Fifteenth Tour

SOUTH AUSTRALIA, TASMANIA, NEW ZEA-LAND, CEYLON AND INDIA.

From August 1887, to June Sth, 1889.

AFTER much prayer and waiting upon God, having decided upon undertaking another long Missionary Tour, in order to visit a number of places to which we had never yet been, on Aug. 10th, 1887, my husband and I again left Bristol; passed two nights in London at the Charing Cross Hotel, and on the 12th, at one in the afternoon, sailed from Tilbury, near Gravesend, on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship “Clyde” (in which we had secured a large well ventilated cabin, close to the saloon), for Glenelg, in South Australia. On the 20th, at 6 a.m., the ship touched at Valetta, in Malta; but, on account of cholera there and of quarantine, the passengers were not allowed to land. At 4 p.m. our voyage was continued; and, after calling at Port Said, and at Suez, we reached Colombo, Ceylon; went on shore there at half-past 4 on the afternoon of Sept, the 5th, and slept for one night at the Oriental Hotel. The next morning we had a pleasant drive through the Cinnamon Gardens, though the climate was very hot, and at 4 in the afternoon, embarking again on board the “Clyde,” sailed at 8 in the evening, and arrived off Albany, King George’s Sound, on the West Coast of Australia, on Sept. the 18th, at 7 a.m. There we remained until half-past 12, and at that hour sailed for Glenelg, where, after an exceedingly rough, boisterous passage, in consequence of the equinoctial gales, which then with great violence set in, we arrived at midnight on Sept. 21st, after a voyage of 11,183 miles from London. The next morning we left the “Clyde,” which was anchored two miles from the shore, and were conveyed with our luggage in a steam launch through a terribly rough sea, to the pier, where we landed at 10 o’clock; and after a strict Custom House examination of the whole of our baggage, proceeded immediately by railway to Adelaide, seven miles from Glenelg, but took up our abode at the York Hotel there, for one week only, until Sept. the 29th. Upon that day, however, having received a kind invitation from Mr. and Mrs. Charles Henry Goode to stay at their house, on Sept. 29th we went to No. 2, Tynte Street, North Adelaide, and remained with them until Nov. the 5th.

Whilst at Adelaide, from Sept 22nd until Nov. 5th, my husband held a great number of meetings altogether, at the different Churches which that city contains, besides conducting services at Glenelg, Port Adelaide and Semaphore, to which places we had access by railway, as they are all some miles distant from the city. On the morning of Nov. 5th a short journey by railway of 34 miles brought us to Freeling, from thence we proceeded 24 miles farther by carriage to Keyneton, stayed there at Evandale — the house of Mrs. Evans; and after visiting North Rhine, Angaston, Gawler and Kapunda, at each of which towns, as well as at Kejmeton, my husband held meetings, one of which, at North Rhine, was in German, for the Germans; on Nov. 17th we returned to 2, Tynte Street, North Adelaide, and remained there until Dec. 1st. On Nov. 11th we dined with the Hon. J. H. Angas, at his residence — Collingrove, near Angaston; at Gawler we stayed at Parapara, the house of Mrs. Duffield, from the 12th to the 15 th, and at Kapunda, which is 54 miles from Adelaide, were entertained at the house of Mr. Greenshields, from Tuesday the 15th until Nov. 17th. At all of the places just mentioned my husband’s ministry was greatly appreciated, and our stay at each of them would have been much longer than it was, but having the prospect of long journeys before us, through Tasmania and New Zealand, we were unable to spare any more time for visiting those towns, and accordingly, as already stated, returned to Adelaide on Nov. the 17th. During this our second visit to that city, Mr. Müller preached again many times; on the evening of Nov. 22nd he held a meeting at Alberton, 10 miles distant, and on Nov. 29th preached a farewell sermon at North Adelaide Baptist Church, from “Brethren, pray for us,” to a large assembly of attentive hearers.

At 3 on the afternoon of Dec. 1st we left Adelaide by railway, passed one night at Border Town at the house of Mr. Gibbons, and, continuing our journey the next day, arrived at Mount Oambier, 305 miles from Adelaide, in the evening, where, going to the Mount Gambier Hotel, we stayed until Dec. the 7th. On the morning of that day we rose at 4 o’clock, travelled by an early train to Narracoorte, and, arriving there before breakfast, were entertained at the house of Mr. Blackwell, two iniles from the town, where we remained until Dec. the 9th. On the morning of that day we returned to Border Town, started at 9 in the evening from the Wool Shed Hotel there to the Station, and, after travelling by express train all night, in a sleeping compartment to ourselves, arrived at Melbourne, 327 miles from Border Town, at 10 on the morning of the 10th, and went again to Menzies HoteL At Mount Gambier, at Narracoorte, and at Border Town, Mr. Müller held several meetings; and, including the services at these three towns, at Adelaide,, and at all the other places which have been mentioned, he preached 80 times in South Australia. altogether, that is, between Sept. 22nd and Dec. 10th, 1887. There is the fullest reason to believe, too, that God’s rich, abundant blessing rested upon his labours in that Colony, that believers were edified, and that unconverted persons were brought, through his ministry, to a knowledge of the Lord.

