Moselekatse's Ambassadors

Moselekatse’s ambassadors — Their astonishment — Danger attend¬ ing their return — The author accompanies them — Their reception by Mahura — A lion attacks the oxen — Arrive at the Bahurutsi — Country and game — The inhabited tree — Singular expedient — The lions and the oven — An urgent appeal — Indications of former prosperity — Traces of great industry — The ravages of war — An interesting recital — Heavy rains — Meet a hunting party — Savage pomp — Moselekatse afraid — Warriors described — A grand ball.

In the latter end of the year 1829, two traders journeyed into the interior for the purpose of shooting elephants, and to barter. Hearing at the Bahurutsi that a tribe possessing much cattle lived at some distance eastward, they proceeded thither, and were received in a friendly manner by Moselekatse, the king of that division of Zoolus called Abaka Zoolus, or more generally Matabele. He, however, only allowed them to approach one of his cattle outposts on horseback. Prior to this visit this tribe had had some intercourse with the Bahurutsi, by whom they obtained partial information respecting white people, and particularly those on the Kuruman station, with whom they were best acquainted. During the time

* He calls himself Moselekatse, sounding the e as in emit, but is also called Umselekas, or Umsiligas, by the Kafir and Zoolu tribes. of Ills residence on the Lekua and other sources of the Orange River, his people had been attacked by the Bergenaars, but as these were only Griquas and Corannas, he was in comparative ignorance of the characters and dispositions of the whites. When these traders returned, Moselekatse sent with them two of his lintuna, or chief men, for the purpose of obtaining a more particular knowledge of his white neighbours; charging them particularly to make themselves acquainted with the manners and instructions of the Kuruman teachers. On their arrival they were astonished beyond measure with every thing they saw, and as they, according to the custom of their nation, were in a state of nudity, their appearance very much shocked the comparatively delicate feelings of the Bechuanas, barbarians as they were. The visitors, however, most cheerfully acquiesced in our suggestions, for the sake of decency and propriety. They were shown every mark of attention, which was received with a politeness to which we had been entirely unaccustomed among the Bechuanas, which convinced us that true politeness was not confined to birth or civilization, and pointed out to us that our visitors were the nobles of the nation to which they belonged. Every thing calculated to interest was exhibited to them. Our houses, the walls of our folds and gardens, the water ditch conveying a large stream out of the bed of the river, and the smith’s forge, filled them with admiration and astonishment, which they expressed not in the wild gestures generally made by the mere plebeian, but by the utmost gravity and profound veneration, as well as the most respectful demeanour. “You are men.

we are but children,” said one; while the other observed, Moselekatse must be taught all these things.” When standing in the hall of our house, looking at the strange furniture of a civilized abode, the eye of one caught a small looking-glass, on which he gazed with admiration. Mrs. M. handed him one which was considerably larger; he looked intensely at his reflected countenance, and never having seen it before, supposed it was that of one of his attendants on the other side; he very abruptly put his hand behind it, telling him to be gone, but looking again at the same face, he cautiously turned it, and seeing nothing, he returned the glass with great gravity to Mrs. M., saying that he could not trust it.

Nothing appeared to strike them so forcibly as the public worship in our chapel. They saw men like themselves meet together with great decorum; mothers hushing their babes, or hastily retiring if they made any noise, and the elder children sitting perfectly silent. When the missionary ascended the pulpit, they listened to the hymn sung, and though, from their ignorance of the Bechuana language, they could not understand all that was said, they were convinced that something very serious was the subject of the address. The order and fervour which pervaded all parts of the service, bewildered their minds, which, from their infancy, had been accustomed to observe every public meeting introduced and characterized by the hoarse war-song and displays of chivalry. They were inquisitive about every thing, and were surprised to find that the hymns we sung were not war songs, expressive of the wild reveries which the associations of music brought to their minds. We embraced every opportunity of telling them the simple truths of the Gospel, and laboured to impress on their minds the blessings of peace.

