First Toils

When Dr Judson wrote to his future wife the words just quoted, he did not know how terribly the prognostic would be fulfilled. He did not fore see the perils of the Burmese war, and the unimagined horrors of the death-prison at Rangoon. And it is well for us that there is no Agabus to reveal the tribulations through which each must pass to the Kingdom, or to set fully before us the dangers and hardships which attend a new undertaking.

It was with a cheerful eye that Mr Williams and his comrades surveyed the scene of their projected campaign. But, as we have already said, they saw it to advantage. It was midsummer; and, as long as the ship remained in sight, the natives wore their summer faces, and appeared mild, and almost friendly. The voyagers arrived in health and vigor; and, in the excitement of strange circumstances, the perils and difficulties of their undertaking were materially disguised.

It was on the 5th of December 1850 that the Ocean Queen cast anchor in Banner Roads; and, resuming Mr Williams’s Journal, we shall now trace the first proceedings of the missionary pilgrims.

“December 5. — At noon we proceeded in the ship’s gig to a small island called Dothan, lying betwixt Garden and Picton Islands. Captain Gardiner had fixed on it as the site of our intended dwelling-house, thinking it capable of being made peculiarly secure from its position and shape. Here we read an appropriate psalm, and offered prayer, and sang the doxology. The natives had followed us, and they stood gazing with wonder whilst we were so engaged. One passed into the centre of our circle, and now and then made an observation; and when we sang they all joined heartily with us. We then took possession of the island, and cut away the trees for a place where to fix our tent; but afterwards, in the course of the day, upon more consideration given, we abandoned Dothan, and chose our site in Garden Island. Here accordingly the axe was industriously used, and some large timber was cleared away. In the course of the afternoon, I shot a goose and a duck. In the course of the evening, what from being very tired and cold, and the rush of impressions being very great and forcible upon my mind, my whole body seemed to shrink from the hardships that were palpably before me; and my flesh, with a cowardly tremor, seemed to protest against the difficulties, the trials, and the dangers. Whilst I felt this, I knew it was but the weakness of the flesh, and although I could not, under its present weariness, quiet its alarms, yet I felt a firm and quiet resolution, if need be, to sacrifice the flesh to the cause of God and humanity. It was a trial and a war between the two; but the spirit within, strengthened by grace, offered the flesh upon the altar of sacrifice. Praise God, never did I feel more sensibly how God provides grace against the day of trial than in this instance.

“Tuesday, December 10. — To-day the first opportunity presents, of recording the events which have marked our career. On Friday last, early in the day, having selected a spot on Garden Island admirably adapted for our purposes, we conveyed to it bedding, apparel, provisions, and cooking utensils, and engaged ourselves most actively in clearing away a spot sufficiently large for our tents. These we erected, and by nightfall had everything pretty comfortable. We had two tents — one for the men, another for ourselves — and between the two a cooking-house or kitchen, made of poles we had cut down and covered with oiled canvas. The floor of our tent was covered with cork; over this, oiled canvas, which thus made a dry place for our beds. We had also begun a fence around our tents, which, on the following day, by the assistance of some of our ship’s company, we enlarged and completed, so as to be surrounded on all sides except an opening from the beach. It was amusing to see us all at work, each one plying the woodman’s handicraft; right and left, blows were being dealt, and the entangled forest resounded to our hatchets. We piled up a huge fire, and regaled ourselves with provisions kindly sent us from the ship by our excellent captain. We are indeed greatly indebted to him for unexampled kindness, he having constantly manifested the most generous disposition and an affectionate interest in all that concerned us; ever ready to assist us, and most hospitably and abundantly entertaining us during our whole voyage. The name of Captain Cooper, of the Ocean Queen, deserves to be remembered by us with respect and affectionate gratitude.