On Dec. 3rd, whilst at Mount Gambier, we took a drive to the beautiful “Blue Lake,” about four miles in circumference, which lies in the large hollow crater of an extinct volcano, at a short distance only from that town, and is said to be of an amazing depth. Its clear, transparent waters were intensely blue; and, as the scenery around this lake is fine, it is considered an object of great interest by strangers. On Dec. the 8th, too, when at Narracoorte, we took a drive to visit some remarkable underground caverns seven miles distant; but whilst at Melbourne, as the weather was excessively hot, and my beloved husband was not very well, I persuaded him to give up two meetings, which had been arranged for him in that city for Sunday the 11th, and to rest before our departure for Tasmania and New Zealand.

Our brief stay of three days at Melbourne having come to an end, and having engaged a good cabin on board the “Taraweera,” at 6 on the evening of Dec. 13th we sailed for Hobart; and arriving in that city, which is the capital of Tasmania, at 8 a.m., landed, and went to the Orient Hotel, after a pleasant voyage of 422 miles from Melbourne. The next morning we took up our abode at Pressland Boarding House, and, whilst at Hobart, Mr. Müller held 20 meetings altogether at the diflTerent Churches which that city contains. On January the 6th, 1888, we travelled by railway to Perth, 127 miles from Hobart, where Mr. Gibson met us with his carriage; and accompanying him in that conveyance for two miles further to Native Point, his residence, we stayed with him there until January the 9tL On the afternoon of that day we proceeded to Launceston, 16 miles from Native Point, and arrived at the Brisbane Hotel soon after 4; but, at Perth and at Launceston,

i my husband had time to preach only five times altogether, because we had to sail for New Zealand from Hobart on January the 12th. On the afternoon of the 11th, therefore, we left Launceston by railway, arrived late in the evening at Hobart, after a journey of 133 miles, and remained there at the Brunswick Hotel until the next day.

Our visit to Tasmania (formerly called Van Dieman’s Land) having now come to a close, on the afternoon of Jan. 12th we embarked on board a large Steamship, the “Wairarapa,” and sailed for New Zealand at half-past 6. On the morning of Sunday, the 16th, Mr. Mtiller preached in the saloon, where he had a large congregation of first and second class passengers, by whom the ship was crowded to the utmost; and at 9, on the evening of that day, we arrived off Invercargill Bluflf, in the Southern Island of New Zealand, after a favourable voyage of 930 miles from Hobart. On the following morning we landed, went on by railway to Invercargill, 17 miles from the Bluff, and, going to the Crescent Hotel in that town, remained there until Jan. 24th. On the morning of that day we rose at half-past 4, left Invercargill by an early train, and, embarking at Kingston on board the Lake steamer ‘* Ben Lomond,” sailed along Lake Wakatipu for 25 miles, and, landing at Queenstown at 4 o’clock, went to Eichardt’s Hotel, a large building beautifully situated, close to the edge of the lake. At Invercargill and at Queenstown, my husband held several meetings altogether at the Presbyterian Churches, and at other places of worship, which were attended by large congregations. Early on the morning of the 27th we took a long drive in an open carriage through the picturesque Lake District in the neighbourhood of Queenstown, and before 1 o’clock returned to the Hotel. Lake Wakatipu is about 50 miles in length, and is surrounded by high mountains partially covered with snow, some thousands of feet above the level of the sea, which have a grand appearance from the decks of steamers, as passengers sail up or down the Lake. In the afternoon we embarked again on board the “Ben Lomond,” sailed soon afterwards, and, arriving at Kingston in about two hours, went to the Terminus Hotel, which we reached before the dinner hour at half-past 6.

On the morning of the next day (January 28th) we rose at half-past 4, started by an early train, and, after travelling for 12 hours and a half, arrived at the Grand Hotel, Dunedin, where we remained until Feb. 14th. Whilst travelling from Kingston to Dunedin, in a long saloon carriage of the train which was filled with passengers, a gentleman sat exactly opposite to us with a newspaper in his hand, out of which he read aloud for a few minutes to his fellow passengers, that “the Rev. George Müller of Bristol, England, was about to visit Dunedin,” etc., etc.; adding, — “I would give a great deal indeed to see him” Upon being informed that Mr. Müller was sitting just opposite to him, he was delighted, took off his hat, shook hands with us both, and entered into a long conversation, in which all our fellow passengers seemed greatly interested. Tfhe day after our arrival, on the morning of Sunday, Jan. 29tli, my husband commenced his labours at Dunedin by preaching at the First Presbyterian Church to a large congregation; and on the evening of that day, at the Garrison Hall, an immense building with a capacious gallery and a large platform, he addressed an audience of 2,800 persons at 8 o’clock, with great help from the Lord. On the evening of Jan. 31st he addressed about 800 Christian Workers at the Choral Hall; on Feb. the 1st he preached at Knox Church; on the 2nd at St. Andrew’s Church; on the morning of Sunday, the 5th, he spoke at a meeting of Brethren in the Choral Hall, and in the evening, at 8 o’clock, preached for the second time to a very large congregation at the Garrison Hall. On Feb. the 6th he held a meeting for the pastors of the city, whom he addressed for about an hour. On Feb. 8th he preached at the Baptist Church; on the 9th at the Congregational Church, Murray Place; on the 10th at the Wesleyan Church, Cargill Road; on the morning of Sunday, Feb. the 12th, he preached at King Street Congregational Church, and in the evening at the Choral Hall addressed an overflowing audience, so that hundreds of persons were obliged to go away, because it was impossible to obtain admission into the building. This was his farewell meeting at Dunedin. During our stay in the city, we took an afternoon drive on Feb. 2nd through its suburbs, and on the 8th went by tram-carriage to Momington, where, from the top of a hill, we

U — 2

had a fine view of Dunedin, its neighbourhood, and of the Pacific Ocean in the distance.

