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TheWay Library › The Lives of Robert and Mary Moffat › Chapter V: Life in Namaqualand

by John S. Moffat

Chapter V

Life in Namaqualand

PvOBERT Moffat’s stay in Namaqualand extended to a little over twelve months, and only a part of that time was spent in residence at the station. Before he had been many days on the spot, he saw that it was not a place for permanent settlement and progress. A long journey was soon undertaken to the north, in which he was accompanied by most of the able-bodied men of the tribe and by their chief. The result of their journey was to put an end to any hope of a settlement in that quarter, and the thoughts of Afrikaner were drawn eastward across the Kalahari to the country of the Bechwana, with whom he had enjoyed some friendly intercourse. The missionary, with a select party on horseback, made a journey in that direction, reaching Griqua Town and Lattakoo. On his return to Afrikaner he found that Mr. Ebner, the only other missionary in Namaqualand north of the Orange River, was leaving the country, so that he was left completely alone. In the intervals of his long absences from his station he carried on such missionary work as was possible — conducting a school, and raising a place of worship. Towards the end of the year he saw reason to visit Cape Town in company with the chief, and there he met Dr. Philip and John Campbell, who had come out as a deputation from the Missionary Society.

It will not be necessary to go into much detail about Afrikaner. Ilis history is told by Moffat himself in his “Labours and Scenes.” Suffice to say here, that he was a man who had escaped from vassalage in the Cape Colony, and having his own family as a nucleus, with a following of other refugees had crossed the Orange River, and established himself in what is known as Great Namaqualand Here he carried on for years a system of predatory warfare. His enemies were twofold — the farmers within the Colony, and the Namaquas, of a race kindred to his own, in whose country he had settled as an unwelcome intruder. He managed to strike terror into them all, and to make himself of so much importance that a large reward was offered for his head by the Government of the Cape Colony.

After many years he came under the influence of the earlier missionaries, more especially of Christian Albrecht, a man of more than ordinary character and apostolic zeal; and on the occasion of John Campbell’s first visit to South Africa, negotiations were commenced which ended in his consenting to receive a missionary. A Mr. Ebner was at once sent to take up the work until the promised missionary should arrive from Europe, and he would probably have remained but for a certain want of harmony between him and some of Afrikaner’s people; so that as soon as he saw the post filled he took his departure, and the young missionary was left quite alone.

Vredeburg, as it was called, was a collection of huts in a small valley, bounded by bare rocks on either side. A spring rose in the upper part of the valley, which in times of heavy rain — say once in two or three years — swelled into a flood, filled the river bed, and covered the levels on either side, so that the people had for a few days to move their huts nearer to the rocks. There were many large mimosa trees, which gave a pleasant look to the place, and redeemed it from the utter dreariness of the barren plains which stretched around for many miles.

The huts in which the people lived were as movable as tents. They were formed of long tapering wands, planted in a circle, then bent over and tied together so as to form a cage, and on this were fastened rush mats, packed more or less thickly according to the means of the owner, and admitting less or more rain accordingly. As rain fell very seldom, and as in that country to get wet was a mere refreshing novelty, this was not a serious inconvenience. The dust and the heat were the worst plagues. There was one opening large enough to crawl in at, and this sufficed for door and window, and for that matter chimney too, when a fire was lighted within. In a hut of this kind the missionary lived during his sojourn with Afrikaner, His efforts to obtain comfort must have met with but partial success. He lived principally upon milk and dried meat, until latterly he was able to raise a little grain and garden stuff.

For the best part of the year he did not see the face of a fellow countryman, or hear a word in his mother tongue. Happily he was in entire sympathy with the chief and his brothers. Not only could they enjoy the mutual confidence of fellow Christians, but a strong personal friendship sprang up, and from the first Robert Moffat exerted a charm over Christian Afrikaner, which it was given to him to exert over many others afterwards. Even Titus, the brother who stood out against the gospel, was amenable to his personal influence, and devoted to his interests.

