann and Mr* Graff. It is delightful to meet with these men. They have the cause really at heart. To-morrow we visit a school in Leichtensheim, then to Glogau- There we will get the post to Berlin, where we hope to be, if God prosper us, on Thursday evening or Friday morning-We propose staying over Sabbath there. Then 30 hours bring us to Hamburgh and :two days to England. The missionaries are anxious we should wait for the Franckfort fair, on Monday the 28th, when thousands of. Jews assemble from all parts of the world. We have not determined what to do. We rAMtLTAK LETTERS.
25&
are anxious to be home, as the season advaaces. The weather is still very fine, though It begins to be cold. We have lighted the stove for the first Ume to-night. Oh for a Scottish fire! We are all in good health. I have not been so well for many a long day. My heart beats very gently. However, all is in God’s hand, and he will do with me what 19 best, Andrew feels the cold a little, but is looking stout and well. He and the Ger* mans agree well. He Is such an adept at books — they are often confounded* How we long to hear of you all I We have inquired at every post-office* but ia vain< It is very late, and all my comrades are sleeping round me in a qvieer German inn m Fraustadt. Every place we come to witnesses my prayers for your salvation and happiness. I trust soon to be with you, and meet you all in peace. Kind love to you, Eliza, and Willie, and remembrance to all friends. Your ever affectionate son
RofiT. MCJBRA? M’CHEYIffi.