On Feb. 14th we took our departure from Dunedin; went on by railway to Port Chalmers, a small town in a picturesque situation, with fine sea and mountain scenery, nine miles distant, and at the Manse, the residence of Mr. John Ryley (Presbyterian minister), remained until the 18th. On the afternoon of that day we started by the 3.50 train, proceeded to Oamaru, 70 miles from Port Chalmers, and, arriving at the Star and Garter Hotel, in the evening at half-past 8, remained there until Feb. 20th. On the afternoon of that day we left Oamaru by the 1 o’clock train, continued our travels for 53 miles along the sea shore, and, arriving at the Grosvenor Hotel, Timaru, soon after 3, took up our abode there until the 22nd. At Port Chalmers, at Oamaru, and at Timaru, Mr. Müller held seven meetings altogether, all of which were attended by large congregations. On the afternoon of the 22nd we left Timaru by the 3.17 train, passed Ashburton and Christchurch on our way, and arriving at L3rttelton in the evening at half-past 8, went to the Mitre Hotel, after a journey of 106 miles from Timaru.

On the afternoon of Feb. 23rd we embarked on board a large Steamship,, the “Manapouri,” commanded by an excellent man. Captain Logan, with whom we had happy Christian intercourse, and who showed us the greatest kindness and attention possible. In the evening at half-past six we sailed, and landing at Wellington, the capital of New Zealand, and in the Northern Island, on the morning of the 24th, at half-past 9, went to the Albert Hotel, after a voyage of 180 miles from Lyttelton. On the morning of Sunday, Feb. 26th, Mr. Midler commenced his service for the Lord at Wellington by preaching at the Presbyterian Church; and on the evening of that day he conducted a service at the Opera House at 8 o’clock, which was so crowded with hearers, that the following statement regarding the meeting was published the next morning in the newspapers: — “Yesterday evening the Rev. Greorge Müller of Bristol, England, preached at the Opera House to the largest congregation ever packed into that building, for not only were all the seats crowded to the utmost, but hundreds of persons were obliged to stand.” In the course of that week he held several other meetings at Wellington. On the morning of Sunday, March 4th, he preached at the Baptist Church, and on the evening of that day, at 8 o’clock, addressed another large audience of more than 2,000 persons at the Opera House, a building which, a few weeks after our departure from Wellington, was totally destroyed by fire. During the whole of that week his labours in the ministry were continued; on Sunday morning, March 11th, he gave an address in a large Hall at a meeting of Brethren for the breaking of bread, and on the evening of that day preached at the Theatre to a very large congregation. On March 5th we took a drive to the beautiful Botanical Gardens; on the evening of the 13th went by carriage to “the Hutt,” a village eight miles distant, where, at the Wesleyan Church, he preached to a crowded audience; and he continued to be actively engaged at Wellington, in service for the Lord, until the 16th, when our stay in that city terminated.

On the afternoon of March 16th we left Wellington, travelled by railway for 88 miles, and, arriving at the Club Hotel, Palmerston-North, in the midst of a violent thunderstorm, after a late dinner, at 8 o’clock, retired to rest. At Palmerston we remained until March 23rd; left the town by railway at noon on that day for Greatford, 24 miles distant, and proceeding thence by coach to the town of Bulls, stayed there at the Criterion Hotel until March 27th. On the afternoon of that day, a little journey (vii Greatford) of nine miles further on, by coach and by railway, brought us to Marton. There, at the White Hart Hotel, we remained until the 29th, and on that day continued our travels in a northerly direction. At Palmerston-North, at Bulls and at Marton, Mr. Müller held ten meetings altogether; and though the weather at Marton was most unfavourable, because there were violent equinoctial gales, accompanied by drenching storms of rain and of hail nearly all the time our visit lasted, he had, upon the whole, much larger congregations than could have been expected. On March 29th we left Marton by the 2 p.m. train, arrived at Wanganui, 41 miles distant, at half-past 3, and, going to the Eutland Hotel, remained there until April the 9th. On the afternoon of that day we proceeded by railway, in sight of, Mount Vernon, several thousands of feet high, to Hawera, 59 miles distant, stayed at the Commercial Hotel there until April 12th, and on the afternoon of that day travelled on to New Plymouth, 48 miles further north, where, at the Criterion Hotel, we remained until April the 18th. At Wanganui, at Hawera and at New Plymouth, my husband preached 14 times altogether, at the different Churches which those cities contain, where he had the privilege of addressing large congregations, and where his ministry, as we heard afterwards, was highly appreciated by the persons who heard him. Our short stay at New Plymouth, however, having come to a close, on the afternoon of April the 18th we embarked on board the Steamship ^’ Wanaka,’’ sailed at 6 on the evening of that day, and landing at Onehunga at 8 on the morning of April the 19th, after a night voyage of 150 miles from New Plymouth, proceeded by carriage to Auckland direct, eight miles distant, where, at Oram’s Hotel, we remained until May the 21st.

