Prospects Become Darker
Prospects become darker — A trying crisis — Purposes overruled — Seasons changed — Scarcity of rain accounted for — Indications of former luxuriance — Diminution of fountains - — The north winds — Instinct of animals — Atmospheric phenomena — Description of thunder storms — -Thunder without clouds — Bechuana notions of thunder — The chapel clock.
Although we were thus delivered from the machinations of one who, as we afterwards learned, was an active, though covert enemy to our influence among the people, and though his removal afforded us the sincerest gratification, the public mind was opposed to our residence in the country. Every change appeared for the worse; and as we proceeded with our work, our prospects became darker than ever. The Bushmen had been very troublesome in taking cattle and killing the watchers. We could not approve of the Bechuana system of vengeance and extirpation, which, instead of diminishing the evil, appeared only to add fuel to the fire of their fierce passions. We were suspected of befriending that hapless race of beings, from charging our men, who sometimes went to assist in retaking cattle, on no account to shoot the Bushmen. It was in vain we appealed to the injunctions of Jesus, our Lord and master: every argument of that description was always met with vehemently savage vociferations of Maka hela,” lies only. They candidly acknowledged that we wronged no man, and that we had no wish to inflict an injury on a single individual; but they would with equal candour tell us, that we were the cause of all the drought; and we have been more than once asked if we were not afraid of lying down in our beds, lest we and our reed-built houses should be burned to ashes before morning.
Every thing wrong done by a Griqua while hunting in the country, was thrown in our teeth; and if any one of the natives felt himself aggrieved during a visit to that people, we were told that we ought to have pre¬ vented it. The improper conduct of some professors who came to hunt and barter, as iii the first instance when the mission was commenced, was held up to us as the fruits of the Gospel; and they would tell us to go to certain people, and make them good, before attempting the renovation of the Bechuana nation. We became inured to such threatening reproaches and scorn; but many were the melancholy hours we spent in gloomy forebodings. Much gratitude is, however, due to Him who “restraineth his rough wind in the day of his east wind,” that we were never allowed to suspect that they would do us any personal violence.
The following fact will illustrate, in some measure, the position in which Ave stood with the people, who, by this time, were chafed in spirit by the severe drought, and mortified to the highest degree to see all their boasted powers vanish like a vapour on the mountain’s brow. One day, about noon, a chief man, and a dozen of his attendants, came and seated
themselves under the shadow of a large tree, near my house. A secret council had been held, as is usual, in the field, under pretence of a hunt, and the present party was a deputation to apprise us of the results. I happened at that moment to be engaged in repairing my wagon near at hand. Being informed that some¬ thing of importance was to be communicated, Mr. Hamilton was called. We stood patiently to hear the message, being always ready to face the worst. The principal speaker informed us, that it was the determination of the chiefs of the people that we should leave the country; and referring to our disregard of threatenings, added what was tantamount to the assurance that measures of a violent kind would be re¬ sorted to, to carry their resolutions into effect, in case of our disobeying the order. While the chief was speaking, he stood in a rather imposing, I could not say threatening attitude, quivering his spear in his right hand. Mrs. M. was at the door of our cottage, with the babe in her arms, watching the crisis, for such it was. We replied, ‘‘We have indeed felt most reluctant to leave, and are now more than ever resolved to abide by our post. We pity you, for you know not what you do; we have suffered, it is true; and He whose servants we are has directed us in His word, ‘ when they persecute you in one city, flee ye to another hut although we have suffered, we do not consider all that has been done to us by the people amounts to persecution; we are prepared to expect it from such as know no better. If you are resolved to rid yourselves of us, you must resort to stronger measures, for our hearts are with you. You may shd pur blood or burn us out. We know you will not touch our wives and children. Then shall they who sent us know, and God who now sees and hears what we do, shall know, that we have been persecuted indeed.” At these words the chief man looked at his companions, remarking, with a significant shake of the head, “These men must have ten lives, wdien they are so fearless of death; there must be something in immortality.” The meeting broke up, and they left us, no doubt fully impressed with the idea that we were impracticable men.
