Lyons — Return to Paris — Bordeaux — Other Towns — Visit to England — Return to Paris — Second Visit to England

Any cities of France were wakening up at the report of what was doing in the capital. A new religion had begun. The English, who in 1870 had supplied the famishing city with abundance of provisions, had come over with what they called “the bread of life,” and were making known to the people the Gospel or good news concerning the love of Christ. The tens of thousands who visited the Great Exhibition from the provinces, had carried back to a thousand villages the tracts so widely scattered, and the tidings of the Gospel.

Will they not visit us in the far-off provinces? Will they not bring the new religion to us? If it is good, let us share it. We hear that it tells of liberty, let us hear about the liberty. It tells about

the love of God, let us hear of this love; for we never heard from our priests that God loved us, and would bless us freely. Many in Paris have got hold of something which they can believe, and in believing which they can be happy; — something which supersedes those ancient follies and modern misbeliefs, which left them without a hope. Will they not send this religion to us?

Mr. M’All hastened to their help. In November 1878, he went to Lyons, a city of 350,000, a home of early martyrdom, — now a seat of extreme Popery, extreme infidelity, and extreme democracy. In a few weeks he succeeded in starting four stations, to which another has since been added. Returning to Paris after a few weeks, he was followed by Mr. Dodds, who laboured there for two months.

In regard to health, Mr. Dodds found a great difference between Lyons and Paris. The dryness of the latter city suited him well. The dampness of the former brought on attacks of fever and ague taking away half his strength. Yet, in spite of these, he held on his way, and found no small encouragement in his work, though the difficulties were greater than in the capital. He had more opposition here from several quarters, and he had also a somewhat pecidiar people to deal with. These things, however, he minded not, so long as bodily health held out. But the effect of the moist climate made him glad to return to the more congenial atmosphere of Paris.

His work in Lyons was full of interest, as his letters and journals show. In my former volume on “The White Fields of France,” I have given extracts from these; I need not re-quote them. I give other passages from letters and journals which, though fragmentary, will show a little of his Lyons work.

“23rc? November, 1878. — Reached Lyons about half-past four. Went with Mr. Ashton to Les Brotteaux; full meeting; MM. Coste, Duchemin, Ashton (who presided). I closed with prayer.

“2Uh November. — Sunday evening. Mr. Ashton at La Guillotiere, self at Vaise; spoke on our object in these meetings. * Jesus Christ est venu.’ Full meeting. Cheering tokens.

“26^/2- November. — At La Guillotiere with Mr. Ashton arranging matters. Went up by Ficelle to Fourviere;* fine view; Alps. Gathering in evening at M. Monod’s of workers; good gathering; I trust good results. Gave away copies of ‘La vraie paix.’

“lst December. — Simday. Vaise, evening; se’!f on Chercher I’Eternal; MM. Puyroche, Duchemin; very full; had to stand the whole time; people close to me at the platform; very noisy; but making an appeal to ’ la politesse frangaise,’ obtained silence; deep impression. Lord, it is Thine own work. Oh bless it.

“Zrd December. — At home all day, studying, reading. Advent of Christ. Writing letters. Dined at M. Monod’s, and spent a most pleasant evening there.”

“Fourviere, r= Forum vetus of the days of Trajan.

“61 Avenue de Noailles,

Lyons, 25^/^ Novemher, 1878.

“I have been tired out with journeying, draught on the road, &c. I have been warding off influenza with arsenic and chinchona bark. Lyons is damp; two rivers, and hills steep and close. Yesterday and to-day a violent gale of wind, but oh, so soft and warm; it is like the sirocco at Rome, Mr. Ashton says; streets therefore full of dust, and walking about disagreeable. The city is fine, reminding me in some degree of Edinburgh. ... In the evening (yesterday) I went to Vaise; second meeting there; crowded and very orderly; a bright cheery room, and fair speakers, whom I had to keep in training. The young men of the Christian Association seem hearty and willing to learn. The room near us in this avenue, is very pretty, papered and brightly lighted. F.’s texts are capital — show well. Already we have met with some interesting incidents, and are much encouraged. We need much prayer. We are more alone here than in Paris. There are few helpers, but we must get them stirred up.

“28^/t November. — Mr. A. left this morning, and I am alone and rather desol. On Tuesday Mr. A. and I went up by the * Ficelle ’ * to La Fourviere, &c. Tuesday night we all met the workers at M. Monod’s (brother of Theodore), and spent a very pleasant evening; only they were all very distinct in saying that they cannot carry on the work. Well, perhaps not, but I am determined to keep them at it.”

“61 Avenue de Noailles,

Lyons, 1st December, 1878.” I was grieved to hear of Eugene Petit; do take him some wine and give him some money; he must, indeed, be very

* Ficelle, =: twine or thread. The ficelle is the rope which draws carriages up the steep incline.

low. I don’t forget him, and the many others whom I long for — their salvation and freedom from sin.

“61 Avenue de Noailles, Lyons,
Rhone, Zrd December, 1878.