During the whole time we stayed in Auckland, that is, iip to our final departure from that city on June 27th, Mr. Müller preached 47 times altogether, including services conducted by him in the suburbs of Remuera, ParneU, Newton, North Shore, Ponsonby and Onehunga, where, at the different Churches, at the Opera. House, in the Tabernacle, at the Theatre and at the Room of the Brethren, he had very large audiences continually, by whom he was listened to with the greatest interest and attention.

On the morning of May 21st we rose soon after 5, started at 8 o’clock by railway for Oxford, and, after spending one night there at an Hotel, set off early the next morning by carriage for Ohinemutu in the Hot Lake District, where we arrived at 1 p.m.; and, going to the Lake Hotel, remained there until May the 25th. At Ohinemutu, Lake Eotorua, which is about 33 miles in circumference, is one of the principal objects of attraction. This Lake is the colour of milk, from the large quantities of white volcanic mud deposited beneath its waters, and considerable quantities of steam rise from certain parts of the surface of the Lake; but in places where there i,s no steam, the water is nearly cold. On the morning of the 23rd we took a long drive through the Volcanic District to the top of a mountain, from which a fine distant view of Mount Taraweera, an extinct volcano, was obtained. On June 10th, 1886, there was a terrific eruption from this Mount Taraweera, when 105 Maoris (or natives of New Zealand), with their dwellings and property, were destroyed; and Mr. Edwin Bainbridge, from England, who was ten miles distant from the Mountain at the time of this volcanic outbreak, was overwhelmed by the torrents of hot mud, lava, cinders, &c., which were poured forth with the greatest violence for many miles from the crater upon its summit, and, in consequence of this explosion, was killed upon the spot. The beautiful, extensive and celebrated “Pink and White Terraces “too, were totally destroyed at that time. We returned in the carriage to Ohinemutu through a settlement of the Maoris, and through ‘^ the Bush “; and in the evening Mr. Müller preached at the Episcopal Church, close to Lake Eotorua, to a large congregation of Europeans and Americans, for the Rev. Frederick Spencer, whom we met in Rome some years ago, and who was residing at Ohinemutu at the time we were there. On the morning of May 24th we walked to the springs of boiling water, saw several quantities of boiling mud bubbling up at a little distance from the surface of the ground; and, in the afternoon, took a drive to the Geysers, which are springs of boiling water that rise with great force for several feet into the air, and generate large quantities of steam, which can be seen floating about in clouds from a considerable distance. These Geysers were well worth seeing, and are of the same character, I believe, as those in Iceland. On May 25th, at 10 a.m., we took our departure from Ohinemutu, went back by coach to Oxford, and the following afternoon returned by railway to Auckland, where we arrived at 10 that night, after an excursion, to and from the Hot Lake and Volcanic District, of 373 miles.

At Auckland Mr. Müller resumed his service for the Lord, and continued, as already mentioned, to preach in that city and in the neighbourhood until June the 27th; but our long visit of nearly six months to New Zealand having now come to a close, on the afternoon of that day we embarked on board the “Eotomahana,” a large Ocean Steamship, which sailed at half-past 5.

At 7 on the morning of the 28th we arrived at the Bay of Islands, and, after touching at Opua, and at Sussell, two towns beautifully situated on the coast of that Bay, continued our voyage to Sydney, New South Wales, where, after a most favourable passage of 1389 miles, we landed on the morning of July the 2nd. On Sunday morning (July 1st) my husband held a meeting in the Saloon of the ‘^ Eotomahana “; preached to a large number of the first and second class passengers and of the officers of the ship, and was listened to by them with much interest and attention. After passing one night at the Royal Hotel, Sydney, on the afternoon of July 3rd we went to Ardrossan Boarding House, Wynyard Square, and there we remained until November the 10th. During this our long visit to Sydney, for the third time, Mr. Müller preached in that large city, and in its suburbs of Merrickville, Wooloomooloo, Waverley, Newtown, Castlereagh, Eedfem, Balmain and Glebe, 86 times altogether, at the principal Churches, Halls, at the Brethren’s Room, and in other public buildings which those places contain. Whilst we were staying at Sydney, too, this time, he delivered nine lectures in succession, at the Burton Street Tabernacle, on subjects connected with the Second Coming of our Lord, conducted services also for Christian Workers, and held five consecutive meetings at the Tabernacle, where he answered in public about 60 written questions on a great variety of subjects, which had previously been sent in to him. Soon after our arrival in Sydney, too, as he received a letter signed by a great number of earnest and decided believers of various denominations, requesting him to hold a series of meetings especially for the spiritual instruction and advancement of Christians; in compliance with this request, he held more than twenty such meetings altogether, at a few of the places of worship in the city. He preached four times likewise at Episcopal Churches in Sydney, where the services were as simple and evangelical as possible, the clergymen belonging to those Churches being large hearted brethren. When our long visit, of more than four months, to Sydney had terminated, having secured one of the largest, most comfortable, and best ventilated cabins on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship “Britannia,” a large Ocean steamer of 6600 tons, on Nov. 10th, at one in the afternoon, we sailed for Williamstown, landed there at 10 o’clock on the morning of the 12th, and going on by railway to Melbourne, 12 miles distant, stayed at the Oriental Hotel in that city until the 16th. On the evenings of Nov. 13th and 14th Mr. MuUer preached at the Hall of the Young Men’s Christian Association; on the evening of the 15th he attended a prayer-meeting at the Protestant Hall; and on the morning of the 16th we returned to Williamstown. There, embarking on board the ‘^ Britannia “again, at 3 in the afternoon, we sailed for Largs Bay; arrived there at 4 on the morning of the 18th, and, after landing at 10 o’clock, proceeded by railway to Adelaide direct, ten miles distant, where we passed one night only at the York Hotel. On the evening of that day Mr. Müller preached at Zion Chapel, near Flinders Street, where he had the pleasure of addressing a large congregation. On the morning of Nov. 19th we returned to Largs Bay, where a steam-launch conveyed us on board the “Britannia” again, which was two miles distant from the coast, and, sailing at 4 on the afternoon of that day for Albany, we arrived off that town on the 22nd at 1 p.m., but did not go on shore. At 6 on the morning of the 23rd we sailed from Albany, rounded “the Lewin,” where there was a heavy swell and the sea is always very rough, a few hours after our departure; and after entering the Tropics on the 25th, and

