Sojourn at Griqua Town
The Moffats had gone thus far in uncertainty about their real position. The Governor had as yet withheld his assent to their settling at Lattakoo. They walked by faith. In a few weeks they continued their journey from Griqua Town with John Campbell. It was intended that Robert Moffat should take the place of James Read, who was to return to one of the Colonial stations. On their arrival at Lattakoo John Campbell went on to the north-east to visit the Bahurutse, a tribe two hundred miles distant, about whom much had been heard in consequence of their friendly relations with the Batlaping. He took with him Read, leaving the Moffats at Lattakoo to make the acquaintance of the people there. This journey to the Bahurutse country was really a surprising feat at the time. Campbell was a man with little physical endowment for playing the part of a pioneer explorer; but he was a simple and heroic soul, who went straight on wherever he saw duty, and left all troublesome questions to be settled by the Master he served.
He returned from the Bahurutse with a determination to press their claims for the early planting of a mission among them, and this object was kept in view until the convulsions of a few years later drove this and much else out of reach. The Bahurutse still exist as a tribe, though in vassalage to the Transvaal Boers, and their spiritual wants are ministered to by worthy men of a German Missionary Society.
When Campbell got back to Kuruman, he and the Moffats made an excursion westward to the scattered villages of the Batlaro, another Bechwana tribe, an offshoot of the Bahurutse. They had found their way down to the neighbourhood of the Batlaping, and were living on the border of the Kalahari desert.
These were the people with whom Moflfat had some slight intercourse before he left Namaqualand. Returning from the Batlaro, the unwelcome news reached them from the Cape that the desired permission had not been obtained; and as Mr. Campbell had now done all that he had to do, and was leaving, there was no alternative but for the Moffats to turn their steps southwards, which they did with heavy hearts. Read’s transfer to the Cape Colony was still to be carried out, so that Hamilton, not for the first or the last time, was left alone at Lattakoo. At Griqua Town a fresh message from the Colony met the travellers; the Government had yielded, and the way was now open to the Moffats to carry out their dearest wish.
“Lattakoo, South Africa, April Z, 1820. My beloved Father and Mother, — Now that I am here, and when I look back on the day on which I left my father’s house in full confidence that my heavenly Father would go with me, I am astonished. I was only seven months ‘twixt Dukinfield and Lattakoo, and never met with one disaster. What reason have you or we to adore that God who has heard our prayers, and has gone before me and made all things pleasant and comfortable? Yes, my dear parents, and in addition to all other favours. He has brought me to that place which, of all others in the world, was first fixed upon my heart as a place and a people amongst whom I should love to dwell and lend a helping hand to the work, nearly six years ago, when hearing our friend Mr. Campbell in Manchester. It was then I first dared, with tears in my eyes and an overflowing heart, to breathe the petition — Oh, that I might spend my days at Lattakoo! This doubtless was noticed by a heart- searching God, and so here am L I cannot tell you what I felt on approaching the spot, when I took a retrospect of all that had passed to bring me here. I could not but exclaim, Is not this the finger of God? You can hardly conceive how I feel when I sit in the house of God, surrounded with the natives; though my situation may be despicable and mean indeed in the eyes of the world, I feel an honour conferred upon me which the highest of the kings of the earth could not have done me; and add to this seeing my dear husband pandng for the salvation of the people with unabated ardour, firmly resolving to direct every talent which God has given him to their good and His glory. I am happy, remarkably happy, though the present place of my habitation is a single vestry-room, with a mud wall and a mud floor. It is true our sorrows and cares we must have, and, in a degree, have them now from existing circumstances at the station; but is it not our happiness to suffer in this cause? It is one of the trials of missionaries to bear such long silences from their friends. Poor Mrs. Helm has not had a letter for five years I I long to hear from you, to know how you all are, but do not expect till the people return from the fair at Beaufort, which will be the latter end of May. Many Bootsuanas, as well as Griquas, are gone this time. I hope you are perfectly easy about me, and do not consider me deader lost. I wrote to you from Beaufort. We arrived at Griqua Town on the 13th of March. I did not find things there quite as good as expectation, but must say great things have been done. The indolence of the people is a formidable obstacle in the way of civilization. There are some, however, who do well, and some of the places belonging to the rich captains assume the appearance of English farms. Decent houses, a waggon before the door, plenty of oxen, poultry, dogs, &c., about, and good cultivated ground, and very respectably clothed; they make good appearance at the church, which is often full, and it is about the size of the old preaching-room at Salford.
