To His Mother (Alexandria)

Alexandria in sight, 3 o’clock, p.m., 1y May, 1839.

My Dear Mother, — begin a letter to you while the prow of our vessel is pointing to the far-extended city of Alexandria. My thermometer is now in the shade, and rather hotter in the cabin, so that we have something of the heat of our Scottish summer. I wrote my father last from Malta — the letter was to go through France. I hope it is now on its way, and may reach you in a few days. Malta is a singularly inter-« esting spot, and I was sorry we had so little. tifhe to see it and its inhabitants. After writing you, Andrew and I rode out of Valetta in a calesh or covered car, the driver running by the side of it the whole way. We went 4 or 5 miles to call on Dr. Peebles’ friend. The roads are in some places singularly steep. The bays, formed by the sea, are clear, calm, and beautiful. Barley was ripening; and the evening sky had a tinge of purple and yellow which I never saw before. 7th May. — We left Malta this morning at 7. I began to think of Major Donald’s story of the Highland sergeant, in the West Indies, saluting his officer every morning with, ‘* Anither het day, your honor.” It is too true in these latitudes. We are now within quarantine, and therefore needed two small boats in getting on board the steamer, that the boatmen may not catch the infection. For your consolation, mamma, we are told that the east was never so free from the plague as it is now. Read the 91st Psalm, and be sure that our heavenly Father will do with us what is best. The Malta steamer was a French one, but not the same we came in. They keep up great style. The sea was as calm as a Highland lake; you never saw any thing so magnificent. We soon left Malta far behind, and when it disappeared, we could look round and round upon a complete circle of bright blue ea, as still and calm as the sea of Galilee when Jesus hushed it to rest. We had several of our old friends on board with us. The Arabic priests had left us at Civita Vecchia to go to Rome; this I was sorry for, as one of them got very intimate with me, as intimate as our limited knowledge of language would admit. He took me aside once to ask me very gravely if I had a wife. I told him no, but that I was freely allowed to marry. He told me he was a Monaco, and was not allowed to marry. I told him the Bible said otherwise. The Tripoli bishop could not comprehend how we were all the bishops we have in our country; he measured me over and over with his eye, and asked my age. He accepted an Italian New Testament. We lost also our nuns, and most of our monks; still our Greek friend accompanied us, one American, and several French gentlemen. The calm sea rendered all very pleasant, and gave us a fine opportunity to study our books. The Greek taught us to read Greek in the modern way, and sang us many of their patriotic songs.

lOth May. — This morning we came in sight of Cape Gallo, the first cape of the Morea. We crossed the Gulf of Coron, and when I came up we were opposite Cape Matapan. You may be sure we looked with deepest interest upon the hills of Greece, and stirred up all our classic remembrances. The Greek was quite enthusiastic in praise of his native land. Eternal snow was resting on some of its summits. We crossed the Gulf of Laconia, and thought of Spartan glory. We passed between Cythera and Cape Mal6a, with its high rude mountains. Through my glass I descried several hanging villages with terraced fields and gardens running up the sides of the bleak mountains. Leaving Cythera and the Morea far behind, we sailed norths east till Spezzia and Hydra appeared in view far to the north — the one like North Berwick law, the other like the Bass. We came towards Melos and Antimelos, and looking back saw the sun go down gloriously over Falconera, a small rocky islet. The iEgean sea was so called from the Greek word, signifying a goat, because the islands start up just like goats on every hand. The islands are also called Cyclades, being all in a circle or heap. It was a calm and lovely sea below, and a glorious spotted sky above. When we rested for the night, Seriphos was just coming in sight.