crossing the Line on December the Ist, arrived in the harbour of Colombo, Ceylon, at 3 o’clock on the morning of Dec. 3rd, at the close of a delightful voyage of 5535 miles from Sydney. I had dreaded this voyage greatly, because the sea was so very rough when we came out from England, fifteen months before; but now, in answer to many, many prayers, the ocean was perfectly smooth. At 9 we landed; were conveyed in a gharry for a mile to the Galle Face Hotel, which, surrounded by large groves of cocoa-nut trees, stands in a pleasant, healthy situation upon the sea-shore, and our luggage followed us in a buUock-cart.

Whilst at Colombo my husband held many meetings at the principal Churches which that city contains. On December 12th we went by railway to Moratuwa, 12 miles from Colombo, where he preached at the Wesleyan native Church, at half-past one, in the middle of the day, to a large congregation of Cingalese men and women, most of whom were converts to the Christian faith, and to more than 100 native boys and girls, with translation into the Cingalese language by one of the native pastors, who understood English well; and on the afternoon of the 13th, at half-past one, he held a meeting at Koticawatte, six miles distant, at the Baptist native Church, where he addressed a large congregation of Cingalese converts also, with interpretation by one of the native pastors into their own language. Having received an earnest invitation to attend a Convention at Nuwara-Eliya, on the morning of December the 14th we rose at 5, started from Slave Island railway station, for that place, by the 7 o’clock train; and, after a slow and circuitous, but beautiful, journey up the mountains, surrounded by magnificent scenery, isirrived at Nuna-Oya at 4 in the afternoon, alighted from the train, and were driven in an open carriage, four miles higher up, to Nuwara-Eliya, 6220 feet above the level of the sea, in a lovely and romantic situation, where, taking up our abode at the Grand Hotel, we remained until December the 17th. During our stay at Nuwara-Eliya, Mr. Midler spoke three times at the Convention Hall, for an hour upon each occasion, where a clergyman from Ireland, Mr. Jordan, Mr. Walker, Mr. Pigott, and a number of other brethren, gave addresses also. There are about 800 Tea Planters living on those mountains, from amongst whom many had been brought, not long since,

to the knowledge of our Lord Jesus Christ. In order that they might be benefited by the teaching of Mr. Müller, and by his long experience in the divine life, he had been especially invited to attend this Convention, and a most abundant blessing was conveyed by his ministry. The day of the Lord alone will fully reveal how greatly these young converts, and even older believers too, were benefited by his teaching.

Whilst staying at NuwararEliya,we walked occasionally in the gardens of the Hotel, where there were many flowers in full bloom, saw an immense flight of butterflies, millions of those insects, all flying in the sunshine in one direction, and had a good view of Mount Pedrotellagallah, 8400 feet above the level of the sea, which is the highest mountain in Ceylon. On the morning of December 17th we left Nuwara-Eliya by carriage at half-past 8, started from Nuna-Oya by the 9 o’clock train; and, after travelling through tea and coffee plantations, through extensive fields of rice, and in full view of Adam’s Peak, rising high above the other mountains, arrived at Kandy in the afternoon at half-past 2, and went to Grey’s Hotel, a building delightfully situated close to the margin of the Lake. That evening, at half-past 5, Mr. Müller preached at the Wesleyan Church, in Kandy, to a large congregation; at the close of the service he had a brief conversation with the pastor, and at half-past 7 we dined at the Hotel. The next morning (December 18th) we rose at 5 o’clock, and took an early drive in an open carriage to the Botanical

Gardens, six nules distant/for which Kandy is celebrated. There, on alighting from the conveyance, a Cingalese man, who spoke English pretty well, conducted us through the grounds, as guide, and pointed out the tropical wonders which they contain, including many large trees of gigantic growth. Some India-rubber trees in these grounds were of amazing height, and their wonderfully large roots, extending far and wide in all directions above, as well as heloWy the ground, particularly attracted our attention. The African oil palm trees in these Gardens, too, almost rivalled in height the “big trees” we saw in California, and Upas trees so poisonous were there, that persons die, it is said, who sleep under their shade. The banyan-trees were fine, and trees of much smaller growth, such as nutmeg, clove, chocolate and bread-fruit trees, were conspicuous objects in these Gardens. Several clusters of large bamboos were growing near some water, and collections of beautiful ferns and orchids, with splendid flowering creepers climbing up a few of the tall trees, make these Gardens an attractive resort both to the natives of Kandy, and to the strangers who may be residing in that town and neighbourhood for a short time. When our visit to these Botanical Gardens had terminated, we returned in the carriage to the Hotel to breakfast; set off at 2*15 in the afternoon by railway for Colombo, and arrived there in the evening at half-past 6, after a journey, to Nuna-Oya, to Nuwara-Eliya, to Kandy, and back again to Colombo, of 344 miles.