Moffat went to work earnestly, and soon had a flourishing school. Meanwhile a building was being raised for a church on a diff’erent scale from that of the beehive huts. But the temporal condition of the people was miserable, and there never could be much progress in civilization or industry with such surroundings. The missionary and the chief were of one mind in the conviction that no lasting settlement was to be thought of in that part of the country. The scanty spring gave water enough for the irrigation of only a small bit of ground, which would not supply food for one-fifth of the few hundreds of people belonging to Afrikaner, and yet it was the only spot available for many miles around. So in June we find them starting with a large following of the able-bodied men to explore the country northward, in search of something better. This journey took nearly two months, and ended in nothing. No better country was to be found in that direction, so far as they went, without entering a region where the hostility of other Namaquas might be looked for; so the idea was abandoned. In those thinly peopled regions, the few Bushmen and scattered Namaquas whom they found were sunk into a brutish degradation which stirred the heart of the young missionary, and instead of repelling rather quickened his zeal.

Space would not suffice for even extracts of his journals, but the following letter will give a view of this part of his life:

•’ Vredeburg, Dec. 15, 1818.” My dear Father and Mother, — I feel ashamed whenl recollect that I have not communicated to you a single syllable since the eighth of April last. But on the other hand, when I call to mind the different scenes through which I have passed since that period, and how my time has been taken up, I think myself almost excusable. In the month of June I commenced a long journey to the northward as far as the Fish River, accompanied by the chief and his principal people; our object was to find a more suitable place to form an institution, but after enduring many hardships we returned after two months, disappointed in the object of our journey. A short time afterwards I came to a conclusion to undertake a journey to Griqua Town to see a place which the Griquas had offered to Afrikaner. The approach of the warm season induced me to take the journey immediately. I accordingly departed on the second of September, accompanied by four of my people with ten horses. We travelled along the Great River and crossed it twice. I preached frequently to the tribes of Korannas along the river. We suffered much both from hunger and thirst, having taken nothing with us, depending entirely upon the natives. The last three days previous to our arrival in Griqua Town, one of the men and myself suffered extreme hunger and thirst, nearly three days without victuals and nearly two without water. This was on account of three of my people having unexpectedly stayed behind, and been unable to overtake us; and we not knowing the hindrance, saw it most proper to go forward, being then in the midst of a sand desert without water, and the little flesh was with those who stayed behind. You may well conceive what effect such hardships had upon me in a bodily respect, sleeping behind a bush on the sand, eating nothing but flesh, and that so hard frequently that we must beat it small with stones, and living two or three days on a little milk. But I stood it out far better than my companions, for I had always to encourage both them and myself, or we never would have got there. Through Divine help we all arrived at Griqua Town on the evening of the eleventh. The brethren and sisters received me with joy and affection, and supplied me with everything needful; and I may say with Paul, when I saw them I thanked God and took courage, and when I reflected on the difficulties which I had undergone, 1 adored the Hand which had preserved me in them, and I more than ever estimated the value of providential blessings; but above all, I was cheered with this one recollection that it is for Jesu’s sake and the sake of the heathen. In the midst of these hardships I felt, as I do at this moment, that I desire to suffer anything, even death itself, if but Christ is glorified in the salvation of the poor heathen. During my stay at Griqua Town I preached occasionally, and got proper information relating to the situation alluded to — to which I had some objections, seeing some difficulties in the way in a political point of view.

“I set off on the fifth of October to return home, and after experiencing nearly as great difficulties as before, I reached this place on the fifteenth. My little flock were all out of patience, and were ready to quarrel with me for leaving them. They assured me they would never again suffer me to do so. On my arrival I found a letter from Brother Ebner, informing me of his critical situation, he having been obliged to leave the Warm Bath station on account of the broils which had taken place between the people themselves, which were likely to end in a war. He begged of me to visit him. I immediately set off, and reached him the same day on the north side of the Great River; he was then on the point of crossing, and only waited on me. I did all that I could to dissuade him from the idea of leaving the Namaqua Mission, but all my entreaties were vain, for he seemed determined to leave Namaqualand entirely, and perhaps resign the work and return to Europe. This considerably affected me. After stopping two days I left him: he soon crossed the river, and suffered considerable loss of cattle on account of the strong current.