These men had intended to visit the white man’s country, the Colony, hut this was found inconvenient, and involved considerable difficulty as to how they were to be returned in safety. Accordingly, a Hottentot, who had accompanied the traders as a wagon-driver, was appointed by them to reconduct our visitors from our station to their own land. To this arrangement the latter made some objections, and it was well, for the character of the man was such as to make him a fit tool for so cruel a monarch as Moselekatse was reported to be. While this subject was under consideration, ’Umbate and his companion entered my house, with dejected looks, and requested a private interview; he informed me that reports had reached his ear, that the Bechuana tribes, through which they had to pass on the road homeward, were meditating their destruction. Of this we had had our suspicions, and only wished these noble visitors had not been brought to a missionary station, for we could not pretend to defend them by a superior force. Mr. Hamilton, Mrs. M., and I, met again and again to deliberate on the subject, but we were at our wits’ end. We took into consideration the warlike character, and almost overwhelming power of the Matahele, who had already destroyed many powerful tribes, and saturated the Bakone hills and plains with blood, following up the destruction commenced by the Mantatees. We could not help almost trembling at the possible consequences of the ambassadors of such a power being butchered on the road. Having ma-THE AUTHOR ACCOMPANIES THEM.

turely considered the subject, and implored Divine direction, it was resolved that I should take charge of them as far as the Bahurutsi countrv, from which they could proceed without danger to their own land and people. The strangers most gratefully accepted of this proposal, their eyes glistening with delight. A wagon was hired, in addition to my own, for their conveyance. Though these men were, strictly speaking, savages, we were convinced that they were persons of influence and authority under their own sovereign, by the simple dignity of their deportment, and their own entire silence on the subject. The delightful results of the Gospel of love and good-will to all men, were strikingly exhibited on our departure. The believers, and many others on the station, brought little presents to offer to the strangers, as well as some for their master, Moselekatse, whose name, in their natural state, they would have pronounced only with anathemas. Having obtained a sufficient number of volunteers to accompany me, for there were some who thought the journey would be a disastrous one, we left the Kuruman on the 9th of November.

The two ambassadors were received at Old Lithako with great kindness by the people of Mahura, who at that period strongly recommended the pacific precepts of the Gospel introduced by the missionaries, although he himself has not yet shown that he has received that Gospel into his heart, which has scattered so many blessings in his path. Mahura’s speech had a good effect on their minds, in so far as it convinced them, that he who professed so high a regard for their guardian would do them no harm.

Leaving Lithako, we tr-velled in our empty wagons with more than usual speed, over the Barolong plains, in many parts of which the traveller, like the mariner on the ocean, sees the expanse around him bounded only by the horizon. Clumps of mimosas occasion¬ ally met the eye, while the grass, like fields of tall wheat, waved in the breeze; amidst which various kinds of game were found, and the king of the forest roved at large. Some of the solitary inhabitants, who subsisted entirelv on roots and the chase, would intercept our course, and beg a little tobacco, and sometimes pass the night where we encamped. These were, indeed, the companions of the lion, and seemed perfectly versed in all his tactics. As we were re¬ tiring to rest one night, a lion passed near us, occasionally giving a roar, which softly died away on the extended plain, as it was responded to by another at a distance. Directing the attention of these Balala to this sound, and asking if they thought there was danger, they turned their ears as to a voice with which they were familiar, and, after listening for a moment or two, replied, “There is no danger; he has eaten, and is going to sleep.” They were right, and we slept also. Asking them in the morning how they knew the lions were going to sleep, they replied, “AVe live with them; they are our companions.”

At Sitlagole River, about 160 miles from the Kuruman, we halted in the afternoon, and allowed our oxen to graze on a rising bank opposite our wagons, and somewhat farther than a gun-shot from them. Having but just halted, and not having loosened a gun, we were taken by surprise by two

lions rushing out from a neighbouring thicket. The oldest one, of enormous size, approached within ten yards of the oxen, and bounding on one of my besh killed him in a moment, by sending his great teeth through the vertebra of the neck. The younger lion couched at a distance, while the elder licked his prey, turning his head occasionally towards the other oxen, which had caught his scent and scampered off; then, with his fore-feet upon the carcass, he looked and roared at us, who were all in a scuffle to loosen our guns, and attack his majesty. Two of our number, more eager to frighten than to kill, discharged their muskets; and, probably, a ball whistling past his ear, induced him to retire to the thicket whence he had come, leaving us in quiet possession of the meat. At Meritsane, the bed of another dry river, we had a serenade of desert music, composed of the treble, counter, and bass voices of jackals, hyenas, and lions.