At Colombo my husband resomed his labours in the ministry; on Sunday, December the 23rd, he preached at the Baptist Church, Cinnamon Gardens, to a large congregation of Cingalese, at one o’clock, with translation into their own language by one of the native pastors, and in the evening he held a meeting for persons who understood English, at six, which was his farewell service in the Island of Ceylon. In the course of our stay at Colombo, we took several drives in gharries and in jinrickshaws, up and down the Esplanade, through the Cinnamon Gardens, and along the sea-coast, where the waves roll in continually with great force upon the shore. The Museum contains a shark 23 feet in length, and 13 in girth, which was caught a few years ago in that part of the sea which is close to Mbratuwa; and elephants, monkeys, birds, a beautiful collection of butterflies and other insects, some alligators, tortoises and snakes, are exhibited in this Museum ] the animals, birds, &c. having been stuffed, and the lizards, snakes and other reptiles, having otherwise been carefully preserved. We visited this Museum on the afternoon 6i Dec the 24th; all the animals, birds, insects, &c. &c., which it contains, are from the Island of Ceylon, and the entire collection, which is of a choice and valuable description, is well worth a visit of inspection. A few of the snakes of Ceylon are harmless, others are poisonous, and cobras abound in the neighbourhood of Colombo, which are of so deadly a character, that death in ten minutes is certain to follow their bite, because no remedy for the wounds inflicted by these reptiles has ever been discovered.

Our visit to the Island of Ceylon having come to a close; at 6 on the evening of Dec. 26th, we sailed from Colombo on board the Peninsular and Oriental Steamship “Nepaul,” landed at Garden Keach on Dec. 31st at 3 in the afternoon, and going on by carriage into Calcutta, went to a large Boarding House in the best and most healthy part of the city, where we took up our abode, after a most favourable voyage of 1264 miles from Colombo.

During this our second, visit to India, my husband commenced’ his labours in Calcutta, by preaching on Sunday, Jan. 6th, 1889, at the Methodist Episcopal Church, Dharamtolla Street, at 8 o’clock on the morning of that day, and subsequently he held meetings twice on Sundays and two or three times on week evenings, at the Free Church of Scotland, at the Church of England Mission Hall, at Lower Circular Soad Baptist Chapel, and at Union Chapel Independent Mission Hall. At Barrackpore also, on the banks of the river Hoogley, ten miles from Calcutta, he preached on the evening of Feb. 1st to a large congregation. On Sunday, Feb. 3rd, Mr. Müller conducted services both morning and evening at Lall Bazaar Baptist Chapel, and held meetings repeatedly afterwards at other places of worship in the city, including the Wesleyan Church, Sudder Street, and Trinity Church, in which building he addressed a very large luitive congregation, on the evening of Feb. 28th, with translation into the Bengali language by one of the native pastors.

On the afternoon of Maich 6th we went by railway to Serampore, thirteen miles from Calcutta, where he held two meetings, the first of which was conducted in a large Hall at the College at 3 o’clock, where he addressed a company of native students, with translation into the Bengali language; and the second was held at Serampore Mission Chapel, where, at 6 in the evening, he preached to a large congregation of Europeans, and of natives also who understood English. On the afternoon of March 8th, at Albert Hall, my husband addressed an assembly of 200 educated natives, consisting exclusively of Hindoo gentlemen (or “baboos” as they are called), when no ladies, either European or native, were present; on Sunday the 10th he preached both morning and evening at Lall Bazaar Baptist Chapel, and on the 14th attended a vernacular service, at 5 p.m., at which he gave an address in English in the open air, in the Compound where that Chapel stands. This service was attended by Europeans and by Hindoos also who understood English, and he was followed by brethren who spoke to the natives only of the congregation, either in Hindoostanee or in the Bengali dialect. On the evening of the 20th he held a meeting at the Bengali Church, Dharamtolla Street, where, with interpretation by one of the native pastors, he addressed a mass meeting of natives, which included many Hindoos from other Churches; on the morning and evening of Sunday the 24th he preached at two of the Chapels in Calcutta, and on the evening of March 27th conducted a service at a native Church, with translation into the Bengali language by one of the native pastors. He continued, too, to hold meetings in Calcutta up to April 4th, but as he preached again and again at the same places of worship, it is unnecessary to repeat the name of each Church, Chapel and Hall, where these various services were held, because they have already been specified.