“About two weeks ago the two parties, viz., that of Bondelzwartz and that of Magerman, came and laid the whole of the case before me, leaving me to judge betwixt them. After hearing both parties, I showed each how far they had erred from common justice, and how Magerman’s people were culpable, which they acknowledged. Both parties were perfectly satisfied with the judgment, and gave each other the hand as a token of peace, promising to return the guns which each party had taken. Ebner is gone, and has left me a solitary missionary with little prospect of having help. But the cause is the Lord’s, and how can we be faint or weary in well-doing, while we witness immortal souls dying for lack of knowledge? I have many difficulties to encounter being alone. No one can do anything for me in my household affairs. I must attend to everything, which often confuses me, and, indeed, hinders me in my work, for I could wish to have almost nothing to do but to instruct the heathen, both spiritually and ternporally. Daily I do a little in the garden, daily I am doing something for the people in mending guns. I am carpenter, smith, cooper, tailor, shoemaker, miller, baker, and housekeeper — the last is the most burdensome of any. Indeed, none is burdensome but it. An old Namaqua woman milks my cows, makes a fire and washes. AH other things I do myself, though I seldom prepare anything till impelled by hunger. I drink plenty of milk, and often eat a piece of dry flesh. Lately I reaped nearly two bolls of wheat from two hatfuls which I sowed. This is of great help to me. I shall soon have plenty of Indian corn, cabbage, melons, and potatoes. Water is scarce. I have sown wheat a second time on trial. I live chiefly now ori bread and milk. To-day I churned about three Scotch pints of milk, from which there were two pounds of butter, so you may conceive that the milk is rich. I wish many times my mother saw me. My house is always pretty clean, but oh what a confusion there is always among my linen. I have no patience.

“On the twenty-sixth of November I received letters from the Cape and England, of a very interesting nature. One from Miss Smith of Dukinfield. She informed me that Mr. Roby saw you on his visit to Scotland, and that you were well and that my mother was in good spirits. This was very agreeable news to me indeed, for I often think of you all, and feel anxious to know how it fares with you. In a former letter I mentioned something respecting my hope of being united to Miss S.,but her last two letters have been completely effectual in blasting my hopes. She has most reluctantly renounced the idea of ever getting abroad, her father determining never to allow her. Of course I have been greatly cast down of late, but have at the same time been enabled to love and confide in Him who sticketh closer than a brother, and have been more than ever led to see the mutability of every earthly comfort.

“I must now inform you that it is my intention shortly to visit the Cape. I think of commencing my journey in February. I have requested Afrikaner to accompany me. He immediately consented, and is now making preparations. This will be a wonderful event to hear of, Afrikaner accompanying a missionary to Cape Town. It will also be very acceptable to the Governor, as he has often requested him to come that some sort of peace niis,ht be established. For particular reasons he would not go, nor would do now were it not that he esteems and puts great confidence in me. I have much reason to believe that this unexpected event will be the means of doing much good, both in a political and an ecclesiastical point of view. The Government will see the fruits of our labours, and be convinced that we are indeed messengers of peace; but you will hear more afterwards.

“I am also excited to visit the Cape by hearing that my presence will be acceptable when some important discussions will take place relating to our Missions.

‘* I could have wished to communicate my journal in full; it would interest you in the winter evenings, and I may do this. I long to hear from you. I have now been nearly two years in Africa, and only received one letter from you, not a syllable from William, nor do I near anything of Alexander. Write me fully, and forget me not in your approaches to the throne of grace. Remember me to all my friends in Edinburgh and elsewhere, and particularly to Richard, Helen, Ann, and James. Tell them all that I often think of them and pray for them, and that it is not likely that I shall see them any more till we shall all stand before the judgment seat of Christ, and I hope finally in the presence of the Lamb. I must conclude, desiring to remain your affectionate but unworthy son.”

We can form but a faint idea of the feeling with which such letters as this would be received and read in the quiet Scottish home at Inverkeithing. They continued to come in unfaiHng succession through more than fifty years, perhaps sometimes not oftener than once in the twelvemonth, but never failing to come at last. The home tie was never broken or allowed to die away, indeed it seemed to grow stronger and more tender as the years rolled by.

The reader will understand that the region called Great Namaqualand lies to the north of the Orange River, and along the western coast of the continent. To the eastward of it is the almost rainless and waterless Kalahari desert, and beyond that, still further eastward, the Bechwana country. To any one coming from the southward the first Bechwana tribe encountered is the Batlaping, who were then on the Kuruman river. The missionaries Read and Hamilton were already among these people. Moffat had already seen, and had been favourably impressed with, some Bechwanas who, travelling for purposes of trade, had visited Namaqualand. They in their turn were importunate for him to accompany them to their own country, which was a few miles to the westward of Lattakoo as it was then called. Of course he could not yield to their entreaties. On the occasion of his visit to Griqua Town above related, he went on to visit the missionaries on the Kuruman; and whilst vv’ith them came in contact with the same people, who hailed him as an old friend. He then found that his fame had preceded him, and that he had already gained a most surprising ascendency over the hearts of these strangers. He little thought even then that among these very people it was the will of God that the great work of his life was to be done.