We could not help feeling deeply thankful for the turn this short but solemn interview had takem The charge brought against us by the rain-maker was, by every passing cloud and whistling blast from the torrid zone brought fresh to their minds; and they thought that, having teachers of strange doctrines among them, such as their forefathers never knew, the country would be burned up. They were wont to tell us of the floods of ancient times, the incessant showers which clothed the very rocks with verdure, and the giant trees and forests which once studded the brows of the Hamhana hills and neighbouring plains. They boasted of the Kuruman and other rivers, with their impassable torrents, in which the hippopotami played, while the lowing herds walked to their necks in grass, filling their maJaihas (milk sacks) with milk, making every heart to sing for joy. It was in vain that we endeavoured to convince them that the dry seasons had commenced at a period long anterior to the arrival of the missionaries. Independent of this fact being handed down by their forefathers, they had before their eyes the fragments of more fruitful years in the immense
number of stumps and roots of enormous trunks of acacia giraffe, when now scarcely one is to be seen raising its stately head above the shrubs; while the sloping sides of hills, and the ancient beds of rivers, plainly evinced that they were denuded of the herbage which once clothed their surface. Indeed, the whole country north of the Orange River lying east of the Kalagare desert, presented to the eye of an European something like an old neglected garden or field. As, however, the natives never philosophized on atmospheric changes, and the probable causes of the failure of the plenteous years they were not likely to be convinced such could depend on any thing done by man, even though they were credulous enough to believe that their rain-makers could charm or frighten the clouds into showers, or that our faces or prayers could prevent their descending.
When reference has been made to certain trees, especially the Milkwood, {sideroxylum inerme,) and a few shrubs, which they prohibit being touched with a knife or an axe when the rain is expected, I have embraced the opportunity of trying to convince the more intelligent, that they themselves were the active agents of bringing about an entire change of atmosphere. The Bechuanas, especially the Batlapis and the neighbouring tribes, are a nation of levellers — not reducing hills to comparative plains, for the sake of building their towns, but cutting down every species of timber, without regard to scenery or economy. Houses are chiefly composed of small timber, and their fences of branches and shrubs. Thus when they fix on a site for a town, their first consideration is to be as near a thicket as possible. The whole is presently levelled, leaving only a few trees, one in each great man’s fold, to atford shelter from the heat, and under which the men. work and recline.
The ground to be occupied for cultivation is the next object of attention; the large trees, being too hard for their iron axes, they burn them down by keeping up a tire at the root. These supply them with branches for fences, while the sparrows, so destructive to their grain, are thus deprived of an asylum. These fences, as well as those in the towns, require constant repairs, and indeed the former must be renewed every year, and by this means the country for many miles around becomes entirely cleared of timber; while in the more sequestered spots, where they have their out-posts, the same work of destruction goes on. Thus, of whole forests, where the girafte and elephant were wont to seek their daily food, nothing remains.
When the natives remove from that district, which may he after only a few years, the minor species of the acacia soon grows, but the acacia giraffe requires an age to become a tree, and many ages must pass before they attain the dimensions of their predecessors. The wood, when old, is dark red, rough grained, and exceedingly hard and heavy; after being dried for years, when thrown into the water it sinks like lead. In the course of my journeys I have met with trunks of enormous size, which, if the time were calculated necessary for their growth, as well as their decay, one might be led to conclude that they sprung up immediately after the flood, if not before it. The natives have also the yearly custom of burning the dry grass, which on some occasions destroys shrubs and trees even to the very summit of the mountains.
To this system of extermination may be attributed the long succession of dry seasons. “The felling of forests has been attended in many countries by a diminution of rain, as in Barbadoes and Jamaica.”^ For in tropical countries, where the quantity of aqueous vapour in the atmosphere is great, but where, on the other hand, the direct rays of the sun are most powerful, any impediment to the free circulation of air, or any screen which shades the earth from the solar rays, becomes a source of humidity; and whenever dampness or cold has begun to be generated by such causes, the condensation of vapour continues. The leaves, moreover, of all plants are alembics, and some of those in the torrid zone have the remarkable property of distilling water, thus contributing to prevent the earth from being parched up.”f This was a philosophy which the more acute thinkers among the people could partially comprehend, though they could not believe. I do not, however, despair of eventually seeing the whole of the population, some of whom are now commencing the building of stone fences and brick houses, so fully satisfied on this point that they will find it for their own interest, as well as contributing to the beauty of the country, to encourage the growth of timber, particularly as it is only such as is indigenous which can grow to any extent. To the same cause may be traced the diminution of fountains, and the entire failure of some which formerly afforded a copious supply, such as Griqua Town, Campbell, and a great number of others which might be mentioned; and which, according to the established theory of springs, must be supplied by melted snow, rain,
Phil. Trans, vol, ii. p, 294, -f Lyell’s Prin. Geo. dew, and vapours condensed. It lias been remarked, that since the accidental destruction of whole plains of the Olea similis (wild olive) by fire, near Griqua Town, as well as the diminishing of large shrubs on the neighbouring heights, a gradual decrease of rain has succeeded in that region, and thus the subterranean caverns found to serve as reservoirs in the bowels of the earth cease to be supplied, especially when there are no lofty mountains to pierce the clouds, or arrest and condense vapours which float in the atmosphere.