“So glad F. had seen Eugene Petit; what he said was beautiful. I am well and almost rid of my influenza, but Sunday night brought a bad headache. I was at Vaise — such a meeting. I had to stand the whole time, and people were crowding round as close as could be. They were very noisy at first, but I said that in Scotland we had heard much of * la politesse frangaise,’ and I hoped they were not going to ruin that reputation. The consequence was that they were perfectly quiet, and the audience themselves twice checked a tendency to make a noise. I go to-night to M. Monod’s to talk with him about various matters.

“This is a cold, miserable day — hills white with snow round Lyons. On dit that there are no bright days till January. The weather is quite unlike the climate of Paris.”

“7iy December. — I have been up at La Croix Pousse, but have not got much done as yet. What a bloody history this town has. Mr. Neilson, a friend here of our work, gave me a small history of Lyons, or rather of the Church of Lyons, which I’ve been reading. I must try and write something on the past as well as present. Its history is interesting; the fact that the Vandals, and other Gothic tribes came thus far, makes me feel quite friendly to this place; and if I had time to ransack libraries, surely I might get some MS. of that grand old fellow Wulfila!

“Eugene Petit’s letter is beautiful, such a cheerful, uncomplaining disposition; I am sure he is growing in grace.”

2IO Memoh’ of Rev. G. T. Dodds,

“Lyons, 17th December, 1878,

“The meetings go on splendidly, malgre the lack of sjDeakers; however, M. Dardier of Geneva comes next week, and I expect some other help, and hope to manage. La Croix Eoiisse is to be opened on Saturday. I am going to have a rehearsal of hymns the night before.”

“Lyons, 2lst December, 1878.

“I was at La Croix Rousse the other day, and it was a

veritable voyage — nothing sufficiently ready at that station,

paint not dry in time, and workmen equally slow; so I have

to put it off till Tuesday; and M. de Watte ville will be gone.”

“Lyons, Thursday, 2Qlh December, 1878.

“Tuesday evening. — We opened La Croix Rousse. I went up for the third time in the evening, and had to go to the Eglise libre Chapelle, a little distance off, and with another man, transport an organ to the salle — the one I ordered not having been sent; the gas indeed was finished only an hour or two before the meeting. We had not a very large meeting, about 130, but it will increase, as there were not many passers-by, and we had not the gas outside. The people were quiet.

“I have been at three Christmas-trees — one on Sunday (don’t be shocked) and two yesterday — and all in church. This is a German custom, and has become more common here since the war, so many Alsatians and Lorrainers having come to Lyons. It is a sort of soiree given to the children of the Sunday and so-called ragged schools, these latter being often poor, but generally children of Roman Catholic parents. I was asked to speak on Sunday to them, and was introduced as * une surprise,’ and like Jack-in-the-box astonished them by my appearance. It was a good occasion for evangelising, as there

21 I

“were a great many people there who never come to church, Roman or Protestant. Then bonbons, &c., were distributed, and I came away. There were two large trees covered with ornaments, and lit up with small candles — two men with sponges on a long pole squashed any candle that attempted a blaze. I could not help feeling that, though there were several most respectable pastors there, I was assisting at some heathen ceremony, especially when the children sung,” 0 hmu Sapin “(0 beautiful fir-tree) it looked like an act of worship. Of course you are both sufficiently learned to know that the Christmas-tree is an old affair, — a custom of our most honourable forefathers, the Teutons and Northmen, — and that it exists everywhere in Germany.”

To his parents: —

“Lyons, Qth January, 1878.

“We have finer weather now, but it has been frightful; wind, rain, mist, and half-melted snow, the rivers swollen, and neither omnibus nor steamboat, so one has to walk to most of the meetings, and they are crowded, crammed; and sometimes the concierges, who resemble beadles in their perception of what is necessary, light an immense fire on a very close evening; and what with singing, speaking, and not daring to refresh one’s memory with notes if one wishes to be listened to, and keeping order, a meeting of one hour’s length is no small thing. On the Christmas week, lesides my seven meetings, I addressed children at three Christmas-trees; and went into the country on Christmas-day, and addressed the people in a village at the opening of a new Mission Hall, and then on Sunday did what I question if any Presbyterian pastor ever did before, — at least since Charles II., — preached for Mr. Simpson, the Episcopalian minister, in his own pulpit. I told him I was glad that some men recognised Presbyterian orders, and that it used to be so in England, when Richard Hooker had, for colleague in the Temple Church in London, a minister who was only in Presbyterian orders.

“The Christmas-trees are quite an institution here. It is a thoroughly German custom, and the influx of German-speaking French from Alsace and Lorraine has brought in the custom, which is altogether a heathen one, as is Christmas itself. Indeed when in the huge French temple here, the children gathered round two brilliantly lighted trees, and sang, ’ 0 beau Sapin,’ I fancied myself many centuries back assisting at some heathen rite of worship. One of the gatherings was of schools called, ’ ecoles populaires,’ corresponding almost to our ragged schools. The children are ignorant and ragged, and their parents came to the fete. It was an excellent opportunity to evangelise, there being three hundred children, and about seven or nine hundred grown-up people most of whom hardly ever came near a church. I told them some stories, having been introduced as une surprise, like Jackin-the-box. They answered questions like Scotch children; their willingness to say yes to everything was rather amusing. ‘Would not you all like to become men? ’ said Mr. Monod, in an appealing tone. ‘Qui, monsieur,’ answered a whole bench of bonny Avee lassies, not much above the ages of four and five years. During the week I formed part of a Commission d Etude, for the examination of a student on trial for ordination; he has a good memory, has studied under Professor Godet, of Neuchatel, and answered remarkably well during the six hours of pretty close questioning to which he was subjected. M. Duchemin, son-in-law of Dr. D’Aubigne, was a capital examiner in Church history. People have been very kind, asking me to dejeuner about twelve o’clock. I like this better than any other hour, as we can leave early, and it does not take up the whole evening. I lunched with M. de Cazenove, an old and evangelical French family. He is comparatively young, and takes a deep interest in the work among the ‘Hantes Alpes.’