“I forgot to say how we got over the Orange River. It was but very low, and all our waggons were over in half an hour. This will appear to you a happy circumstance, when I tell you at the same time last year Mrs. Hamilton was nine weeks waiting on the other side, and one week in the act of getting over with one waggon! Some parts of this time the rain was descending in such torrents that she could not tell whether the waggon was in the river or out of it. It is a majestic stream, and on the banks are woods of the mimosa and a species of willow. There is a greater variety of greens than I have seen since I came to Africa, and much more pleasing to the eye. We travelled along the banks three days before we crossed. We were met with oxen and men from Griqua Town, they having heard of our approach. After spending a week there, we proceeded to this place, four long days’ journey. I do not recollect being so fatigued since I left the Cape. We were obliged to make long stages on account of there being no water between. The last outspan place was the source of the Kuruman River. It is a vast rock, which appears to have been terribly convulsed some time or other, forming curious caves, and on every side the most beautiful water that ever I saw (except at Greenfield) gushing out. I went into the principal cave thar is accessible, and went nearly knee-deep in water as clear as crystal. The top of the cave is lined with bats, and in some directions we heard waters rushing like a torrent. The sound came along the subterraneous passages. I should have imagined that a mighty river would have flowed from such a spring, but it is very small. The country between Griqua Town and here abounds in fine-looking grass, but not good; in low mountains, but few trees.
“On our entrance to this place I was pleased. I thought the landscape resembled that of England, the cornfields and gardens being very pleasing, and here and there trees scattered; trees are not seen in general in Africa, except on the banks of the rivers. I have not yet seen a wood equal to the one above the Nursery.
“I think there is already timber there superior to any I have seen in the uncultivated parts of Africa. Upon the whole, as a country, I am greatly disappointed. It is my opinion that the new settlers will be deceived if they expect a fat land. Were I choosing a country, either for a comfortable livelihood or pleasure, it should be old England still. The extreme scarcity of water, and in many parts firewood, render people’s comfort very precarious. If the periodical rains fail they sometimes reap less than they sow. In this part everything that is sown must be greatly assisted with water, or it would do no good at all. The cattle are sent to different outposts where there is water. The source of the Kuruman is the principal place, and there they are subject to the depredations of the Bushmen, who are very daring indeed. The cattle are watched by Bootsuanas and some who are half Bushmen through intermarrying, but, notwithstanding this, a large number of the cattle are carried off.
“It is really a pity that no hold can be laid on these men. They do deserve punishment, but that the innocent should perish with the guilty is hard. The Bootsuanas have, since the missionaries came, renounced the practice of going against other people unprovoked. They only plead now that they defend themselves, and to this no one can object; it certainly is a great attainment to bring them to this, as all the nations beyond partly live by robbing each other. This, however, makes them very exacting from us, as they have done it by our advice.
“There are no appearances of real piety among this people but in one woman who is blind; she is in church fellowship. The attendance is irregular. Sometimes the church looks well with numbers of them, and sometimes the benches are nearly empty. They seem to think they do us a favour by coming. The school is miserable. There is no girls’ school, and I almost doubt the practicability of it, as the women here do all the men’s work, and the men the women’s.
“One great impediment here is not having the language. Not one of our friends here can converse surely with the natives. All is done through an interpreter, one of those who has lived at Griqua Town. They are good-tempered people in general, happy and easy, dance and sing a good deal. The strong man armed keeps his house in peace, but we hope ere long to see one stronger than he take possession. They have curious notions about God. They make Him the author of everything evil. If it rain when they don’t wish it, they ask why God does so; if the ground is parched, the same.
“Mary Moffat.”
In a letter to his parents, dated from Griqua Town the eighteenth of September, Robert Moffat writes:
“On the fifth day after our departure from Griqua Town we arrived at Lattakoo, and found all the friends there well. We were soon introduced to Moteebe, the king, who seemed very much pleased at our arrival. We were soon visited by a retinue of chiefs, with people who, of course, were anxious to see the strangers. To Mr. C. and myself the sight was not new, having been amongst them before, but to Mary it was; indeed their manner, appearance, and dress must greatly interest any one, and especially my dear Mary, whose hopes had been so long directed towards that people. After remaining three weeks settling the affairs of the mission, Mr. Campbell set off on a journey nearly north-east, lie took Mr. Read with him, deeming it of importance that I should remain with a view to ingratiate myself into the affections of Moteebe and his people.
“After two months Mr, C. returned, having visited some nations, properly tribes, hitherto unexplored. We remained a week together, when Mr. C, Mr. R., my wife and self, set off on a journey to the westward along the bed of the Kuruman River. We visited many towns of the Bootsuanas, in which Mr. Campbell and myself alternately preached to the benighted inhabitants the word of life. Our journey extended to Lehaise’s town, the most westerly of the Bootsuanas, lying on the east side of that great desert which separates Namaqualand from them. The inhabitants here never having been visited by white people before, made our visit the more interesting to them, who of course received us as curiosities, especially Mary, who got plenty to stare at her and her dress. They have often sat nearly the whole of the day gazing upon our movements, and especially our sitting together at table when dining in the tent; or using knives and forks, plates and different dishes, was such a sight they had never seen before or heard of. In one of our interviews with Lehaise, the old chief was asked if he would like to have a missionary with him to inform him and his people of the things of God. This grave, aged, and well-looking man answered very seriously: Yes! if the missionaries could tell him how he could become a young man again. He also added that if missionaries came he was not able to sing.