We were kindly treated by the Barolongs; and on the tenth day we arrived at Mosega, the abode of Mokhatla, regent over the fragments, though still a large body, of the Bahurutsi. These had congregated in a glen, and subsisted on game, roots, berries, and the produce of their corn-fields; having been deprived of their flocks by the Mantatees. They were evidently living in fear, lest Moselekatse should one day make them captives. From these people I received a hearty welcome, though I was known to few of them except by name.

Having fulfilled my engagement, in conveying my charge in safety to the Bahurutsi, I, in a solemn and formal manner, delivered them over to the care of Mokliatla, requesting him either to go himself, or send a strong escort to accompany them until they reached the outposts of the Matahele. To this proposal the Tunas were strongly opposed, and en¬ treated me most earnestly to accompany them to their own country; urging, that as I had shown them so much kindness, I must go and experience that of their king, who they declared would kill them if they suffered me to return before he had seen me. Mokhatla came trembling, and begged me to go, as lie and his people would flee if I refused. I pleaded my numerous engagements at the Kuruman; hut argument was vain. At last, to their inexpressible joy, I consented to go as far as their first cattle outposts. Mokhatla had long wished to see the fearful Moselekatse, who had desolated the Bakone country, and the proximity of whose residence gave him just reason to tremble for the safety of his people; and it was only because they were not the rich owners of herds of cattle, that they had not already become the prey of this African Napoleon.

During three days of heavy rain, which detained us, hlokhatla, whose physiognomy and manoeuvres evinced that, while he had very little of what was noble about him, he was an adept at intrigue, and exhibited too much of the sycophant to command respect, resolved to make himself one of my retinue. The country through which we had to travel was quite of a different character from that we had passed; it was mountainous, and wooded to the summits: evergreens adorned the valleys, in which numerous streams of excellent water flowed throu2:h many a winding course towards the Indian Ocean. During

the first and second day’s journey I was charmed exceedingly, and was often reminded of Scotia’s hills and dales. As it was a rainy season, every thing was fresh; the clumps of trees that studded the plains being covered with rich and living verdure. But these rocks and vales, and picturesque scenes, were often vocal with the lion’s roar. It was a country once covered with a dense population. On the sides of the hills and Kashan mountains were towns in ruins, where thousands once made the country alive, amidst fruitful vales now covered with luxuriant grass, inhabited by game. The extirpating invasions of the Mantatees and Matabele had left to beasts of prey the undisputed right of these lovely woodland glens. The lion, which had revelled on human flesh, as if conscious that there was none to oppose, roamed at large, a terror to the traveller, who often heard with dismay his nightly roaring echoed back by the surrounding hills. We were mercifully preserved during the nights, though our slumbers were often interrupted by his fearful bowlings. We had frequently to take our guns and precede the wagon, as the oxen sometimes took fright at the sudden rush of a rhinoceros or buffalo from a thicket. More than one instance occurred when, a rhinoceros being aroused from its slumbers by the crack of the whips, the oxen would scamper off like race-horses, when destruction of gear, and some part of the wagon, was the result. As there was no road, we were frequently under the necessity of taking very circuitous routes to find a passage through deep ravines; and we were often obliged to employ picks, spades, and hatchets, to clear our way. When we bivouacked for the night, a plain was generally selected, that we might he the better able to defend ourselves; and when tire-wood was plentiful, we made a number of tires at a distance around the wagon. But when it rained, our situation was pitiful indeed; and we only wished it to rain so hard that the lion might not like to leave his lair.