“I have had help from Geneva, and from Bourg, a small town near Lyons; M. Dardier, who is well-known in Scotland, was with me for five days, an admirable speaker for the working-classes. M. Eynard, pastor, was here a week, an ingenious man, able to put a harmonium right in the meeting, which he did one evening surrounded by oiivriers. He gave me a detailed description of a machine which he has invented and nearly prepared for use; a composing machine which does away with composing by hand. There are horizontal divisions containing letters, &c.... I hope he will get some money by it, as his salary as pastor is only ^60 a-year, and a wife and children to keep. The salaries of the pastors of the National Church are miserable, the people huve not learned to give. Perhaps only a disruption in their church would teach them how.”

To Rev. H. G. Shepherd : —

“Lyons, llih January, 1879.

“My life is a very busy one. My meetings rose to fifteen, and sometimes seventeen per week during the summer, for our daily conferences at the Exhibition added greatly to our work. We had much encouragement in it, and are only now reaping the fruits. It has done much to remove prejudice and ignorance existing among the Roman Catholics, and has prepared the way for the preaching of the Gospel throughout France. I have been here nearly two months, and return on Monday to Paris. I had seven meetings the Christmas-week, went once into the country, addressed a meeting in a new Mission Chapel, spoke to three huge gatherings of children met to celebrate that most heathen of rites — a Christmas-tree. We have four stations situated in the outskirts of the town, one being more in the centre. I have just returned from one which

I opened only three weeks ago; there must have been there altogether nearly 200 people, and they listened with most unfailing attention to chapter and speeches, and already sing the hymns as if they had known them for long. It is wonderful how ready these ouvriers are to hear the Gospel; they are men of no religion, being merely nominal Catholics, and the Gospel draws them at first hearing, thoiigli they often admire more than feel their need of the great salvation we proclaim. “C’est tres gentil,” snms tip their opinion of its truths. They use the same word regarding sinsy they say, “Ce n’est pas gentil.” The fact is, I never saw a people so entirely without the moral aspects of conscience; their conscience has been trained to sleep by their religion, and it is difiicult to find where it is yet in existence. They are worst at Paris; here the people are of a more solid character. Yet I must say that we have great reason to give thanks. I know of several, infidel, swearing, ignorant, indiff’erent, in whose heart the seed sown has, I trust, taken root, and is even already bearing fruit. I have greatly enjoyed my work among them. 1 have given an account of the work in the liecord for February, and in this week’s Christian Week. I have been reading the history of Pierre Waldo, the translator of the Bible and reformer before the Reformation. It is deeply interesting. What do you think of some of his evangelists and adherents being able to repeat the Book of Job, and many the whole of the New Testament by heart. Surely we must have lost the art of memory. I believe that such memories alone qualified for the pastorate among them. Wae’s me! how many of us would be elected!”

Though the climate of Lyons did not suit him he greatly enjoyed the work there. It was more difficult than that of Paris; but he did not like it the less on that account. There was more opposition to the Bible and the Gospel; but he was prepared for this. The extreme of Eomanism and the extreme of infidelity were exhibited there; but he did not shrink from facing these. It was the work which he had come to do; and it was more pleasant to meet the active resistance of the Romanist and the infidel than the stolid acquiescence of the indifferentist. He could suit himself to his new audience and his new circumstances. Besides he did not labour in vain. The meetingrswere uncommonly large and successful. The “good news” of a free forgiveness were not preached in vain. Light found its way into darkness; and here, as in Paris, the “new religion,” — the religion of “peace with God,” startled not a few. It was not with logic, or theology, or science that he met the doubters of Lyons, but with that which every man needs, — the announcement of deliverance from sin, and of reconciliation with the God against whom he has sinned; through the propitiation of the cross.

While at Lyons he thus wrote to his brother, giving some of his thoughts on prophetical subjects: —

“Lyons, th December, 1878.

“I have been studying for a year, and specially here, the subject of the millennium and the second advent of Christ, and it seems to me we are wonderfully near that time. But before that time there is to be a tremendous development of sin and Satan’s power. *The love of the many (t.e., of the greater part of Christians) will wax cold,” and when the Son of Man Cometh will He find faith on the earth V I am firmly convinced that these days of tribulation are coming on our earth. All events are signs of such a state. The Gospel may be said to have been preached in all nations now for a testimony, and ’ then shall the end come,’ and we shall have the personal reign of Christ at Jerusalem. The Bible has been a new book to me since I studied it in these relations. Prophecy, instead of being dark and obscure, is full of light and meaning, and you would, I am sure, find a keen pleasure in studying it in this relation also.