“We were undisturbed by the natives the whole of the day, and congratulated ourselves on this fortunate circumstance, as we hoped, by their not seeing our possessions, they would not be so excited to molest and pilfer from us. By eleven at night we were all so far straight as to be able to retire to rest, which all of us did, excepting the Captain and myself. We had agreed that each should keep a two hours’ watch the night through, and this the Captain proposed should be commenced by himself taking the first watch, commencing at ten o’clock every night. The Captain accordingly rigged him self in his sou’-wester and india-rubber overcoat and overalls; and thus armed against the rain, for it was pouring with Fuegian earnest, he sallied forth; and about half-past twelve, I succeeded him.

“I had not lain down, on account of the shortness of time before commencing my watch; and now that I was alone in the dead hours of night, surrounded by the dark masses of wood on the one hand, and the rippling waters on the other, with the rain pouring in heavy showers, and after a fatiguing day, I could not overcome the weakness of my frail heart, and I felt oppressed. The time of my watch hung heavily upon me; and I almost counted the minutes as they passed. Strange cries broke upon my ear; the penguin’s harsh croak, with the shrill whistle of some sea-bird, and many sounds that I could scarce account for, all tending to give an extraordinary character to the scene. I felt no fear, neither did I wish to be differently circumstanced; but I was weary, and I wished heartily for rest. Two o’clock came, and then was poor Mr Maidment’s turn. He had thrown himself down on his bed with his clothes on, and now he engaged with alacrity in the duty which fell to him. Selfish nature was glad of the opportunity to exchange positions even thus with a friend and a brother, and to comfort itself in the warmth and repose of bed. I slept soundly, and awoke the next morning ready to resume the labor of the day. We persevered all Saturday in completing our fence, and arranging matters to our satisfaction, and still we continued unmolested by any of the natives, — a matter somewhat surprising, had we not hence conjectured that they were going to give the intelligence of our arrival to others of their acquaintance.

“Toward the evening, however, we had intimation of their approach; and three of them, whom we had before seen alongside the vessel, came up to us. They appeared no way surprised at what they beheld, but greeted us with apparent good nature, yammer-schoonering after everything they saw, and moving in a sidelong manner towards the enclosure of our tents, anxious to look in; but we intimated our disapproval of this, and they were very tractable. These three were very peaceable and quiet, imitating every word we spoke, catching at any oddity they observed in our manner or doings, and laughing, and seeming altogether so well disposed, that we had good hope of maintaining a friendly footing with them, and have no reason to fear their molesting us. As the evening grew late, Captain Gardiner made signs to them to leave us, intimating that it was time to go to sleep, by laying his head on his hand, and then gently directing them to the entrance. They readily perceived our wish, and without hesitation departed.

“We had not provided meat for our food this day. For this purpose I went out with my gun (for we have first to shoot or fish, before we can dine); and having brought back a goose and a duck, a stew was made of these, with the addition of some wild celery we found in the woods; and having finished the day with prayer, we again took our repose by sleep.

“Forcibly convinced that we ought not to suffer the Captain to share the duty of watching, I begged him that he would allow us to divide it entirely among ourselves, which, after some trouble and entreaty, he at length consented to do. At two o’clock I was called to take my post. The morning was fine and quite light, and everything around wore a pleasing aspect. The two hours I now spent, I trust I shall never forget. I felt the precious influence of the Spirit of grace and love upon my heart, and never were my impressions of divine truths so forcible; never did I feel more sensibly the vanity and littleness of all human things, save as they bear reference to the eternal and invisible kingdom of God, I was much affect ed by the thought, that what the poor natives of these islands were to us, so thousands and tens of thousands of the inhabitants of so-styled civilised lands were in God’s sight — savages in their enmity against a just and good and holy God. I clearly saw that I had not so much danger to dread at the hands of these poor wretched natives, as at the hands of polished and civilised people: those would only assault my body, and rob me of a few earthly comforts, whilst the latter, by their influence and example, would rob me of an everlasting salvation. My heart, by the reflection, was drawn out in behalf of my native land, and, alas! I felt that there was spiritual wickedness in high places, and corruption working at the very core of human society. The blessing of God’s presence in a holy frame of mind, with great joy, was felt as I never felt before in like manner. The time very quickly passed away, very differently from the night before. Afterwards, whilst in bed, I was greatly led out in spirit to praise and bless God.