Finding that the heat at Calcutta by this time was becoming extreme and most oppressive, the thermometer day after day being 110 degrees and upwards in the shade, on the afternoon of April 4th we left the Boarding House where we had been staying, accompanied by John Nathaniel, a native servant from Madras, whom we had engaged on Jan. 2nd, soon after our arrival in Calcutta, to travel with us throughout India. As we drove along the streets in a gharry to the railway-station, the sun shone down upon us with a fierceness that is beyond description. At 4.30 we started by train from Calcutta, and arriving at Damookdea Ght at nine in the evening, went on board a large ferry steamer immediately. After crossing the river Ganges, we landed at Sara, and entering another train, which was waiting there, obtained a comfortable sleeping compartment to ourselves — Nathaniel, of course, continuing to travel by third class. At 10 the train started, and, after travelling all night, on the morning of April 5th, at half-past 8, we arrived at Siliguri, remained there for an hour, and then set off towards the mountains in a steam tram-carriage, with a roof overhead but open at the sides. Gradually ascending the Himalayas by a long, winding, circuitous route of 51 miles from Siliguri, surrounded by magnificent scenery, we reached Darjeeling, nearly 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, in the afternoon at half-past 4, after a journey of 24 hours from Calcutta, and went to the Manse, where Mr. H. R. Brown, the pastor of Union Chapel, resides. Mr. Müller had time, however, to preach four times only at Union Chapel, and to hold one drawing-room meeting at the Manse, because, finding the sudden transition from the intense heat of Calcutta to the comparative cold of Darjeeling exceedingly trying, we remained there only until April 15th. Accordingly, leaving Darjeeling by tram-carriage at 1 1 o’clock on the morning of that day, we returned to Calcutta, but did not arrive in that city until the following afternoon at 3 p.m., after travelling for 28 hours instead of 24, because a serious railway accident had occurred between Siliguri and Sara to another train, on the line of railway along which we had to pass, by which seven persons were killed, and 69 terribly injured, a melancholy circumstance which occasioned considerable delay.

At Calcutta the labours of Mr. Müller in the ministry were resumed, and he continued to preach in that city as usual; but scarcely were we comfortably settled again at the Boarding House, in which we had previously resided for thirteen weeks and two days, when the heat increased to a greater intensity than ever, so that it became necessary to consider what steps we should take, in order that, with the blessing of God, none of the diseases so fatal to Europeans in tropical climates, might suddenly seize upon and carry us oflF. The mosquitos, too, became increasingly trying, both by day and by night; and though large punkahs, in the drawing-room and dining-hall, were worked continually by coolies, and in our own bedroom a great punkah was swinging rapidly all day and all night long, nothing could satisfactorily abate the intensity of the heat.

I persuaded my husband, therefore, to consult a physician with reference to the climate, who told him that we ought not, on any account, to remain a day longer in the city than was absolutely necessary, and that, if we did so, it would be at the risk of our lives. We thought, therefore, of going to Simla, on the Himalayas, but, as that town is more than eleven hundred miles distant from Calcutta, the doctor said, that a long railway journey, under the burning rays of a tropical and almost vertical sun, would be extremely dangerous; so we decided upon returning to Darjeeling. On April 29th, therefore, we left Calcutta by the 4.30 p.m. train; but, soon after our departure from the railway station, my beloved husband — though an excellent traveller, and one amongst a thousand in his ability to endure fatigue — became so extremely unwell from exhaustion, produced by the amazing heat, that I was exceedingly alarmed, and feared that he might die suddenly in the

X —

train. I knew, too,’ that there were no hotels on the road, nor any railway stations at which we could stop with anything like comfort; so I persuaded him to lie down upon one of the long seats of the saloon compartment we occupied, in which, happily, there were no other passengers besides ourselves, placed one of the pillows we carry with us, when taking night journeys, under his head, and kept all the windows down, so that we might not lose a single breath of air. I fanned him repeatedly also with a large fan, persuaded him to drink a little of the wine and water, and to eat a few of the sandwiches, we had with us, and begged him, if possible, to try and sleep. When the train stopped long enough at the stations, too, and Nathaniel came to ask us if we wanted anything, I sent him to fetch a cup of tea for Mr. Müller, or a glass of lemonade; and, in answer to repeated, fervent prayer, managed to keep life in him until we reached Damookdea Ght, where we arrived at nine in the evening. There, finding that his pulse was good, I took courage; we went on board the ferry-steamer immediately, where, seated upon a chair on deck, he found the night breezes blowing over the Ganges exceedingly refreshing; and, at Sara Ghi,t, we went on shore. At that station, a comfortable sleeping compartment was secured for us by Nathaniel in another train; at 10 o’clock we started, and after travelling all night, in the course of which Mr. Müller slept soundly for several hours, the next morning (April 30th), at half-past 8, we reached Siliguri. From that station, we travelled by stestm tram-carriage up the Himalayan Mountains to Darjeeling, and arrived there in the afternoon at half-past four, when a jinrickshaw conveyed my husband, and I was carried in a “dandy” on the shoulders of Nepaulese coolies, up a very steep, long road to Bockville, a large Boarding House, in a beautiful situation, with a fine view from it of the snow-covered peaks of the Himalayan Mountains in the distance, when the weather is clear. There, in a few days, Mr. Müller regained his ordinary good health, and I am thankful to say that, through the Lord’s kindness, he became as well and as strong as usual. During this second visit to Darjeeling, he has preached habitually at Union Chapel, and has delivered lectures at the Town Hall, besides conducting Bible-reading meetings at the Manse, and preaching in the Theatre at Jellapahar, near .Darjeeling, for the benefit especially of the officers and soldiers stationed there, who are almost all Europeans. He has held one meeting for the Germans of Darjeeling too, whom he addressed in their own language, and has besides been occupied in writing the fiftieth Annual Beport of the Scriptural Knowledge Institution for Home and Abroad, of which he is the Founder and Director.