Syra llth May. — At 2 in the morning we anchored in the Bay of Syra, a beautiful island and Greek town. We were rowed ashore by a fierce-looking Greek in his wide trowsers and red cap. We breakfasted in the inn, or rather, as it was expressed on the sign, xsvonavdoxeior. We were treated with Grecian honey. After breakfast we wandered through the bazaar; the shops are all open, no window, but all door. We were heartily stared at, and often laughed at; indeed you cannot imagine any thing more ridiculous than our Frank dress, compared with the beautiful attire of the meanest Greek. There is something elegant about the whole cast of their dress. The soldiers’ dress is very like that of our Highlanders, only the kilt is beautiful white cotton. We looked through three shops with books, and were glad to find the Greek Bible for sale, counterbalanced by two «of Sir Walter’s novels. We visited the school maintained here by the Church of England Missionary Society — an admirable institution; 600 Greek children, boys and girls, were all busy, some reading Xenophon in old Greek, and translating it into modern; the Bible read every day. Such fine-eyed children you never saw. We afterwards called for the missionary, a German, Mr. Hildner; he and his wife and three children, and a Miss Wilcox, received us kindly. We were sorry that we could stay but a short time. At 12 we embarked in another French steamer for Alexandria.

Leaving Syra we sailed south-east, among the beautiful islands famed in Homer’s song. If you follow us on the map you will have some idea of the scene; it reminds me exactly of sailing among our own Western Islands. At one time I counted twelve islands all in sight; Syra; Eubcea far in the distance; Andros nearer; still* nearer Delos, Apollo’s island; and Mycone; far in the east, Icaria; then, in front of us, Naxos with its snow-white town; Paros and Antiparos, where the finest white marble used to be found. Xiphos, and two others behind, towards the west. We gazed and gazed, be-, tween Icaria and Naxos, to see if our eye could reach Patmos, where John was so highly favored of God. We were within sight of it, and often thought we did see it, but whether or no we could not settle. It was sweet to be near so blessed a spot We had four Jews, two Turks, and three Greeks on board, all in eastern costume, and one of the Turks had his wife with him, veiled all but the eyeSf with her parasol in one hand and a kpng hookah in the other, which she smoked on deck. The Jews the first day were very friendly; they too were going to Jerusalem for the first time. “We are brethren,” said Andrew in HebreV, “as Jacob and Laban.” They all smiled assent. Noi quaU tro e vol quattro. We showed them our Hebrew books, and many pictures of Jewish antiquities, with which they were highly entertained. One picture of Paul preaching in chains, they could not comprehend. Andrew read the account of it in the Italian New Testament, and they listened with all gravity; If you look at Acts xxii. 1 — ^22, you will see how appropriate the passage was. It would have amused you to have seen the deputation ail squatting, after the eastern method, on the deck, opposite to the four Jews; the Greeks and others looking on. We sailed between Naxos and Paros, and then night came down. Crete, I2th May. — The Sabbath. We got up early to see Crete. We sailed down the one end of it; passed Salmone, pointing directly for Alexandria. Ida, in the centre of the island, towered high, clothed with snow.

We read and thought of Paul, Acts xxvii., and read over the Epistle to Titus with no small interest. The sea was very rough all this day, — a clear sky and bright sun above. All along I have been mercifully preserved in rough weather. I have never felt sick, and always better than on shore. I was the only laborer among the Jews this day. Read over Zech. xii. and Jer. xxiii. with them. We had also a curious conversation with the doctor of the ship, a young Frenchman. I gave him my French Bible before leaving. We are not sure whether this be the communion Sabbath in Edinburgh. Grace be with you all.

Alexandria, I2th May. — Smoother and smoother as we approach Africa. At 2 o’clock we descried the ships of war in the Roads of Alexandria. At 4 we cast anchor among them — twelve ships of the line, all completely furnished for war. The white costume of the marines* contrasted with their brown legs and faces, their red belts and glancing muskets, gave a terrific effect to these floating batteries. We are told that there is no fear of war; the accounts from Constantinople are much more pacific. The

