A Scientific Expedition

Early in 1835 an expedition reached Kuruman. At the head of it was Dr. Andrew Smith. He was accompanied by several English assistants and by an officer and a if men of the 98th Regiment, making up a somewhat imposing party, and a caravan of seven waggons. The object was scientific, being promoted by the members of an association at the Cape with a little assistance from Government.

Dr. Smith found the Moffats in great trouble. The summer had been unusually hot, and this circumstance, combined with exhaustion from overwork, had prostrated the missionary with a severe attack of bilious fever: from which he had scarcely recovered when his wife was brought very near the gates of death. After the birth of a son on the tenth of March she seemed to be better, but soon relapsed into a state of such debility that for many days there seemed no hope. It was a special subject of thankfulness that at such a time there should have been on the spot a medical man of Dr. Andrew Smith’s skill; and that, too, exercised with such tender care and assiduity as might have been looked for in a dear brother rather than in a comparative stranger. It was the beginning of a lifelong friendship, for the Moffats could never forget the man who had come to them like an angel out of heaven in their time of trouble.

The members of the expedition were for some months engaged in the country round Kuruman; but as the doctor’s main object was to get farther into the interior, he prevailed upon Moffat to accompany him as far as Mosilikatse’s headquarters. He left about the tenth of May: His main object was of course to aid the expedition, but he had other important matters in view. The new

church, the stone walls of which had long been raised to their full height, could not be roofed with such timber as was to be obtained about Kuruman. From what he had seen on his former visit to IIosilikatse he was convinced that what was required was to be obtained in the dominions of that chief. There was also a prospect of the American missionaries seeking a place in which to work, and he felt that he might be the means of preparing the way for them in Mosilikatse’s country. All these considerations overcame his reluctance to leave his work at Kuruman and his wife scarcely recovered. The following extracts formed only a small part of a copious journal giving a minute account of each day’s proceedings. The first quotation is dated from Motito, the station of the French missionaries, near to which Mahura, the brother of Mothibi, had settled with a part of the Batlaping tribe, which had formerly lived on the Kuruman river until broken up by wars:

“MoTiTO, August 13, 1835.

“My dear Mary, — Though it is now late I must write a few lines, lest I be too busy to write to-morrow morning. Yesterday afternoon I wrote to you by two men, Batlaro returning to the Kuruman on horseback. I shall now give you a brief account of what has transpred since. After a very short night’s rest, I left this at an early hour to visit Mahura, who lives as far again as Letakong is from Motito. As the object of the visit was of some importance, I had many cogitations on my way thither. He received me well, and I soon stated one of the objects of my visit, namely, to obtain Mosilikatse’s oxen. He gave the reasons why he had not brought them, the chief of which was that he had been falsely charged with having stolen them from Mosilikatse. He said this continued to annoy him beyond anything. I pointed out the propriety as well as the necessity of his returning the cattle, both for his own sake and for that of the country. I had scarcely finished my argument when he instantly ordered a man to proceed to the outpost, and to have the oxen forthcoming at Motito by this evening or to-morrow morning. This was one point gained.

“The next thing was that I was sorry and surprised at the misunderstanding between him and Dr. Smith, and that he had not visited him since his return to Motito. He said in reply to this, that when the doctor was last at Motito he promised on his return from the Kuruman to visit him and see the hills, and examine the different stones. That, instead of fulfilling his promise, he only heard that he would not come because he was very angry with him. I admitted that if the doctor promised he ought to have sent a reason for not coming, and added that the doctor was certainly much grieved with his threatcnings to hinder the party and the interpreter from proceeding on the journey. He said he would like well if the doctor would point out any one who had heard him say such things. I said something more on the propriety of his having a good understanding with the doctor. I then asked him to accompany me to Motito. He said he would yield to my request, and immediately sent off for his horses, stating that if they did not come in time he would follow. This was a second point gained.