“I have no sympathy with those harum-scarum prophetical writers who fix dates and years, and that sort of thing, but why is prophecy written, why are the gospels full of prophecy, and the Epistles to the Thessalonians, if we are not to study such subjects. A strange delusion seems to have taken hold of ministers; they think that everything is to go on all right, that the world is to be gradually won to Christ, and Christianity is to triumph everywhere.

“Now to me it is quite different. Things are getting worse and worse; infidelity is stronger than ever. The Christians mingle more and more with the world, and worldly people are looked on as Christians.

“What is to come of all this, and how is it to be made to disappear? Not until the coming of Christ; and before that coming, we shall see the fulfilment of 2 Thess. ii., and of Daniel vii. 9; xii. 2, and of Matt. xiii. 5-26, 27 especially; and then we shall have the accomplishment of Acts i. 10, 11; of iii. 19-21; of 2 Peter iii. 3-13, specially 13. I wish I had a small book, ‘Behold, I make all Things New,’ by Dr. Bonar, here; I hope to send it you from Paris.... Have you ever

Rehani to Pans, 2 1 7

read Ezekiel xxxviii. and xxxix.? Who is Rosh and who are the young lions of Tarshish 1 Many say Russia and Britain. It is Britain which has put hooks in Rosh’s jaws and held her back. Russia aims at the Holy Land, and her judgment comes out in chap, xxxix. It is not for nothing that we have India, and Cyprus, and Asia Minor, and the Suez Canal. The Jews are to be brought back to their native land, and Britain is to keep the way open for them.... There is a remarkable book published lately in France, ‘Le Christ,’ by Earnest Neville, &c.”

On the 13tli of January (1879), he left Lyons and returned to Paris to resume his work there after this seven weeks’ interruption. On the 17th he records a “good meeting” at the new station of Menilmontant, and “deep impression.” On the 23rd he is at Vaugirard, from which he mentions that he got home with difficulty, as the snow was very deep. On the 29th we find him present at the funeral of a man who lived above the Salle of St. Antoine; “had never come to the meeting but had read our books. He died in peace. We had a service in the house, and there was a mass in the church; then a service at the grave (Mont Parnasse). Spoke to the people.”

His entry for the 21st of February is “prayer meeting, at two o’clock; large.” Every week the prayer meeting is noted. He was regular in his attendance here as he was at St, Andrews when a student. Yet it was by no means so easy to maintain this weekly regularity. There might have been many excuses, — good enough in their way — business, distance, callers, weariness. But none of these things hindered. The prayer meeting was “business” to him, of the most important kind. It was “necessary,” and to it other things must bend.

On the 26th he writes: “EivOLI. — Hanging up texts. A most interesting conversation with the man referred to on Tuesday, ISth. Sure that he is a Christian. He said, ‘Souvent je me presente le Calvaire, et je me clis, me voila! ‘”

On the 1 7th of February he writes to his parents, mentioning the prospect of a station at Toulouse, for which friends there were to pay. “We hope,” he says; “to superintend and manage a mission there. The French cannot take the initiative; and the work is so thoroughly English that they need to learn it; many of them are apt learners.” Then he goes on to say: —

“I suppose you have all been interested in the changes of Government into which we have so quietly glided. If any one wishes to realise the stability of the Republic, the proof will be found in the profound quiet in which all has happened. It is most remarkable. There has been absolutely no excitement, and MacMahon has done the thing so gracefully that he is respected, though unregretted, and never missed. It does not, and will not make any immediate difference to us, though it will possibly affect the cause of religious liberty in France, and give it a great impulse. A majority of the cabinet are Protestants, and Waddington is a thorough evangelical Christian and a member of the Free Church; we shall at least have some fear of God in the cabinet. I can quite understand MacMahon feeling it a hard trial, as a soldier, to dismiss his old friends; — though Bourbaki is a real specimen of the corrupt generals of the second empire.

“Next week I will write to the class. It is very kind of the children to send us fifteen shillings. I would write now, but it is late, and Mr. Eouilly being. at Lyons, installing M. de Watteville, I have more work than usual to-day, and this is my twentieth letter since yesterday; of course these are only short invitation notes for help, but that takes up a good time.

“I am glad that horrible lottery affair (City of Glasgow Bank) came to an end. Our Paris lottery has been the cause of scenes here; such mad eagerness to win, and such disappointment in losing, but the French conscience is not deep, and it would be useless to try to make them understand its sinfulness. ‘Ce n’est pas gentil,’ will comprehend all their admissions regarding it.”

We resume the jottings of the diary: —

“28^/j- March. — Prayer meeting at two o’clock. Dr. Craig there; called to consult about tracts, from the Religious Tract Society.

“30th March. — Sunday. Sunday school at Crenelle. Hanneman, the usual speaker, ill. Salle at 4.30. Took tea with Mr. Morgan of Edinburgh, and went together to Grenelle. I translated for him; and spoke on the Ethiopian ruler, — a negro; speaking still of Livingstone; had a conversation with a man at the door.