The letter already cited had a postscript, both long and important, of which the following is a part:

Cape Town, April 16, 1819.

“Dear Father, — It was my intention when I wrote this letter to have sent it off immediately, but the overflowing of the Orange River completely cut off all communication. I accordingly kept this and other letters, as there was a probability of my reaching Cape Town before them should they have been sent. Although the Great or Orange River was nearly full, I crossed it safely, though not without being exposed to imminent danger and loss, and after a prosperous journey I reached this place about four days ago. Afrikaner, the chief, is with me, and every one is pleased to see him, and no less astonished to witness the effect of Divine grace manifesting itself in him and others who are with me. On my arrival here I received your letter of the thirty-first of July, 1818, and you may well conceive what my feelings were in recognizing the handwriting of my dear brother Alexander, whom I never expected to behold again in this world, and may not even as it is; but I cannot describe my joy on hearing that he yet lives, not in a far distant land, but in the bosom of his nearest friends. When I think on this my soul seems winged to your habitation and mingling in your converse.

“The worthy Mr. Harvard, Methodist missionary from Ceylon, on his way to England, goes on board in three hours, and promises to take this with other letters. I also send with him some African curiosities to my dear friend Mr. Roby. I have just received letters from Miss Smith. The scene is changed. I have now abundant reason to believe that God will make her path plain to Africa. This I trust will be soon, for a missionary in this country without a wife is like a boat with one oar. A good missionary’s wife can be as useful as her husband in the Lord’s vineyard.

“Dr. Philip and Mr. Campbell are preparing for their journey into the interior, and have earnestly begged of me to accompany them as interpreter. I have consented, and we will, I think, proceed in a few weeks. Of lat in this corner of hell the dry bones begin to shake, apostolic zeal begins to peep out. Government is favourable to missions and to the cause in this town, and we confidently look forward to a harvest of souls. Dr. Philip has got permission to build a chapel; such a thing was never known before. Twice every Sabbath Divine service is held at the Orphan Chamber, when Messrs. Philip and Campbell preach. On the Sabbath a prayer-meeting is held in this house, also on the Wednesday evenings, when exhortations are given. The two directors are always present. There axe many other meetings in Dutch. Brother Evans preaches in Dutch to-night to slaves, and I have to engage on Sabbath. This you see is the old way and the only way to damp Satan’s courage, and eventually gain victory. Pray for us all.

“Remember me to Mr. Brown. Tell him, after all that I have suffered, I am not tired but strengthened, and feel myself more a missionary than I ever was before in my life.”

This visit of Afrikaner to the Cape was an event of great importance in more ways than one. In a striking and concrete manner it brought to the view of those who had authority and influence the fact that missionaries, instead of increasing political difficulties, may often help to solve them. Moreover the strikingly gentle and Christian deportment of Afrikaner and his followers, a man who had formerly been known as a public terror, greatly encouraged those who were holding forth the power of the gospel to regenerate the most unpromising characters.

The Governor himself was personally much interested with the visitors from Namaqualand, and when Afrikaner left to return home it was with many good wishes and substantial proofs of esteem. It was a curious coincidence that the hundred pounds sterling which had once been offered for his head as an outlaw, was eventually laid out by the Government in offerings of goodwill to be bestowed upon himself.

Afrikaner took a tearful farewell of his friend, but kept the hope of a speedy meeting in Bechwanaland, whither it had been determined that Moffat should go. The meeting took place, and Afrikaner again returned to Namaqualand, with a view to arrange the removal of his little tribe to the neighbourhood in which his beloved teacher was setthng. It was not to be. Before he could carry out his plan, he was called away to eternal rest; his people got divided, and lost purpose and heart for an undertaking which required a measure of discipline under a strong leader.

“At last” (says Moffat in his own history) “our Wesleyan brethren nobly extended their efforts to Namaqualand. Their labours have been crowned with success, and I ha?e watched their onward progress with as much interest as though I had been one of their number. The field being thus ably occupied, it was unnecessary for the London Missionary Society to send others, while the characte-r of the country, with its scanty population, and the cry for missionaries to carry on the work in more important fields, influenced the Directors to leave that section of the missionary world to our Wesleyan brethren.”

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