“Of success in the third object of my visit I despaired, namely, his intended attack on the Batlaro. However, the subject was introduced, and I stated to him all that I had heard on the subject. He replied that all was true. That his full determination was to punish the Batlaro for their insolence. He had a long string of complaints, to which I remarked that if these things were true he certainly had cause to be offended, but no reason to go to war. I said the Bech- •wanas were a nation of liars, and that any beggar would bring him such reports merely to get a bone to pick: that if he went to war on these grounds I should ever view him as a fool, and incapable of government. I proposed to him what he ought to do, namely to call the chiefs of the Batlaro to account or visit them, hold a pitso, and hear the sentiments of the principal men. I said a great deal to him on the horrors of war. I told him to throw a burning coal into the grass and tell me when the burning would end: that attacking the Batlaro was like attacking the Kuruinan station, which had been the means of saving himself and the country. After I had done speaking — for I had spoken long and earnestly on the subject — he paused for some time. He said he was glad he had heard me on that subject, and he would endeavour to do what I had recommended. This was the third point aimed at. You cannot think how grateful I felt. After partaking of thick milk I left, and arrived here about three o’clock.”

“Maoto a Ts^PE, May 17, 1835. — Nothing of any interest occurred on the road. Nothing to be seen but an extensive plain covered with long grass, and a few camel-thorn trees and bushes. I ordered my waggon forward in the long train at a distance from the gentlemen, in order that I might be alone and get a nap, but I could not get a wink of sleep. However, I had the more time to read. The evening was pleasant, and the whole camp seemed as cheerful as a hive of bees in midsummer. I spent most of the evening in the tent with the doctor and the young gents, and also Mr. Kift, who is more cheerful company than I had supposed.

“I proposed to the doctor that he, or rather Mr. Bell the chaplain, should read a short sermon in English for the few who did not understand Dutch and Sechwana. He objected, stating that most of them knew a little Dutch. We had the Dutch in the forenoon and the Sechwana in the afternoon, and as all attended I had good congregations — and who knows but that the seed sown may yet grow. May the Lord grant His blessing. This evening I found that the English do not understand a Dutch sermon, at least but a very few sentences; and therefore, the Lord willing, I shall next Sabbath have a service for them also.

“I continue to admire Dr. Smith more than ever. He sets an excellent example to his men and is not only willing but anxious for their instruction in the things of God. All the English, if I except Dr. Smith and one or two more, swear, and some do it to no oidinary f 30 MI LIT A R Y VERSUS MISSION A R V TAC TICS.

degree, but they are all cunning enough to take care that I never hear them. I am glad, however, to be informed this evening by Messrs. Hume and Scoon, that they have just written out an ajreement that for every oath the swearer pays a fine of half a stick of tobacco. Tennant is to be the treasurer. I am quite rejoiced to hear this, and pray that the plan may succeed; and it is very likely, as all have put their names to it and tobacco is precious.

“The sentry walks for two hours, and six are appointed for each night. Dicky had the first watch to-night, from eight to ten, and the second watch has just commenced. Every ten minutes or a quarter of an hour the sentry shouts that all is well. I hope it will be the same song till we return.

“Now I must return to last night, and tell you that when I was sitting by a roaring fire, taking my last puff for the day, I jumped for joy to hear them calling out ‘Matlolanyane.’ I soon got hold of the packet of letters, and instantly read yours, with a heart full of gratitude to God for His continued favour toward you. I handed it to the doctor, who I am sure read it with almost equal pleasure.”

“Maritsane, Sabbath, May 24//^ — Have had a quiet and peaceable Sabbath. The forenoon service was in Dutch. After dinner I read to the English a service on the importance of Divine knowledge. In the evening I addressed the Bechwana. It may be that what was said about eternal things may prove like bread cast upon the waters. Many have left the land of light on which the Sun of Righteousness shone with almost meridian splendour, and have found a Saviour in a land of pagan darkness where but a few glimmering rays were darting on the gloom. The day has been very serene, but the night is cold.

“I think I mentioned in my last that the English swearers had unanimously agreed to pay a half-stick of tobacco for every oath. It was on a Sabbath, and when the characters are considered one will forgive such a contract on such a day. Next day’s produce was seventeen and a half sticks, equal to thirty-five oaths. The most notorious lost only one and a half stick. The number of fines decreased so rapidly that the treasurer is out of employ, except keeping what he has got. I comfort them by saying that they will have all the fewer oaths to account for in the day of judgment.’’