“1st April. - Arranging about new hymn-book with

Mr. M’AU. Rivoli. Dr. Livingstone (Lecture). Had a long walk with Dr. Appia and a most interesting conversation.

“yc? April. — At three o’clock, Ornano; children’s meeting. At five, Menilmontant; then Vangirard” (three in one afternoon).

“6^^ April. — Sunday. Sunday school, Grenelle. Salle, La brebis perdue” (three meetings that afternoon).

“7th April. — German meeting, first night; fifty present.

“10th April. — Ornano at 3. Menilmontant at 5. On to Gare d’lvry. Opening of a new Salle, once a cofi’ee palace; good meeting; spoke on ‘Religion de Jesus Christ.’ Home late.”

A letter to his brother, dated Belleville, 5th April, gives a brief sketch of matters at this time: —

“It has been an exceptionally busy time; we have had so many important matters to decide. I am in the midst of arrangements for printing, or rather getting new tracts written, and a new hymn-book is being prepared. It is to be increased by two hundred hymns. Some aspiring hymn-writers have sent in contributions, and Mr. M’AU has asked me why I do not immortalise myself. I am afraid my French poetry would be something like that famous translation done

to order by M.. Yesterday, too, our troubles and

anxieties about removal came to an end, and we got this house let. I am going to open a German meeting on Monday evening, and enclose a prospectus of it. I expect it will succeed. Some German young men will help me, and some of the pastors. It will revive my knowledge of German. We have got a capital German hymn-book sent us from M. A. Fischer Sarasin, of Bale. There are a large number of Germans in the quarter of La Vilette. Thursday we open our new room at Gare d’lvry. It was the coflfee-palace in which you took tea at the Exhibition. Some friends in England have engaged to raise the money to ,£250. The architect gave it at a large reduction. It will be a great improvement, the Salle was as dingy as could be. The children of Glasgow sent us lately a large picture of the Good Shepherd printed on cloth, life-size, and I found it attracted the attention of the children. I wish we had some more of them.

“I have been giving the people an account of Livingstone, his travels, and death in Africa.

“Enclosed a bill of my lecture for Young Men’s Christian Association — ‘The Religion of Primitive Man, Monotheism.’

“12^/^ Aipril 1879. — I shall be glad to have a rest, for a yeai’ and a-half without holidays, and constant and most responsible work, tires one out.

“I have learned to speak French in public meetings, but am wonderfully ignorant of household words. I have begun a German meeting, and had fifty people the first night. The French is weak beside that grand old Teutonic tongue; yet I don’t despise the former’s elegance and precision.”

We pursue the diary jottings: —

“IWh April. — Ornano. Children. Menilmontant. Went to find Dr. Murray Mitchell, who accompanied me to Gare d’lvry, and spoke. Then I spoke on Dieu est amour. Full meeting.

“2bth April. — Eivoli. Interesting conversation with a young man, a German; seems impressed.

“27th April. — Sunday. Scotch Church, morning. Communion. Mr. Paterson and Dr. Murray Mitchell. Eivoli. Dr. Fisch and M. Dardier. Salle Evangelique. Called on Dr. M. M., and then to Crenelle. Heard from F. about J.; died in a mania for amassing money. Pray for F.

“28th April. — Went to meet Dr. Rainy; found him at Boulevard Malesherbes. He took tea with us, and went to Ornano with Mr. M’All; self to German meeting. Good; upwards of sixty.”

It was at this time that he with his family changed their residence to Boulevard Malesherbes, where they remained upwards of a year.

On the 8th of May he left Paris on a mission journey to England, and also to receive ordination from the Free Church. On the 9th he addressed a large meeting in Exeter Hall — Lord Shaftesbury in the chair. On the 13th, breakfasted with Committee of Tract Society, and addressed them on tract distribution in France. He notes, “Most satisfactory meeting.”

On the 14th he arrived in Edinburgh; and on the following day the Free Presbytery of Edinburgh met in the Grange Church for his ordination. The day was the term-day in the city, and, besides, it was thoroughly rainy, so that the audience was not large; but he notes it as “a solemn day,” and notes also the presence of his father and brother.* In the evening he went to our mission-hall, his old scene of missionary work. In the course of the following ten days he addressed some eleven meetings in various churches and halls, — all, of course, in reference to his Paris work. On the evening of Sabbath, the 25th, he took the French service.

On the 5 th of June he went to Ireland, to the

* The ordination sermon by myself was afterwards published in a small volume “Does God Care for our Great Cities?”

Visit to England. 223

General Assembly of the Presbyterian Church, preaching and speaking, times not a few, — always on France; that was his errand, wherever he went. He was much gratified with his Irish visit.

The following letter to his brother describes his visit to the Assembly: —

“6^^ June,^ 1879. — These Hibernians conduct their meetings with considerable hilarity and noise. They have been debating all day, and now up till eleven this evening, the question of instrumental music, and are now about to take the vote, a slow process. The organ question has been thrashed out for six years, but they are gifted here with immense powers of physical endurance, and Hibernian eloquence flows like an unimpeded stream, — it is only equal to their j okes. They are all very kind and sympathetic, reminding me a little of the French. I am to preach in two of their largest churches on Sunday morning and evening, and as I am to speak on our Mission I hope to get some money. On Tuesday there is to be a drawing-room meeting, and that will raise up some interest in Belfast.”