“The following day, Sunday, was spent very happily and profitably. I was engaged most of the day with my Bible, and in close communion with God, blessed in the sense of his presence and favor. During the morning services, just as we commenced them, the three natives we had hitherto seen came again and either sat or stood at our tent door. There they remained, for the most part very quietly, whilst we were engaged in worship, little thinking how nearly they themselves stood concerned in what we were doing. All things went on very quietly, and nothing occurred to disturb us until late in the afternoon, when we were startled at the mournful yelling cry of some of the women, from their canoes, like the prolonged howl of a dog. The Fuegians, who were with us at the time, immediately pricked up their ears, and making signs to us which we understood to mean that we were not to follow them, they departed in haste, and proceeded up to the head of Banner Cove, toward the outlet leading to Banner Roads.

Soon we perceived, by the help of our glasses, that some strangers were joining them. We noticed that our Fuegians took their spears with them before they went to meet them, and we imagined that the women might at first apprehend that the strangers were their foes.

“In the course of a few hours appeared the new-comers, who, we afterwards had reason to conclude, were from Navarin Island, and of the Yacuna tribe. We were immediately sensible that they were altogether a different people from the others. Their faces were quite blackened over, and they were sturdy and audacious in their bear ing, and, as we soon found, impudent and uncontrollable. Unlike the former, they were ready to resent every refusal of their importunate demands, and resisted our endeavours to keep them in check, looking at us with a most contemptuous and malign expression, and, by their demeanor, plainly be speaking mischief. They were very well made, and, but for the diabolical passions expressed in their countenances, really good-looking men. Like the others, they had the crown of the head cropped close, and the fore part like a circlet of long hair hanging over the face. Like the others, too, they were perfectly naked, except the guanaco skin, which hung loosely over their shoulders and back, and which they occasionally folded together around their arms. Each wore a necklace made of small shells. With five of these men around us, prying into everything, the other three have ing now put on a less pacific deportment, and almost entering our tent by force, our situation was not agreeable. It required all our vigilance to watch their motions; and, from their whispering together, and their bold attempts to look into our tents, we suspected that they were concocting some plan of attack. However, after a time, they left us, Captain Gardiner having very plainly expressed his wish to that effect. After this — and upon the conclusion of a very profitable service, during which, as has always been our custom on the Sun day evening, Captain Gardiner read a very excellent and encouraging sermon, and I read from the Scriptures and prayed — we set the watch and retired to bed.

“It had been agreed that, on the least occasion of alarm, a railway whistle, provided for the purpose, should be blown. Accordingly, a little before four o’clock on Monday morning, we were startled by its shrill sound, and were out of bed and dressed in an instant. The cause of the alarm was the coming of the two black-faced natives. It was raining heavily and a very disagreeable morning, and we were a little uncomfortable at so early an intrusion. The Captain and Mr Maidment, together with poor Bryant, who was on watch for the time, encountered them, I returning in after a while, as did the Captain also. Mr Maidment and Bryant being left, had a great deal of trouble with them.

One of them had the audacity to push the former quite off his seat, although he is a much bigger made man than the native himself. They also would have taken off Bryant’s boots, had they not been forcibly resisted. After remaining two hours, they grew tired and left us. But in the course of the morning, whilst Mr Maidment and I were out in the boat with Captain Cooper, the same men with some others again visited our tents, and so determined was their conduct, and so utterly contemptuous, all but bordering upon open hostility, that it was quite manifest we could no longer stay on shore, and Erwin came from Captain Gardiner with a message to Captain Cooper, asking him for hands to assist him, as he would at once strike the tents, and have all our things on board the boats. This was the original intention of Captain Gardiner; but he was anxious, while the boats were being got ready, and whilst the vessel was staying with us, to try an establishment on the land, so as to see what disposition the natives would evince. 1 was already firmly persuaded that the thing was impracticable, and was convinced that to prolong our stay another night would be attended with the loss of our property, and perhaps of our lives. I had only intimated these my apprehensions to Captain Gardiner, but did not press my opinion. I was therefore glad when I heard his determination to abandon the land, and take to our boats. For that purpose, last evening (Monday) all our things were again brought on board the Ocean Queen, where we shall remain for a few days in the enjoyment of all our former comforts, until our boats are ready.