“MOLOPO, Friday, May 2()ih. — We have been here all day. Have been employed most of the time translating. The wind being cold I had frequent interruptions. No messengers have yet arrived from Mosilikatse. In the afternoon the doctor seemed a little anxious, and of course conjectures followed. Towards evening the waggons were removed from the form of a crescent to that of a waggon fortification, with all the oxen on one side enclosed with a fence. When the plan was proposed I gave my plain unvarnished refusal. Hume and Scoon were also much opposed, particularly on account of the oxen, which were comparatively exposed to the lion, as the fence would prove a mere shadow if they were once frightened by him. The excuse the doctor made to Monahcng was that he feared for the men’s lives, and he stated at the same tune to me that he was bound down to take every precaution for the safety of his people. Of course we submitted, but not cheerfully.

“As soon as it became dark the lions began to drive the dogs back to the fence, and had nearly frightened the oxen out of their enclosure. Port fires and blue lights were burned, and a party went out with guns enough to blow him to pieces; but ‘Tau ’ knew how to take care of himself, and of course eluded the short-lived moonshine. The oxen are still very restless. The bell is constantly ringing, and I fear the night’s serenading will not be a conducive to sleep.

“Saturday, May 30/A. — Most of those who had cares slept veiy little and uncomfortably, anxious about the oxen. However, through the goodness and mercy of our God, no evil was suffered to befall us. The forepart of the day was excessively cold, with flying clouds and a strong wind from the S.E. Monaheng told me early that as the doctor was afraid of proceeding he should go forward. I replied, ‘Good, and I shall go with you.’ I accordingly stated the circumstance to the doctor. He objected to my going. I then said, ‘Some one else must go; ’ and in ten minutes Andries, Baba, and Boy, with Monaheng, the latter in regimental coat, started off on horseback. They had scarcely gone halfway before they met five Matebele coming post-haste to meet us. The horsemen returned, and the rest followed and came here in the afternoon. The Induna is an old acquaintance of mine, and seemed not a little pleased to get hold of my fist again. We learned the following particulars. Mosilikatse was living beyond the Marikwa River, and many of the people had been carried off by a sickness hitherto unknown to them.”

“MOSEGA, June 2. — We arrived here early in the evening. The variety of country, the first part undulating, with a bold range of hills or mountains before us adorned with wood, especially the glens, the valleys showing signs of an abundant harvest, rendered the short stage very delightful compared to the country through which we had been passing before, and especially with so many fine streams running rapidly along the fertile vales. I walked the latter part of the stage, and when we came to the first village the doctor joined me. We passed four considerable villages. As you may conceive, twelve waggons excited considerable interest; but I am sure you would have laughed as heartily as we did to see how much they were astonished at my long beard. Many a ram-race was taken to obtain a front view. I am sure no wild beast in Exeter Exchange could have excited more wonder.

“After halting, the doctor proposed to make a kraal for the oxen. This I did not approve of, as there was a comparatively empty kraal capable of holding two thousand cattle quite contiguous, and the Matebele would most cheerfully give them lodging for a few nights; that for my own part I should send my oxen thither, and that Mr. Hume I believed would do the same. After a good deal of persuasion, he at length agreed.

“The doctor’s waggons are again placed in the form of a square, the entrance of his own facing the centre, into which I could not go without climbing over the wheels or going under the waggon. A little before sunset the doctor again called me aside, and said that sending the oxen to the kraal referred to was placing ourselves too much in the power of the natives, and that he was not inclined to risk it. I argued that it was in the power of the natives to take our oxen almost all the hours of the day, it being impossible for them to find grass within sight of the waggons, and that giving over our cattle to their care and placing almost unbounded confidence in their friendship would of itself disarm them of any evil intentions; but I did not believe that they had any such intentions. No one had seen the slightest mark of it. I never once contemplated danger from that Quarter, or I should not have come myself or have recommended others. With many more remarks of a similar kind, the doctor was persuaded to let his oxen go with mine. He has a greater charge than any one of us, and is of course under a greater responsibility. He is indefatigable in research, and will do great things and throw light on those parts of the country over which he travels; but all men do not see alike.”

“June ith. — Kalepe having returned this morning, told us it was Mosilikatse’s wish that we should go to his present residence beyond the Marikwa River. This message was perfectly agreeable to our wishes, and set all in motion; but we halted at the mouth of the kloof, about three hours and a half from Mosega, fearing to go farther into the thicket on account of lions. Fine grass and abundance of water, the Mainelwe River carrying off all the drainage of the half a dozen streams which take their rise to the west, of which Mamuri and Marimane are the most distant. There are also sea-cows in the river a little farther down.”