He returned to Edinburgh and preached there several times; went to Greenock on his mission. In July he went to Cambuslang to visit his friend Mr. Shepherd; and speaks of an interesting prayer meeting there. On the 4)th of the month he was called up to London to meet the secretaries of the Tract Society regarding French tracts. He returned to Edinburgh next day, — two nights in the train. “Studying all day,” is his entry for the 5th. Sunday, 6th July, preaching in different pulpits. Sunday, 13th July, is thus noted by him, “Communion; Dr. B. preached, ‘In His temple doth every one speak of His glory.’ I took second table and address on, ‘He gave Himself.” He that spared not His own Son.’ Rested in the afternoon; preached in the evening; torrents of rain. Text, Luke xxii. 32, ‘Strengthen thy brethren.’ Very solemn and refreshing day for us all.” He returned to Paris on the 15th; re-commenced his work immediately; notes how refreshing it was to meet all the workers again. 21st in town, at Palais du Luxembourg to pay a fine for having put up an ensigne lumineuse (a row of gas jets) at Rivoli without leave; 6 francs 80. At German meeting 130 present, most attentive. 2nd August. — “You know how busy I am. Mr. M’All and M. Rouilly are away; and the organisations and the ceaseless interviewing of strangers both foreign and French take up my time. It is hot, and the meetings suffer. At Rivoli still a good meeting, above 200. We have begun at Bordeaux. I am feeling the want of a rest now. I had none in Scotland; but I am glad to be back to my work.

Again to his parents: —

“147 Boulevard Malesherbes, 9 AoUt, 1879.

“No one need expect many letters from me just now, for every detail of the Mission is on my hands at present, and I am busy from morning to night. M. Eoiiilly returns on the 20th, and Mr. M’All about the end of the month. Every one is away ’ en vacance,’ and there are thus more than a dozen friends whom I always count on for speaking, who are over the hills and far away. We have had a time of great heat, finishing off with sheet-lightning and thunder and rain. One Sunday was simply melting; there was not even a breath of air. These last days have been colder and one does not long for iced water and salad. The heat thinned the meetings, but they are going on as usual again.

“Miss N. is here just now; she comes at her own expense, it is very kind of her; she would make a capital worker. She found herself alone the other evening, and nothing daunted, gave out hymns and read a chapter. I wish we had a few more like her.

“You would see a translation of a letter I received from that poor girl we rescued about a year ago in this week’s Christian Week. It has given many of us great joy, for she was very often nearly going back to her old habits. Now her influence in the Refuge, even among the other young women, is beginning to tell. Two stations have been opened at Bordeaux. The expenses will not be great, little more than £100 a-year. Every town in France seems open to the Gospel. Dr. Somer-Tille had meetings at St. Servan and St. Malo, first for English then for French; one of our workers went tp translate for him. They will open a regular station there now, I think. Money has not lacked hitherto, the difficulty is to get men. Our German meeting is a great success; such veritable Teutons, 130 in number; if you heard them singing the air of ‘Annie Laurie ’ to one of their hymns! It suits well.”

On the loth of September he went to Bordeaux where the meetings had already begun. As his work there was in all respects like that of Paris and Lyons, I need not occupy room in detailing it. Nor need I enumerate the towns and villages, such as Boulogne-sur-Mer, La Rochelle, St. Etienne, and others which he visited at this time and in subsequent years. The materials for an interesting narrative are not lacking in regard to these places, but it would unduly swell this volume. Reluctantly I omit them, giving merely two letters written from Bordeaux about this time, though they relate in part to Paris, the first to his parents, and the last to his brother.

To his parents: —

“Bordeaux, YHh September, 1879.

“They were all well in Paris when. I left; the bairns a little inclined to grmnble, as the heat was oppressive and neither in the house nor outside could they find comfort. They greatly enjoyed the fete which we had for our children in the Bois de Boulogne; it was a beautiful sight. The children were gathered from the schools, in the different halls I mean, about eight o’clock in the morning, and taken either by train or omnibus to the Arc de Triomphe, our rendezvous. Then they were all marched down the Avenue de la Grande Armee, 501 in number, with about sixty monitors, Mr. M All at the head; the procession was two deep, and was quite imposing from its length as it wound out of the city and through the fortifications. We were some time of reaching the Pelouse de ]Iadrid, which the authorities had given us for dining on, and for the children to amuse themselves on; it is a wide, open, grassy space, flanked with trees and shrubs. There they were