“I should not omit to add that on Monday morning, at the moment the whistle disturbed me from my sleep, after some hours of troubled and anxious thought, I had just begun to slumber. During the night I could not but feel how portentous was our present horizon, and what dangers, difficulties, and privations awaited us on all hands. I greatly deplored the pressure of such thoughts, and resisted them over and over again with little success. But my compassionate Jesus helped me to look up to him as ready to help me even against myself, and to oifer up myself again a willing sacrifice unto God. In this frame of mind I had sunk to sleep; and when the alarm awoke me, it was just at the moment when I seemed to be hearing the songs of angels singing, ‘We live to Christ alone;’ and oh, how heavenly was the impression made upon my heart! how sweet the sound still ringing in my ears, ‘We live to Christ alone!’ How full of meaning the words, ‘Angels live to Christ alone!’ We live to him alone, so must you. Yes, yes, my Heart, my soul responded; by the grace of my blessed Saviour, I will live to Christ alone.

“I should also mention that whilst reading the Scriptures on Sunday, every word seemed to be a volume, and truly I could say that then he opened to me the Scriptures. Yea, I bless God, the Scriptures are become a precious treasure to me now, and I begin to verify the saying of Christ, that we must sell all we have, before we can go and pur chase the field containing the treasure of God’s grace and the riches of his Son. Oh! the world and Christ are opposed indeed. We must leave all if we would be his disciples: not that it is needful that we should all go into a heathen land to find the preciousness of Christ to our souls; but that all who seek after Christ should in no respect be conformed to the world. God’s love cannot be felt and known but where God’s will is obeyed; and his will requires of us, that we renounce the world, the flesh, and the devil, and live to God; glorifying Christ with our body and soul, which are his.

“On Saturday, in company with Captain Cooper, we took one of the Fuegians with us in the Captain’s gig, and cruised about for some hours. I shot a penguin at a considerable distance off, and this for the purpose of making an impression on his mind. He seemed somewhat impressed with the sight of the wounded bird, though not much interested in the gun, or curious about it; however, he did not like that it should be brought very close to him, and seemed to have some fear of it. We took the man afterwards on board the ship, and rigged him out in trousers, shirt, stockings, coat, and cap, which one and another provided for him; we also did the same for two other

Fuegians, who came alongside the vessel in their canoes with their families. Afterwards we took the man back with us to our station; gave him the bird, which, when some of his companions, five in all, including two children, joined him, he put on the burning embers, singed the feathers, then plucked them, and having laid it on the fire again for about a quarter of an hour, it was ready cooked according to their taste; and then, borrowing a knife from one of the men, which he was honest enough afterwards to return, he dissected it, giving each one of the party a portion. These again bit off pieces and gave them to each other. And thus they devoured the whole, without the least part being left except the bones and feathers, shewing us such a specimen of rapacious voracity and expertness in dismembering and clearing the bones, as we had no conception of before. I also shot a large bird, the bald-headed vulture, which I gave them; this they carried off to their families for a repast at home. We have been disappointed in finding no fish in any of the waters about us, neither catching any ourselves, nor seeing any with the natives, with one exception only, and then only a solitary one. Yesterday, we took courage on seeing some large albatrosses in the act of devouring a large rock salmon, which they had a minute or two before caught. The absence of fish is the more important to us, as the Captain, having observed plenty with the natives when he was here before, had fully reckoned on them, and had provided no store of animal food, not even beef and pork. One thing more to be noticed now, is the remarkable aptitude of the people at imitation. Of this we had a striking instance on Sunday last, when talking to one of the boys. Not a word we uttered, but he repeated it over; not a question we put to him, but he answered us back in our own words, and imitated our every movement, so that it was quite ludicrous to see the child, as well as tiresome to talk with him.