Having travelled one hundred miles, five days after leaving Mosega we came to the first cattle out¬ posts of the Matahele, when we halted by a fine

attention was arrested by a beautiful and gigantic tree, standing in a defile leading into an extensive and woody ravine, between a high range of mountains. Seeing some individuals employed on the ground under its shade, and the conical points of what looked like houses in miniature protruding through its evergreen foliage, I proceeded thither, and found that the tree was inhabited by several families of Bakones, the aborigines of the country. I ascended by the notched trunk, and found, to my amazement, no less than seventeen of these aerial abodes, and three others unfinished. On reaching the topmost hut, about thirty feet from the ground, I entered, and sat down. Its only furniture was the hay which covered the floor, a spear, a spoon, and a howl full of locusts. Not having eaten any thing that day, and from the novelty of my situation, not wish¬ ing to return immediately to the wagons, I asked a woman who sat at the door with a babe at her breast, permission to eat. This she granted with pleasure, and soon brought me more in a powdered state. Several more females came from the neighbouring

rivulet. My

roosts, stepping from branch to branch, to see the stranger, who was to them as great a curiosity as the tree was to him. I then visited the different abodes, which were on several principal branches. The structure of these houses was very simple. An oblong scaffold, about seven feet wide, is formed of straight sticks. On one end of this platform a small cone is formed, also of straight sticks, and thatched with grass. A person can nearly stand upright in it: the diameter of the door is about six feet. The house stands on the end of the oblong, so as to leave a little square space before the door. On the day previous I had passed several villages, some containing forty houses, all built on poles about seven or eight feet from the ground, in the form of a circle: the ascent and descent is by a knotty branch of a tree placed in front of the house. In the centre of the circle there is always a heap of the bones of game they have killed. Such were the domiciles of the impoverished thousands of the aborigines of the country, who, having been scattered and peeled by Moselekatse, had neither herd nor stall, but subsisted on locusts, roots, and the chase. They adopted this mode of architecture to escape the lions which abounded in the country. During the day the families descended to the shade beneath to dress their daily food. When the inhabitants increased, they supported the augmented weight on the branches by upright sticks; but when lightened of their load, they removed these for fire -wood. The following sketch of the tree (a species oi ficus,) taken on the spot, will serve to illustrate what has been written on these aerial abodes.

As a proof of the necessity of such an expedient as above described, I may add, that during the day, having shot a rhinoceros, we had reserved the hump of the animal to roast during the night; a large ant-hill was selected for the purpose, and beingprepared by excavation and fire, this tit-hit was deposited. During the night, a couple of lions, attracted by the roast, drew near, and though it was beyond gun-shot, we could hear them distinctly, as if holding council to wait till the fire went out, to obtain for themselves our anticipated breakfast. As the fire appeared to have gone out altogether we had given up hope till morning light showed us that the lions had been in earnest, hut the heat of the smoulder¬ ing ant-hill had effectually guarded our steak.

After my return to the wagons, some Matabele warriors approached, who, on seeing ’Umbate and his companion, and their attendants, bowed at a distance, until he beckoned them to draw near, when they addressed the Tunas in the most servile language, which proved that we had not been mistaken in regarding them as men of distinction. Having thus arrived at the out-posts of Moselekatse’s dominions, I again referred to my engagement, and proposed returning home, having now brought them thus far, and, according to the phraseology of the country, placed them among, or behind the shields of their nation. The two chief men arose, and after looking for a while on the ground as if in deep thought, ’Umbate, laying his right hand on my shoulder, and the left on his breast, addressed me in the following language: “Father, you have been our guardian. We are yours. You love us, and will you leave us?” and pointing to the blue mountains on the distant horizon, “Yonder,” he added, “dwells the great Moselekatse, and how shall we approach his presence, if you are not with us? If you love us still, save us, for when we shall have told our news, he will ask why our conduct gave you pain to cause your return; and be¬ fore the sun descend on the day we see his face, we shall be ordered out for execution, because you are not. Look at me and my companion, and tell us if you can, that you will not go, for we had better die here than in the sight of our people.” I reasoned, but they were silent; their eyes, however, spoke a language I could not resist. ‘’Are you afraid?” said one; to which I replied, “No.” “Then,” said ’Umbate, “it remains with you to save our lives, and our wives and children from sorrow.” I now found my¬ self in a perplexing position, these noble suppliants standing before me, ’Umhate, whose intelligent countenance beamed with benevolence, while his masculine companion, another Mars, displayed a sympathy of feeling not to be expected in the man of war, who could count his many tens of slain warriors which had adorned his head with a ring or badge of victory and honour. My own attendants, whom I had the day before been commending for their intrepidity, were looking on the transaction as if the destinies of an empire were involved; and heard, not without strong emotion, my consent to accompany the strangers to their king.