About the middle of June, when the monsoons will commence, and the heavy rains set in, so that the climate will have become somewhat cooler, we purpose (the Lord permitting) to return to Calcutta, and to proceed from that city to Umbala, on our way to Simla, after stopping perhaps at Patna, Allahabad and Cawnpore, in order

312 MISSIONARY TOUftS AND LABOURS

that Mr. Müller may hold meetings in each of those cities. From Umbala, where the railway in that direction terminates, and which is a station nearly 1,100 miles from Calcutta, we shall have to travel by d4k carriage and by tonga, vik Kalka, up the Himalayan Mountains, by a circuitous road of 96 miles to Simla, a town about 8,000 feet above the level of the sea, where we purpose to stay at an Hotel or at a Boarding House for ten or twelve weeks. At Simla, Mr. Müller hopes to have an abundance of work, and, as that town is a centre of great importance, because the Viceroy of India and the Indian Government are stajdng there for several months, as well as thousands of visitors besides, he has been told by missionary brethren residing in that place, that good done at Simla, with the blessing of God, will probably extend to various parts of the Indian Empire.

After leaving Simla, we hope to proceed to Delhi, and afterwards to visit Jeypoor, Ahmedabad and Bombay. From Bombay we shall probably travel to Hyderabad, and to Secunderabad, and, returning to the former city, may possibly continue our travels by railway to Bezwada, and thence by mission boat, either on the canal or on the river, to Nursapur and the Godavery District; but if we do not visit that District, we contemplate going to Madras instead, and from that city may sail, on board one of the large Steam-ships, for Rangoon in British Burmah, in order that, after holding meetings at the various places above mentioned, my husband may labour for the Lord there.

In the course of this present fifteenth Tour, since leaving Bristol, on Aug. 10th, 1887, we have travelled 26,593 miles by land and by sea, up to the present time (June 8th, 1889); and if we should visit all the places just mentioned, and go to Penang, to the Straits of Malacca, to China and Japan afterwards, for the second time, and finally return to England; by the time we arrive in Bristol, we shall have travelled about two hundred thousand miles altogether in the Lord’s service, by land and by water, that is, including the distances traversed during the whole of our long missionary journeys from March 26th, 1875, up to the very end of this last long fifteenth Tour. Our future movements are, however, extremely uncertain; we wait daily upon the Lord for light and guidance, and whether we shall be able to continue our travels in as extensive a manner as I have indicated, or not go to any of the places just mentioned at all, can be determined only when the time comes.

My own work, during our travels, has consisted in giving away little Gospel books and tracts, as well as publications for believers, of which I have circulated many thousands altogether, and which I trust, with God’s blessing, will be of great spiritual benefit to those persons into whose hands they have been directed. I have also written many thousands of letters for my husband in the course of the last fourteen years, in order that he might be saved the trouble of writing them himself.

Although Mr. Mijller has no property whatever of his own, no salary from the funds of the Scriptural Known I

ledge Institution for Home and Abroad, nor any stipend as a pastor, we have been able to spend thousands of wunds during the last fourteen years upon our long mis- I

sionary journeys. For sixty years my husband has trusted in the Lord alone for all his temporal supplies, and God has honoured the faith which he still continues to exercise in Him, by graciously giving us the money needed for all our heavy travelling and Hotel expenses. He has put it into the hearts of Christian persons, living at different places in various parts of the world (many of whom we had never seen, nor even heard of until their contributions came to hand), voluntarily to send us donations towards our own personal expenses, and has in every respect abundantly supplied our need. Our expenditure too has been greatly increased through living so much at Hotels and Boarding Houses, instead of accepting the kind hospitality of friends; but Mr. Muller has found it absolutely necessary to have a home of our own whenever this has been practicable, because we have found by experience, that staying for iy length of time at the houses of friends, has drawn far too much upon his time and strength, and has been so fatiguing, that, except under particular circumstances, he has been compelled to give it up.

I desire now to close this record of our travels, by expressing our deep gratitude to the Lord, for all His many mercies to us, in the course of these extensive missionary Tours. Times without number we have been shielded from danger; during our long journeys by railway, no accidents have ever befallen us, and though many times tossed about on board ship upon the ocean, during storms and tempests, we have never been shipwrecked, nor have we really suffered from these long voyages in the least. Many of these blessings, I doubt not, we owe to the prayers of Christian friends, whose supplications on our behalf I would therefore earnestly ask them to continvs. I would also remind the believing reader of the foregoing pages, that we have but “one brief life” that we know not how soon our earthly pilgrimage may end, and that we should seek, mth all earnestness, to devote that “(me brief life” to God; and should this book be directed into the hands of unconverted persons, to such I would say, ask the Lord to shew you, by the teaching of His Holy Spirit, that you are lost, ruined and undone; put your trust in the Lord Jesus Christ alone, for pardon and salvation; and seel to live only for Him, Time is short; delay is dangerous; and the stupendous realities of an eternal world will soon break in upon us. Dear reader, where will you spend eternity?