“Such was the judgment he formed of the missionaries; and oh, how affecting! The subject of his answers was explained, and he seemed to approve of missionaries coming among them.
“Taking a circuitous road on our return, we fell in with some Koranna kraals. They differ materially in manners and dress from the Bootsuanas, through residing very near them. To obtain water for themselves and their cattle they dig down in the beds of periodical rivers to the depth of twenty-five feet. By means of five men standing at a suitable height from each other they hand the water up in a wooden bowl; and this requires to be done daily.
“After an absence of little more than a fortnight we arrived safely at Lattakoo. Shortly after, we had letters from Ur, Philip informing us that permission had not yet been obtained from the Governor for me to remain at Lattakoo. Nothing now remained but to return. We all felt acutely, as our hopes and designs were completely thwarted. We were obliged, however, to submit to the powers that be, and to look to Him who has the hearts of .all men in His hand, and to say, ‘The Lord reigneth.’
‘* After suitable preparations, we, including Mr. Read and family, took our departure from Lattakoo — nor could we help being affected on leaving a country where the harvest was great and labourers so few — Mr Hamilton being left alone with a Griqua assistant and a few Hottentots. A remarkable circumstance took place just before we left. Previous to our leaving the Cape I wrote to Christian (Jager) Afrikaner to meet me at Griqua Town or Lattakoo, and bring my cattle and property with him; which he did, and arrived, as above, just when we were preparing to return. I was happy to see them, and to
6o JOHN CAMPBELLS DEPARTURE.
hear that all went on well in Namaqualand, To his honour I would just add that my books and articles of furniture were in good order. Particular attention had been paid to these, as well as to my cattle and sheep, during my long absence. Such was the conduct of the once plundering Afrikaner, conduct in every respect becoming a Christian. He stated his regret at my being taken from them, and his wish to remove to a situation near my destination, which was to us at that juncture unsettled.
“We returned by another road from Lattakoo, in order to see a fountain which might afterwards become a station for the Bushmen. While we were at the said fountain, some of these unfortunate people, whose interest we were seeking, came during the night and set off with four of our cattle. They were pursued in the morning, but in vain. The pursuers, however, caught one man and a boy, who were more or less engaged in the theft. These were brought to the waggons, and our people had much to do to keep the few Bootsuanas who were with us from plunging their assegais into them — such is the abhorrence which the Bootsuanas have to that despised and forlorn people. But it is also to be observed that the Bootsuanas suffer greatly from their depredations, which so exasperates them that they spare neither man nor woman nor child.
“The prisoners alluded to, especially the eldest, expected nothing but death, but we let him go after giving him a sufficient number of stripes.
“To proceed on our journey. Afrikaner left us when we were half way to Griqua Town, to take a nearer route home. When we were near Griqua Town we received a letter from the Rev. Mr. Faure of Graaff Reinett, informing us that permission was granted for me to proceed to my destination. This was unexpected but pleasing information. The same letters also informed us that he, in company with the Landdrost of Graaff Reinett, was on his way to Griqua Town and Lattakoo.
“We came here and awaited the arrival of Mr. Stockenstrom, the Landdrost, whose object was to investigate the political concerns of this people, which had hitherto been in a state of confusion.”
When Mr. Stockenstrom had done his work among the Griquas, he prevailed upon Moffat to go with him on a visit to Lattakoo. It had been decided that for a few months he should remain at Griqua Town to set the affairs of that town in order, before he availed himself of the Government permission to settle at Lattakoo. John Campbell was now to take his departure. To the Moffats it was an affecting occasion. They had been in his company as fellow-travellers many months, and he had singularly endeared himself to them.
Fifty years afterwards Moffat wrote to a son of Robert Philip of Kingsland, John Campbell’s successor, who had sent him as a relic the snuffbox of his old friend:
JOHN CAMPBELLS SNUFF-BOX. 6i
“I must now thank you for the late good old Johnny Campbell’s snufif-box. Of course I could not but know it, having travelled so much with him in our dear Africa. I prize it exceedingly, and feel honoured in possessing it, and will care for it being cared for, after getting engraved on it from whence I received it. John Campbell, his name is fragrant. The very sight of the box brought to mind great and little incidents of long bygone years. I have often seen him, when perplexed, take out his snuff-box, take a pinch, and sometimes two if the subject was weighty, and in the tent, or outside of the tent, or on the other side of a thin partition, he might be heard to say, ‘Oh I never was in such a world as this I ‘More delightful society and a better fellow-traveller than Mr. Campbell could not be desired. Many, many nights, to avoid the heat of the sun, we travelled together in one waggon for company, and he was wont to interest us (Mrs. M. and self) with anecdotes almost without end, all bearing on what was good, and many of which had reference to the course of Christ’s kingdom in our own and in foreign lands.”