We now travelled along a range of mountains run¬ ning near E.S.E., while the country to the north and east became more level, but beautifully studded with ranges of little hills, many isolated, of a conical form, along the bases of w hich lay the ruins of innumerable towns, some of which were of amazing extent. The soil of the valleys and extended plains was of the richest description. The torrents from the adjacent heights had, from year to year, carried away immense masses, in some places laying bare the substratum of granite rocks, exhibiting a mass of rich soil from ten to twenty feet deep, where it was evident native grain had formerly wnved; and water-melons, pumpkins, kidney-beans, and sweet reed had once flourished. The ruins of many towns showed signs of immense labour and perseverance; stone fences, averaging from four to seven feet high, raised apparently wdthout mortar, hammer, or line. Every thing was circular, I’rom the inner walls which sujTounded each dwelling

or family residence, to those which encircled a town. In traversing these ruins, I found the remains of some houses which had escaped the flames of the marauders. These were large, and displayed a far superior style to any thing I had witnessed among the other aboriginal tribes of Southern Africa. The circular walls were generally composed of hard clay, with a small mixture of cow-dung, so well plastered and polished, a refined portion of the former mixed with a kind of ore, that the interior of the house had the appearance of being varnished. The walls and door-ways were also ne of architraves and cornices. The pillars supporting the roof in the form of pilasters, projecting from the walls, and adorned with flutings and other designs showed much taste in the architectresses. This taste, however, was exercised on fragile materials, for there was nothing in the building like stone, except the foundations. The houses, like all others in the interior, were round, with conical roofs, extending be¬ yond the walls, so as to aflbrd considerable shade, or what might be called a verandah. The raising of the stone fences must have been a work of immense labour, for the materials had all to be brought on the shoulders of men, and the quarries where these materials were probably obtained, were at a considerable distance. The neighbouring hills also gave ample demonstration of human perseverance, with instruments of the most paltry description.

In some places were found indigenous fig-trees, growing on squares of stone left by the quarriers, the height of twelve feet, and held together by the inter¬ secting roots of the tree. On some of these we

atly ornamented with a kind found ripe figs, but, from the stony basis, and un¬ cultivated state, they were much inferior to those grown in the gardens of the Colony. Many an hour have I walked, pensively, among these scenes of desolation, — casting my thoughts back to the period when these now ruined habitations teemed with life and revelry, and when the hills and dales resounded to the burst of heathen joy. Nothing now remained but dilapidated walls, heaps of stones, and rubbish, mingled with human skulls, which, to a contemplative mind, told their ghastly tale. These are now the abodes of reptiles and beasts of prey. Occasion¬ ally a large stone-fold might be seen occupied by the cattle of the Matabele, who had caused the land thus to mourn. Having Matabele with me, I found it extremely difficult to elicit local information from the dejected and scattered aborigines who occasionally came in our way. These trembled before the nobles, who ruled them with a rod of iron. It was soon evident that the usurpers were anxious to keep me in the dark about the devastations which everywhere met our eyes, and they always endeavoured to be present when I came in contact with the aborigines of the country, but as I could speak the language some opportunities were afforded. One of the three servants who accompanied the two ambassadors to the Kuruman, was a captive among the Mantatees, who had been defeated at Old Lithako. He, as well as his fellow-servants, felt a pleasure in speaking with us in Sechuana, their native language. He, and many hundreds more of that people, were, on their return from the defeat, taken prisoners by Moselekatse. This individual, though an athletic and stern-AN INTELLIGENT NATIVE.

looking being was also a shrewd observer of character, and possessed a noble mind, which revolted at the tyranny of his new masters. He was a native of the regions through which we were now passing, and would sometimes whisper to me events connected with the desolations of his father-land. These nations he described as being once numerous as the locusts, rich in cattle, and traffickers, to a great extent, with the distant tribes of the north. My informant, with his fellow Bakones, had witnessed the desolation of many of the towns around us — the sweeping away the cattle and valuables — the butchering of the inhabitants, and their being enveloped in smoke and flames. Commandos of Ghaka, the once bloody monarch of the Zoolus, had made frightful havoc; but all these were nothing to the final overthrov, of the Bakone tribes by the arms of Moselekatse. The former inhabitants of these luxuriant hills and fertile plains had, from peace and plenty, become effeminate, — while the Matabele, under the barbarous reign of the monster Chaka, from whose iron grasp they had made their escape, like an overwhelming torrent, rushed onward to the north, marking their course with blood and carnage.