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Pacha is determined to carry all before him; and no doubt is entertained, that if it should really come to war, he will carry his arms to the walls of Constantinople, or Stamboul, as they call it here. You cannot imagine the landing at Alexandria; it baiSes all description — boys with donkeys, men with camels, wild-looking porters, Greeks and Turks, all roaring in sonorous Arabic, all eager to be at ourselves and our luggage. By the help of Mr. Waghom’s agent, who laid about him with his stick, we got our luggage on human backs and ourselves on donkeys, and away we went full gallop through the narrow streets of Alexandria. Women with their £ices covered all but the eyes, others cax’^ lying their little children astride on their shoulders, fakirs, soldiers, children — all had to rush out of our way; and many a contemjJative Turk took his hookah from, his mouth to see what strange figures hurried by. We got rest and quiet in our hotel, and read over many of the Bible descriptions of Egypt. The Pacha is in the town. Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown.’’ One case of plague has occurred this day, do that the city is laid under quarantine. Many

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of the board of health are convinced that it is not a case of plague; still the quarantine declaration has been made.

I4th May. — To-day we called on the consul, Mr. Larkins, on Colonel Campbell, the resident, and on several other persons; many are very kind to us. If we leave this by sea for any port in Syria, we must ride quarantine for many days; but the consul has assured us, that if we proceed by land we shall be there before the land quarantine is established. We have therefore been procuring two tents, a carpet each to lie on, and a quilt to wrap ourselves in; we are to have two servants and a great many asses and drivers; and on Thursday morning by the earliest dawn we begin our march through the desert. We ride on donkeys the whole way — fine, gentle, sure-footed creatures they are. We are told that it is not nearly so hot as we imagined it to be. The hours of march are from 4 to 10 a.m. and 6 to 10 evening. The route is first to Rosetta by land, one day’s journey, then straight on to Damietta. crossing Lake Menzaleh; we proceed to El Arishf and enter Syria by Gaza and Hebron. We cast all our care upon Him who careth

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for US. Not the slightest danger is apprehended on the road, and it is constantly travelled. I have a good hope that the exercise will be highly beneficial to me. I find con* stant repose does not do me good. We expect to be at Damietta in 3 days» at Jerusalem in 10 days, more or less; only we shall take time. We are all well; thus far God has done great things for us, and he is faithful who will preserve us from all true evil. Mr. and Mrs. Freemantle travelled in the desert many days, and lived under tent for months. An English clergyman and his lady have just returned from doing the same. I know you will be anxious, my dear mother, but you must just be still, and know that God is God. I had some palpitations last night again, owing to my drinking pure green tea by mistake, which kept me from sleeping; but to-day it is better again. We sleep below mosquito curtains, not a very agreeable prison-house. We have been inquiring after the Jews of Alexandria and Cairo. We are very sorry that we cannot visit Cairo, the capital of this wonderful country. However, our way seems clearly pointed out by our heavenly Guide — our pillar cloud.

Still we have heard nothing from home, publicly or privately. I must just commit you all to Him who is never one moment absent from you. We find it difficult to keep up a constant course of reading and study; still it is very needful, even to make our journey interesting, much more to make it profitable. Lord Lindsay’s dragoman has been offermg himself, but he cannot speak English. This is the Assembly week; we shall be in the desert the day the Assembly meets. Our hearts tremble for the ark of God; may He that dwells between the Cherubim shine forth upon them! My bed for the desert will make a capital rug when I get home. We have got nice pillows also, which Jacob had not when he slept at Bethel. May God appear to us as he did to him. Remember me most kindly to all dear friends. I often think on the Monday evenings, that we will not be forgotten in Mr. Moody’s sessionroom; and on the Tuesday and Thursday eveningii, and Sabbaths, that we will be re-” membered by my own dear flock. All this is a sweet comfort, and lifts up our hands when they hang down. I do trust that our mission is to be the beginning of good things for Israel. The Jews that are in earnest evidently expect the Messiah very soon. There is an unaccountable impression upon them that he will come very soon. Several thousand Jews in Poland have asked leave of the Emperor to go to Canaan for two years; and, if Messiah does not come in that time, they promise to become Christians. All this shows that the dry bones are stirred. Good-bye. May God watch over you, and fill you with all peace and joy in believing. I am your affectionate son,

RoBT. Murray M*Cheyne.

I5th May. — All well.
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