“Monday June %th. — In the evening Kalepe told me that he was going forward early to-morrow morning, and I must follow. Monaheng again came into the tent, and said it was the wish of Mosilikatse that I should precede the waggons on horseback. I objected, preferring to ride in my waggon. We conferred some time, and then I told him I should likely go, and that he must be ready to accompany me. I told the doctor what had passed. He, as I expected, opposed my leaving the waggons. I stated that my chief reason for acceding to Mosilikatse’s wish was to show him that I was entirely what I was before — that is, void of fear. Should I not go, he might think I could not trust him now as I once did, and of course our friendship would be broken, and the whole party would as a consequence suffer more or less. To suspect danger appeared to me like a childish mania, and to act towards such a tyrant according to the doctor’s system would certainly create suspicion.

“I also argued that if Mosilikatse seriously intended to do us harm, he would have numerous opportunities when he could destroy the whole party. A soldier, of course, will not admit this, however clear it may be to others. As I had engaged to take the party to Mosilikatse with a promise of his attention and friendship, the inference was clear that I must be allowed to take my own way in obtaining the same. I left the doctor silenced, but not convinced; for after I left the tent he resumed the subject with Scoon, but he said he wished w ith all his heart for me to go forward. Mr. Hume was of the same mind.

“ToLANE River, Tuesday, <^th. — The Indunas, Kalepe, &c. left for Mosilikatse before sunrise. I, with Monaheng, Andries, and Younker, left on horseback just when the waggons were starting, and reached this place in about three hours.

“Mosilikatse was bathing in the river, but he soon marched up with a kind of bodyguard singing. The moment he entered the kraal he stretched out his hand, hastened up to me and seized me by mine. He did not speak, but gazed on me for a time as if I had dropped from the clouds.

“At length he repeated my name two or three times, and said, * Now my eyes see you, my heart is white as milk.’ This he repeated again and again, laying hold of my hand and stroking my beard. He called me to the side of the kraal, where we sat down, and the warriors began their songs. He seemed as if he could not help laying his hand first on one of my shoulders and then on the other, and sometimes taking a lock of my beard in his hand. During the intervals in the singing I conversed with him about the objects of my journey, and about those who had accompanied me.

“We sat together till the waggons came, when I went to point out a place for the encampment. I returned with the doctor and four others to introduce them to the chief.”

In the course of a few days it was arranged that Dr. Smith, with the major part of the expedition, should go on to the north-east and return. The traders, Messrs. Hume and Scoon, also left on a hunting expedition to the northward; so that Robert Moffat was left comparatively alone at headquarters. It would be impossible to give anything more than a mere index of the copious journal which it was his solace to write during the two months thus spent, for the benefit of the wife who was watching for news at Kuruman. The extracts which have already been given bear largely upon one point. The principle upon which his whole life among natives was based was that of implicit mutual confidence. It was the secret of much of his success. It was of course a little difficult to inspire the leader of an expedition which had a strong military ingredient with a similar confidence. In time, however, the good doctor threw off his strategical shell, and became as contented and as safe among the Matebele as could be desired, and got rid of the strange and unaccountable delusion which possesses the minds of so many otherwise rational white men — that their black neighbours are, as a matter of course, ever on the watch for an opportunity to cut their throats.

The expedition was accorded full liberty to come and to go in any part of the wide extent of country then under the rule of Mosilikatse; and it speaks well for its conduct and discipline that, during the long stay of this party of between twenty and thirty white men of very different grades in life, not a single serious misunderstanding or act of injury seems to have occurred.

By the removal of Dr. Smith to the scene of his researches in what is now the Transvaal, near Rustenburg and Pretoria, Moffat was left free to attend to other objects which he had in view in visiting the chief of the Matebele. First and foremost was it his work to try, as on his former visit, to instil into the dark mind of (he savage despot at least some gleams of religious truth — a work of great difficulty in the case of one who lived as he did, the object of almost idolatrous adoration on the part of all who came near him. Little could be done in this way, but a path was opened and made easy for the advent of the Americian missionaries who it was hoped would come.

Another object was to find in the country timber such as would be suitable for the roof of the Kuruman church. In this Moffat was entirely successful, and that roof still stands a monument of the united work of Hamilton, Moffat, and Edwards — an achievement, in those days and with such means as they possessed, of no ordinary character.