On a Sabbath morning I ascended a hill, at the base of which we had halted the preceding evening, to spend the day. I had scarcely reached the summit and sat down, when I found that my intelligent companion had stolen away from the party, to answer some questions I had asked the day before, and to which he could not reply, because of the presence of his superiors. Happening to turn to the right, and seeing before me a large extent of level ground covered with ruins, I inquired what had become of the inhabitants. He had just sat down, but rose, evidently with some feeling, and, stretching forth his arm in the direction of the ruins, said, “I, even I, beheld it!” and paused, as if in deep thought. “There lived the great chief of multitudes. He reigned among them like a king. He was the chief of the blue-coloured cattle. They were numerous as the dense mist on the mountain brow; his flocks covered the plain. He thought the number of his warriors would awe his enemies. His people boasted in their spears, and laughed at the cowardice of such as had fled from their towns. ‘ I shall slay them, and hang up their shields on my hill. Our race is a race of warriors. Who ever subdued our fathers? they were mighty in combat. We still possess the spoils of ancient times? Have not our dogs eaten the shields of their nobles? The vultures shall devour the slain of our enemies.’ Thus they sang, and thus they danced, till they beheld on yonder heights the approaching foe. The noise of their song was hushed in night, and their hearts were filled with dismay. They saw the clouds ascend from the plains. It was the smoke of burning towns. The confusion of a whirlwind was in the heart of the great chief of the blue-coloured cattle. This shout was raised, ‘ They are friends but they shouted again, ‘ They are foes,’ till their near approach proclaimed them naked Matahele. The men seized their arms, and rushed out, as if to chase the antelope. The onset was as the voice of lightning, and their spears as the shaking of a forest in the autumn storm. The Matabele lions raised the shout of death, and flew upon their victims. It was the shout of victory. Their hissing and hollow

groans told their progress among the dead. A few moments laid hundreds on the ground. The clash of shields was the signal of triumph. Our people tied with their cattle to the top of yonder mount. The Matahele entered the town with the roar of the lion; they pillaged and fired the houses, speared the mothers, and cast their infants to the flames. The sun went down. The victors emerged from the smoking plain, and pursued their course, surrounding the base of yonder hill. They slaughtered cattle; they danced and sang till the dawn of day; they ascended, and killed till their hands were weary of the spear.’’ Stooping to the ground on which we stood, he took up a little dust in his hand; blowing it off, and hold¬ ing out his naked palm, he added, “That is all that remains of the great chief of the blue-coloured cattle!” It is impossible for me to describe my feelings while listening to this descriptive effusion of native eloquence; and I afterwards embraced opportunities of writing it down, of which the above is only an abridgment. I found also from other aborigines that his was no fabled song, but merely a compendious sketch of the catastrophe.

We were detained several days at this place by dreadful storms of thunder, which appeared to make the very mountains shake, and heavy rains which caused torrents of water to fall from the neighbouring heights, which deluged the plains. The luxuriance of every thing on hill and dale was great. The rich black soil being saturated with water, became so adhesive, that it was found impossible for either men or oxen to proceed. The wheels became one mass of clay, which nothing could detach, while the feet of the oxen became so large with the tenacious soil, that it was out of our power to move them from the spot. Though we could only see the smoke of distant villages, we had frequent visitors bringing us ahundant supplies of milk and grain, borne on the heads of women belonging to the subjugated Bechuana tribes.

The dark cloudy weather and uncomfortable accommodations awoke gloomy forebodings in the minds of my people, some of whom would gladly have escaped, but the distance from home was too great. When the weather allowed us to proceed, two days more brought us through a fertile country to the hanks of the Limyopo, called Uri, higher up, where the scaly crocodile may be seen protruding his ugly snout on the sedgy bank of the river.