The climate in the countries from the borders of the Colony to 25° north latitude, and to 24° east longitude, is very similar. The winds which prevail, especially in the higher regions, are from the west and north-west. Cold, withering winds frequently blow from the south during the winter months, in which rain rarely falls, and never with a south wind. In spring, (the end of August,) the north gales commence, and blow daily, with great violence, from about 10 A. M., to nearly sunset, when a still, serene night succeeds. During the prevalence of these winds, which continue till November, when the air becomes modified by thunder storms, the atmosphere appears as if dense with smoke, reaching as high as the clouds; this appearance is occasioned by the light particles of dust brought from the sandy plains of the Kalagare desert, which is so exquisitely fine, that it penetrates seams and cracks which are almost impervious to water. These winds may, with great propriety, he styled sandy monsoons. They are so dry, as to affect the skin very disagreeably; and the process of exsiccation goes on rapidly, producing in the
human frame extreme languor, and febrile symptoms, especially with those of a delicate constitution, who, though the morning may be perfectly serene, have in themselves indications of approaching wind for hours before it rises. Towards the latter end of the windy season, the thirsty cattle may frequently he seen turn¬ ing their heads northward to snulF the aqueous blast, as their instinctive powers catch the scent of the green herbage which is brought from the tropical regions. When this is the case, there is reason to hope that clouds will soon make their appearance from the opposite quarter. The wind is rarely from the east; and when it is, we expect rain, which will sometimes continue for days, and is what we denominate land-rains, being without thunder. The instinct of cattle under these circumstances is verv remarkable, and sometimes leads to serious consequences. I have known these animals, after having travelled nearly 200 miles from their country, when passing through one more sterile and dry, eagerly snuff the odoriferous gale blowing from the luxuriant plains they had left, and start off in a straight line to the place from which they had come.
Many years previous to my sojourn in Namaqualand, Africaner lost the greater part of his cattle from this cause. One evening a strong wind commenced blowing from the north; it smelt of green grass, as the natives expressed it. The cattle, not being in folds, started off after dark. The circumstance being unprecedented, it was supposed they had merely wandered out to the common where they were accustomed to graze; but it was found, alter much search, that some thousands of cattle had directed their course to the north. A few were recovered, but the majority escaped to the Damara country, after having been pursued hundreds of miles. This instinct directs the migrations of the antelope and the wild ass used to the wilderness, that snutfeth up the wind at her plea¬ sure, Jer. ii. 24. These winds, I have learned from inquiry, come from within the tropics, where rain has fallen, and the cool air thereby produced, rushes southward over the plains, tilling up the space caused by the I’arefaction of the air, owing to the approach of the sun to the tropic of Capricorn. The more boisterous these winds are, the more reason we have to expect rain. They cannot extend to any great height, as the thunder storms which follow, and which often commence with a small cloud in the opposite direction, increasing into mountains of snow, with a tinge of yellow, pursue an opposite course. These are preceded by a dead stillness, which continues till the tornado bursts upon us with awful violence, and the clouds have discharged their watery treasures. In such a case there are almost always two strata of clouds, I’requently moving in opposite directions. The higher mountain-like masses, with their edges exactly defined, going one way, while the feelers, or loose misty vapour beneath, convulsed, and rolling in fearful velocity, are going another; while the peals of thunder are such as to make the very earth tremble. The lightning is of three descriptions, one kind passing from cloud to cloud; this is seldom accompanied with any rain. Another kind is the forked, which may be seen passing through a cloud, and striking the earth; this is considered the most dangerous. The most common, not always
accompanied by rain, is what we are in the habit of calling stream or chain-lightning. This appears to rise from the earth in figures of various shapes, crooked, zigzag, and oblique; and sometimes like a water¬ spout at sea: it continues several seconds, while the observer can distinctly see it dissolve in pieces like a broken chain. The perpetual roar of awful thunder on these occasions may be conceived, when twenty or more of these flashes may be counted in one minute. The lightning may also be seen passing upwards through the dense mass of vapour, and branching out like the limbs of a naked tree in the blue y above. In such storms the rain frequently falls in torrents, and runs off very rapidly, not moistening the earth, except in sandy plains, more than six inches deep.