An endeavour was also made to procure from Mosilikatse the return of two Griqua children who had been captured on the outskirts of his country from a hunting party. He had been much harassed by the depredations of Griqua and Koranna marauders, and he could not be prevailed upon to give up the captives until he should have some guarantee that he should in future be exempted from such attacks; and on the same ground he refused to return two waggons belonging to an English gentleman of the name of Bain, who had, unfortunately for himself, been mistaken for one of these marauders.

“Kuruman, Ju7ie 2~,th.

“My dear Robert, — Another day is far advanced, and we hear nothing of you. Shampan arrived this morning, and knows nothing. Once more I begin to feel that ’ hope deferred maketh the heart sick.’ The brethren advise me to wait till Monday, and then to send to you.

“You will doubtless be anxious to hear something about the Americans, but we cannot tell you much, and shall send you all the correspondence respecting them. Late in the last month Moses and his wife were on a visit, and brought us intelligence of their being at

Griqua Town, and a letter from Mr. Lindley, which I showed to our brethren and we were all of opinion that they could not do better than to send one of their number to visit the Matebele while you were there; and a letter was immediately despatched giving them such advice, and offering them oxen to take them on. They did not, however, fall in with the plan, as you will see from their reply, and of course we could do no more.

“As far as we can gather from all sources, it is their intention to stop here some time in order to become familiar with the language.

“I must now give some account of this place and neighbourhood. All is well as far as I know outwardly, but there has been a necessity for church discipline. The congregations are exceedingly large ever since you went, and the brethren never so much encouraged with appearances among the Batlaro. The numbers who attend are great, and there is considerable emotion among them such as was never before observed. We have also good news from Mothibi’s place. Our people on their late visit found them in a good frame of mind. They appear to be in earnest about coming to the Kuruman. Mothibi wishes you to send him a waggon to help him to come. Our people held service with them on the Sabbath, and many were much affected.

“Mahatlane had much conversation with them, and appears to have made very sensible remarks to them; and he represents them as quite broken in spirit, and as regarding themselves as dogs before those who have embraced the gospel. Mothibi says he now sees that he has had great privileges and has despised them, that the gospel is now going past them to the interior tribes, and that he is living in deep darkness. So you will see our hopes are reviving about the Batlaping.

“My dear Robert, thus far I wrote on Thursday evening, fondly hoping to hear something of you before this, but still all is darkness, and this is Sabbath evening. Some Bahurutse from Taung arrived yesterday, and tell a story which must be old. They say that a youth of theirs made his escape from the Matebele, and tells that the waggons had all arrived at the Molopo, and that you had sent messengers forward to apprise Mosilikatse of your approach; that when he heard this he had packed up and fled further, apprehending danger. This is all we can hear, except one other report which said you had left the waggons at Mosega, and were gone on alone.

“I have now come to the conclusion to send Melomo and another with the little news we have, that you may be no longer kept in suspense, whatever we are. I continue to hope for the best, though I feel very impatient to hear in what circumstances you have been placed. I am aware that your situation is a critical one, and one of considerable responsibility, and therefore I was the more anxious that one of the Americans should have gone to you. I have felt much for you and sympathized with you, and trust that the Mighty Counsellor has been with you to direct as well as to protect you and those who are with you.

“For my own part I do not experience less support on this occasion than on former ones, believing that He who has hitherto been so gracious to us will yet be so, notwithstanding our unfaithfulness to Him. I again assert that I never trusted God in vain, but have often suffered loss by my distrust and unbelief. I do, however, feel it necessary to prepare my heart for further trials, as I have always done under our separations, anticipating at times the most painful occurrences, and have frequently found that such anticipations are a means of deepening a sense of the Divine goodness when we were again permitted to meet.

“I have this day considered the Ninety-first Psalm, and have read Scott and Clarke on it, and am much comforted by it.”

In the course of the month of August Moffat returned to Kuruman, to be followed shortly after by the expedition. All the available waggons and oxen which could be mustered on the station started under the care of Hamilton and Edwards, to obtain the timber of the existence of which Moffat had satisfied himself. It was a great undertaking. The woodcutters had to travel to a distance of two hundred and fifty miles; but they were not men to be deterred by difficulties, and they enjoyed a great advantage in the cordial approval of the chief, and in such assistance as his people were capable of giving.