Passing over some hills to the right,. we were not a little surprised, on descending into the next glen, to find a large hunting party of Berend Berend and his people, with a number of wagons. From Berend I learned that Mr. Archbell, Wesleyan Missionary, had come along with him to look out for a suitable spot for a station, and in company with Mrs. A. had left the party three days before, to see Moselekatse, and that the Matehele monarch had refused to receive him till our arrival, our approach having been long announced at the capital. A special messenger having arrived to conduct me thither, I proceeded by a circuitous route over hill and dale, quite difficult enough for human beings to traverse, much more so for oxen with wagons, and after a long and harassing day’s ride, we reached the Pehan river to halt for the sabbath, the greater part of which I spent with Mr. and Mrs. Archbell; a treat I little expected when I left home.

On Monday we were joined by Mr. A. and a

trader. From my Matabele charge I learned, that Moselekatse was not altogether satisfied with Berend’s intrusion into his dominions, and had therefore refused to see any one before our arrival. Mr. A., who had been kept some days waiting, and was strongly inclined to return, was prevailed upon to accompany us, and two days more we proceeded eastward, over a hilly, trackless, and woody country, receiving every demonstration of the pleasure Moselekatse anticipated in welcoming us at his capital. In the early part of the day we came within sight of the long-looked-for spot under a range of hills. One of the Tunas had left us at the Limpopo, to appear in person before his king, and, as he expressed it, to make my path straight to the abode of his sovereign. “There,’’ said ’Umbate, pointing to the town, “there dwells the great king Pezoolu,”^ the Elephant, the Lion’s paw,” following up these titles with ascriptions of extravagant praise.

As the wagons had to make a circuit to arrive at a ford through the river, Entsabotluku, Mr. Archbell, myself, and two of our attendants, saddled our horses to go the direct road. When we reached the river, we found people bathing, who, seeing horsemen, scampered otF in the greatest terror. We proceeded directly to the town, and on riding into the centre of the large fold, which was capable of holding ten thou¬ sand head of cattle, we were rather taken by surprise to find it lined by eight hundred warriors, besides two hundred who were concealed on each side of the entrance, as if in ambush. We were beckoned

* Heaven, one of bis titles.

to dismount, which we did, holding our horses’ bridles in our hands. The warriors at the gate instantly rushed in with hideous yells, and leaping from the earth with a kind of kilt around their bodies, hanging like loose tails, and their large shields, frightened our horses. They then joined the circle, falling into rank with as much order as if they had been accustomed to European tactics. Here we stood surrounded by warriors, whose kilts were of ape skins, and their legs and arms adorned with the hair and tails of oxen, their shields reaching to their chins, and their heads adorned with feathers.

Although in the centre of a town, all was silent as the midnight hour, while the men were motionless as statues. Eyes only were seen to move, and there was a rich display of fine white teeth. After some minutes of profound silence, which was only interrupted by the breathing of our horses, the war song hurst forth. There was harmony, it is true, and they beat time with their feet, producing a sound like hollow thunder; but some parts of it was musiQ be¬ fitting the nether regions, especially when they imitated the groanings of the dying on the field of battle, and the yells and hissings of the conquerors. An¬ other simultaneous pause ensued, and still we wondered what was intended, till out marched the monarch from behind the lines, followed by a number of men hearing baskets and bowls of food. He came up to us, and having been instructed in our mode of salutation, gave each a clumsy hut hearty shake of the hand. He then politely turned to the food, which was placed at our feet, and invited us to partake. By this time the wagons were seen in the distance,

and having intimated our wish to be directed to a place where we might encamp in the outskirts of the town, he accompanied us, keeping fast hold of my right arm, though not in the most graceful manner, yet with perfect familiarity. “The land is before you; you are come to your son. You must sleep where you please.” When the “moving houses,” as the wagons were called, drew near, he took a firmer grasp of my arm, and looked on them with unutterable surprise; and this man, the terror of thousands, drew back with fear, as one in doubt as to whether they were not living creatures. When the oxen were unyoked, he approached the wagon with the utmost caution, still holding me by one hand, and placing the other on his mouth indicating his surprise. He looked at them very intently, particularly the wheels, and when told of how many pieces of wood each wheel was composed, his wonder was increased. After examining all very closely, one mystery yet remained, how the large band of iron surrounding the felloes of the wheel came to be in one piece without either end or joint. ’Umbate, my friend and fellow-traveller, whose visit to our station had made him much wiser than his master, took hold of my right hand, and related what he had seen. “My eyes,” he said, “saw that very hand,” pointing to mine, “cut these bars of iron, take a piece off one end, and then join them as you now see them.” A minute inspection ensued to discover the welded part. “Does he give medicine to the iron?” was the monarch’s inquiry. “No,” said ’Umbate, “nothing is used but fire, a hammer, and a chisel.” Moselekatse then returned to the town, where the warriors were still standing as rv