These storms are frequently very destructive, though not attended with that loss of life common in more populous countries. People are killed, especially such as take refuge under trees; houses are struck, when, in general, some, if not all, the inmates perish. Game are frequently killed by it, and I have known about fifty head of cattle levelled on the spot. Though persons do become so far accustomed to these fearful displays of Almighty power as even to long for them, because they bring rain, yet they frequently produce great terror, especially among the lower orders of the animal creation. The antelopes flee in consternation; and I have had opportunities of observing the Balala (poor Bechuanas) start off early on the morning following such a storm, in quest of the young which have been cast through terror; thus illustrating the words of the Psalmist, as rendered in our English translation, ‘‘ The voice of the Lord causcth the liincls to calve, or somewhat clearer, as in the Dutch, ‘‘ cast their young.”
While on the subject of thunder, it may he proper to observe, that we have in those latitudes what the natives call senimairi, (serumaeeree,) which is thunder without clouds. I have frequently heard it during my long abode in the country, and once in a position where no clouds could be seen for fifty or sixty miles round, even on the most distant horizon, for many weeks; indeed it may be said to be heard only when there are no clouds whatever to be seen. When it does occur, which is not often, it is after the sun has passed the meridian, and when the day is hottest, with little or no wind. The explosion appears to be in the clear hlue sky; and though over our heads, the intonations are soft, and nothing like lightning is to be seen.
Among the varieties of meteorological phenomena, it might be here noticed, that explosions of substances occasionally take place, which generally strike awe into the heathen, who are afraid of signs in the heavens. These occur after dry and sultry days. I never met, however, with a Mochuana who had seen or heard of the fall of aerolites. The natives never appeared to have formed any idea of the causes which produce the phenomena of the heavens, such as eclipses. The vague, though universal notion prevails, when the moon is eclipsed, that a great chief has died. They are directed by the position of certain stars in the heavens, that the time has arrived, in the revolving year, when particular roots can be dug up for use, or when they may
* Psalm xxix. 9.
commence their labours of the field. This is their likhakologo, (turnings or revolvings,) or what we should call the spring time of the year. The Pleiades they call selemela, which may be translated, cultivator, or the precursor of agriculture, from lemela, the relative verb to cultivate for and se, a pronominal prefix, distinguishing them as the actors. Thus, when this constellation assumes a certain position in the heavens, it is the signal to commence cultivating their fields and gardens. f Thunder they supposed to be caused by a certain bird, which may be seen soaring very high during the storm, and which appeared to the natives as if it nestled among the forked lightnings. Some of these birds are not unfrequently killed, and their having been seen to descend to the earth may have given rise to this ludicrous notion. I have never had an opportunity of examining this bird, but I presume it belongs to the vulture species.
Leaving these subjects for the present, we turn again to the mission, which, while it suffered much from the presence of the rain-maker, his absence did not appear to have produced any change on the
* This peculiarity in the Sechuana language will be explained in the chapter on its character.
Dr. Thomas Winterbottom, in his account of the native Africans in the neighbourhood of Sierra Leone, observes, in remarkable unison with this statement, that “the proper time for preparing the plantations is shown by the particular situation in the heavens of the Pleiades, called by the Bulloms, awarrang.” In fact this notion prevails in almost all the nations of the interior of Africa with which we are acquainted, and forcibly illustrates the import of the interrogation, “Canstthou bind the sweet influences of Pleiades (spring)?” minds of the natives, except that of mortification. We could not help being sincerely thankful that there was no public prohibition made against at¬ tendance on divine worship; therefore, generally, a few came, though sometimes only such as were our dependents. A very large majority had never entered the chapel, being threatened by their superiors if they did: and others would not for their lives have set a foot within the threshold. At an early period, when the place of worship was built, a wooden Dutch clock had been fixed upon the wall, for the purpose of regulating the hours of worship. Immediately above the dial was a small box, in which were a couple of lilliputian soldiers, who strutted out when the clock struck. Conrad Buys and others had poisoned the minds of some of the leading men with the idea that the missionaries were only the precursors of the Government, who would soon follow in their train, and make soldiers of every one of them. The little images in the clock were soon magnified into Goliaths, and the place of worship looked upon as an eintlu ea kholego, a house of bondage. It was necessary to take down the fairy-looking strangers, and cut a piece off their painted bodies, to convince the affrighted natives that the objects of their alarm were only bits of coloured wood. Many, however, thought themselves too wise to be thus easily deceived. Though perfectly convinced of the egregious folly of believing that the little liseto, “carved ones,” would one day seize them by the throat in the sanctuary, they nevertheless continued to suspect, that the motives of the missionary were anything but disinterested.