spread out in a circle, and M. found his carving faculties

employed in opening tins of American meat and slicing it up for the children; bread was doled out from a big hand-barrow; there was also cheese and small gateaux and plums; for drink, water was used into which was put essence of coffee; drunk cold, it satisfied the thirst very well. The attempts at addressing the children were not many, and the remarks were very short for very potent reasons, but they sung some hymns very well and wdth great spirit; everybody was greatly surprised to see such order and good behaviour, some years ago such a thing would have been impossible. Then came the great attraction of the fete, a visit to the Jar din cVAcclimatatio7i. The authorities were most polite and kind, not only giving us the Pelouse de Madrid, but granting a free entry to the garden (that would come to about £23, as the price is one franc each, and there were about 580 persons). This shows how well disposed the authorities are towards us. After the Jardin had been explored, the children were re-conducted to the Arc de Triomphe, and thence to their homes. The visit to the garden was rather hurriedly made, and might have had much longer time given to it, but there were crowds; it was on Thursday, a half-lioliday, that the fete took place, and priests and nims were out with their schools also. Our assemblage excited some interest. Before reaching the Bois de Boulogne, a priest passed the Arc de Triomphe, and wishing to know what it all meant, he stiunbled on Mr. M’All, who informed him with a profound bow that it was a ‘Fete des ecoles d’ Evangelisation de Paris.’’ The priest was ‘enchante,’ he said, but must have taken the opportunity to inform some of his brethren, for they turned up, some sour, black-looking fellows at the Pelouse, and reconnoitred us; I got near to one of them and heard him asking a good many questions. The priests are much afraid of losing their power in the matter of education just now, owing to M. Ferry’s bill, which will likely pass next session, and they are doubtless much interested in any work which can l)ring together so many children. We ought to have had many more. I was very sorry for those who did not come as they had no fete dress; poor things, they were the very children we wished to have. All of us were at

2 28 Memoir of Rev. G. T. Dodcis,

the fete; we shut up the house and took J. and J. to manage the children, it being also a holiday for themselves. H, and baby were delighted, you should have seen the way they rolled about on the grass; H. made exploring expeditions for himself, requiring everybody to watch him, even to the gardien de la Paix, who once felt it his duty to report on his wanderings. They beheld with much amazement the Nubians riding about on camels in the jardin, and the giraffes with their long necks; there was an ostrich harnessed, poor beast, to a sort of waggon, in which there was room for several children; it looked dreary enough, but the elephants seemed to have no objection to the life they led. Here endeth my causerie on the fete.

“I got here on Monday evening. It is a long journey; leaving Paris from the Gare d’Orleans at half-past nine, and reaching Bordeaux about eleven o’clock. What a dust there was all the way till I got to Poitiers, where there had been rain! The country was pretty level all the way until near Poitiers, when I was reminded of the Rhine. We passed numerous villages with their red-tiled roofs, surrounded by vine-clad slopes. The people were gathering the grapes; others were filling bogs with potatoes. I saw splendid rows of poplars; these and the other trees were still very green, and had not yet got their autumn hues, though the chestnuts with their golden fruit were showing signs of a summer passed away. I have had hardly time to examine Bordeaux; it is like most French towns; there are fine open squares. I am going down to the harbour to get a sight of the ships, and acquaint myself with the city and the Bordelais. We have two stations, four meetings a-week, and a children’s meeting, so that I shall have less to do, and will rest a little; otherwise there is plenty left undone in Paris which I must attempt here. Last night I confused the stations and went to the wrong one, some way off, having found, quite by accident, a cabman who drove me there, knowing the meeting; fortunately it turned out that he knew the other, and I got there a little late. I made a capital

Re htm to Paris. 229

use of ttis little incident in my address, speaking of this ’ fidele cocher’ as my guide, and leading on to the great need there was for all men to get acquainted with the Bible, the guide to Christ. There must have been about 170 people present, all listening most attentively. They have a choir of young j)eople who help much in the singing. The room is papered and lit up with gas. Altogether it looks quite inviting. The banner-texts on the walls make it different from a cafe, while it is not so like a church as to frighten away people.”

To his brother he writes about Paris, —

“Bordeaux, 20^/t Sejjtember, 1879.

“I am trying to wipe out scores of debts in the shape of letters; not so easy, as the atmosphere is peculiarly heavy here, and I came down rather tired from Paris.... The most of the mission people went up not many Saturdays ago to see the Catacombs; they cover an immense extent of ground under and perhaps beyond Paris. The passages were originally quarries of stone, which must have been tunnelled out rather than quarried. Every passage is full now of bones piled as high and higher than your head, and headed with skulls. Sometimes there are rows of skulls half way up. The passage admits of two walking side by side, and is never very low. A sort of acid smell pervades them, and it is a relief to get out. Here and there there are pillars and slabs, with sometimes verses of the Bible, very seldom expressing Christian hope or even sentiment, and passages from their poets, Lamartine, &c. After descending a good many steps — for the Catacombs are deep down — one comes on an inscription — ‘Arrete-toi, c’est ici I’Empire des morts.’ The silence is oppressive, and the surroundings are ghastly. Each of us had a candle lit, which shed a very sombre light on the scene, and only made it more horrible. The bones are collected from convents — (the skulls found there were high though generally narrow) — or from those killed in the Eevolution-fights; among ttese there were plenty whose skulls were ’ villanous low;’ and finally, some from cliurcliyards. After five years, unless a person lias bought up previously the piece of ground, all the bones are taken away to these Catacombs, and the graves used anew. This is strange, for the French people are constant visitors at their relations’ graves; — but Paris is a walled town, and won’t extend.”