•V lie left them, who received him with immense bursts of cipjihiuse.

The accompanying sketches exhibit a Matabele, and a Batlapi or Bechuana warrior. They are placed together for the purpose of showing the difference of taste and costume, as well as the armour used by those distinct tribes. Some thousands of the Matahele, composing several regiments, are distinguished by the colour of their shields, as well as the kind and profusion of feathers which generally adorn their heads, having also a long feather of the blue crane rising from their brows, all which has an imposing effect at their onset. Their arms consist of a shield, short spear, and club. The club, often made of the horn of a rhinoceros or hard wood, they throw with unerring precision, so as even to strike dead the smaller antelope. The spear is not intended for throwing, but for close combat, and such being their mode of warfare, the tribes accustomed to throw their light javelins to a distance, are overtaken by these organized soldiers and mowed down. They must con(|uer or die; and if one return without his shield or spear, at the frown of his sovereign he is instantly despatched by another. They look, best in their war dress, which is only worn on great occasions and without which they are, like the Kafir tribes, in a state of nudity. They rarely use a war axe, which distinguishes the accompanying Bechuana warrior, and which he only uses when brought into embarrassed circumstances, when his sjiears are expended, or when butchering the vanquished enemy. Their shields, made of the tliickest jiart of the ox hide, are very different in size and shape. That of the

Matabele is sufficiently large to cover the body, while the other is light, and easily manoeuvred so as to throw off the missiles of the enemy. That of a Basuto is smaller still, and seems only capable of defend¬ ing the left hand, which grasps the spears, and a rod bearing a plume of black ostrich feathers.

Moselekatse did not fail to supply us abundantly with meat, milk, and a weak kind of beer, made from the native grain. He appeared anxious to please, and to exhibit himself and people to the best advantage. In accordance with savage notions of confer¬ ring honour, all the inhabitants and warriors of the neighbouring towns were ordered to congregate at head-quarters, and on the following day a public ball was given in compliment to the strangers. A smooth plain adjoining the town was selected for the purpose, where Moselekatse took his stand in the centre of an immense circle of his soldiers, numbers of women being present, who, with their shrill voices and clap¬ ping of hands, took part in the concert. About thirty ladies from his harem, with long white wands, marched to the song backward and forward on the outside of the ranks, their well lubricated shining bodies being too weighty for the agile movements which characterized the matrons and damsels of lower rank. They sang their war songs, and one composed on occasion of the visit of the strangers, gazing on and adoring with trembling fear and admiration the potentate in the centre, who stood, and sometimes regulated the motions of thousands by the movement of his head, or the raising or depression of his hand. He then sat down on his shield of lion’s skin, and asked me if it was not fine, and if we had such things in my country.

I could not gratify Ins vanity by saying I did admire that which excited the most thrilling sensations in his martial bosom; and as to there being halls, public halls, in honour of the great and renowned, I did not choose to acknowledge.

This public entertainment, or display of national glory, occupied the greater part of the day, when the chief retired, swollen with pride, amidst the deafening shouts of adoring applause, not only of the populace, hut of his satraps, who followed at a distance to do him homage at his own abode. Whenever he arose or sat down, all within sight hailed him with a shout, Baaite! or Aaite! followed by a number of his high sounding titles, such as Great King, King of heaven, the Elephant, etc.

No. 1. A Bechuana needle or bodkin, about six inches long.

2. Its sheath, made of brass wire.

3. A war axe, the handle of rhinoceros horn, about two and a half feet long.

4. The sheath of a knife.

5. The knife, six inches long, with a carved ivory handle.