On his return to Paris from Bordeaux we find the work going on as usual; his daily jottings showing us what it was. He mentions sometimes seven meetings a-week, sometimes nine, sometimes ten, sometimes eleven; once or twice he speaks of being laid down with severe headache, arising from over-work. He mentions a conversation with a poor Communist, another with an afflicted man who had lost his wife, another with a young man who had found peace in Christ. One entry on 8th April is this, “Lecture in the evening on religion of Primitive Aryans. Fair attendance.” These occasional lectures sometimes troubled him because of the want of time to get them up. He had to fall back on his old stores of knowledge. Revisiting these old stores awakened his longings after his college studies, and he would fain have resumed them. But he must not indulge himself. He puts them aside, and plunges into other work. On 9th May he writes,” Preached in Scotch Church on ‘My words shall not pass away.’ I was graciously sustained during the whole service, and in speaking

Rehcrn to Paris. 231

of the departed pastor, Mr. Paterson. Preached again in the afternoon. Thence to Trocadro. Returned home, and was so tired and ill with headache that I did not go to Grenelle. 18th. Called on Mrs. Paterson to say good-bye. Prayed with her. Felt it much. I miss Mr. Paterson every day.”*

With his friend, M. Paul Passy, he made evangelistic excursions into the villages at some little distance from Paris, and more than once fell in with infidel villagers, who, however, were soon won over into attention and kindness by his way of dealing with them. Thus he records one of these excursions: —

“13i/i. — Sunday. Meeting at St. Gemme; small, but interested: talk with people. Then went to Maladrerie de Beines. About 36 people came, inclined to laugh, &c. Infidels. Discussion with them. They took gospels; and when we passed through again in evening asked for more.

* I find I have omitted in the earher part of this chapter, a letter to his much esteemed friend, the Rev. Perry Keene of the Church of England. As it is quite a characteristic one, I give it here: —” I can act the Frenchman very fairly now, and can, among other accomplishments, take off my hat and make an elegant speech in respectable French during the performance of the drama, whether I am on street, stair, or carriage. But sometimes I lose my temper at the barefaced, smooth speeches and downright lying which prevails in certain classes of society here.... The heat here (Lyons) has been great. A veritable remnant of an eastern sirocco is the Vent du Midi. It traverses the Mediterranean and steals up the Rhone valley, arriving just beneath my windows. The street, therefore, is rightly named Q^ta de VEst.... We had a crowded hall and a strange sight; — they crowded up to the platform on which I was speaking. Last year many of them howled and shouted, and made me often despair. But Christian charity has a wonderful power;

Then went to Montainville; had a large crowded meeting; 100 men and women, serious, attentive, silent at prayer. (Could not even attempt prayer at Maladrerie.) People asked us to come -back. Gospels and Ami cheerfully taken. I thank God for this day.”

These are glimpses, no more. The reader must fill up the intervals for himself. With such specimens it will not be impossible to do this. It is still earnest work. He does not count it hard. But his life was busy and his hours all occupied. Perhaps he might have husbanded his time better, and saved his strength more than he often did. But he was only beginning the work. He was learning how to carry it on. He did not understand the economy of time and strength; and, before experience had taught him this, he was called away.

and the same unkempt, unwashed young men are there now most attentive listeners, and eager readers of the books in the hbrary. They don’t associate us with Protestantism; but consider us the people of no religion, that is, of no sect, I never saw such ignorance anywhere. It is dreadful. The heathen had something more, — the light of conscience. But Pome has obliterated that, I am filled with indignation when I see what Pome has done; it has hidden the one Book that is the foundation of the Church, has cursed it, burnt it and all who read it. I meet men who tell me that if they will only burn a candle-dip to the Virgin it will save their souls. Don’t let your grand old Church of England become a Church where sneaking fellows, in priestly garments, mumble over a half -hidden mass, in a way that can never be ’ understanded of the people.’ Won’t you come to Paris and stay with us? At night you shall go out with me and speak to the ouvriers. I’ll be security for your life among them. Only don’t bring your biretta and cope with you. Ccla est ddfendu.’”

He met daily with doubters; but his own doubts having been long since set at rest, he could use his full strength in loosing the bonds of others. He was patient with the questioners; and while he could hardly conceal his contempt for “frivolous Pyrrhonism,” or evasive deism at home, he would calmly listen to the wildest and blindest arguments of a Parisian unbeliever. Such a man’s subtleties tried his forbearance much less than the more refined and less honest subterfuges of theological unbelief among his own countrymen. For there is a certain amount of honesty, — call it the honesty of ignorance, — in the ideas of the Communist. He does not “vote blindfold like a monk of the Sorbonne” as the proverb used to run in Pascal’s days. He speaks what he has himself first believed, and is not slow in telling you what he does not believe. With such a man Mr. Dodds was always ready to meet; and from many such, he departed on the best of terms. They listened to him at first, perhaps, rudely, then gladly, then they opened their hearts to him, asking for a Bible, and entreatinsf him to return. Relioious affability, frankness, and sincerity of speech, were things unknown to them. Their experience had led them to the conclusion that these were impossibilities. But they had found in a foreigner what they had not in their own priesthood.