“Tuesday, Dec. 17. — In company with Captain Cooper, we dined on shore in honor of the Captain’s birthday, and to celebrate the naming of a point of land after him, called Cape Cooper. It rained nearly all the time we were at dinner, but we proceeded therewith as coolly as though we had been in the sunshine, indeed somewhat more so.”

Owing to some indispensable repairs, the Ocean Queen had been detained in Banner Cove longer than was anticipated; but the time was now arrived when she must proceed on her voyage, and take leave of the missionary settlers. They availed themselves of the opportunity for sending letters home; and a few paragraphs from one which Mr Williams addressed to his sister will interest our readers: —

“December 13.

“You will see, my dear Anne, by what I have written to C., where we now are, and how we are situated. You can enter into my feelings. You know the source which supplies my consolations, and the fountain whence my joys arise. God is all-sufficient for us, if we are his children in Christ Jesus, and put our whole trust in him. All who have hitherto inherited the promises have been strangers and pilgrims, and this, by God’s grace, I am now. Rejoice therefore, my dear A., and know that all things shall work together for my good. Be not uneasy and apprehensive concerning me; but let your heart be glad that I am thus called to serve God and live to him. I believe I shall be spared to return to you again. But what ever be the will of God concerning this, we do know his will concerning our meeting together in his own presence, where there are pleasures for evermore. Then all will be lasting and secure: no more change, no more partings; but every tear will be dry, and the songs of our rapture will abound. The lap of comfort is too often the nurse of sin and sorrow, whilst the thorny path of duty, although through the wilderness, is the sure road to everlasting bliss, and fruitful in heavenly joys. Cheer thee up, then, my dear A., and seek with me first the kingdom of God, and live in the enjoyment of the love of Christ.”

“WIGWAM, BANNER COVE,

“December 18.

“MY DEAR SISTER, — We have this day taken leave of the ship and all on board; and now, with our boats moored alongside of our station, or rather the place appointed for it, and in a wigwam of our own building — made of trees, thatched at the sides, with a fire in it — not far from the wigwams of the natives; with the woods of Picton Island on the one side, and separated from Garden Island by Banner Cove; seated on the earth for my floor, I now write these last few lines again to say fare well, and to bid you God- speed. God bless you. All is well, dearest A.; the Lord does greatly comfort and strengthen me.

“I have received a very pleasing testimony from the Captain of the ship and the passengers and crew, who united together, and purchased from one of the passengers a gold watch, with a gold chain, a silver pencil-case, and a gold ring. This handsome present was given me to-day by the Captain, in presence of all the company on board, with a very flattering memorial drawn up and read. They allege as the motive to this very handsome conduct, the services I have rendered to many of them; but I can sincerely say that nothing was farther from my expectations, and that I was conscious of no such desert. I simply performed a duty that devolved upon me. Several of the men, even the sailors, wept on my taking leave of them, and seemed to feel greatly on leaving. They also pre sented Mr Maidrnent with a ring and pencil-case. He really deserved their esteem; for I never saw any person more kind in his attentions to the sick, nursing them, cooking for them, and assisting them at all hours of the night. I regard this expression of their kindness as a good evidence that their hearts have been somewhat touched by the profession we have made of the Lord Jesus, and I hope that the grace of God may more deeply and permanently aifect them.

“I must close. My love to C., to mother, &c., and to all my dear friends. To-night the ship leaves us. I shall not go on board again; but a boat shall take this on board.

“All is well, God be praised! It is beyond all thought blessed to be given up entirely to the service of Christ. His consolations and the comforts of the Holy Ghost are infinitely precious, and far outweigh all privations we have to encounter.

“Farewell, farewell!

“Your ever affectionate brother,

“RICHARD.”

It is the twofold glory of Christianity, that it infuses fresh tenderness into the relative affections, and yet, when needful, it can subordinate or supersede them. Mr Williams had warm feelings naturally, and religion made them warmer; and the parting with loved friends was the sorest pang in his departure for Fuegia. But as distance did not impair his attachments, so these attachments did not weaken his zeal. He did not put his hand to the plough, and turn his eye to his English home; but, whatever might be his secret hopes for the future, he gave all his heart to the work before him. The love of Christ constrained him, and the sacrifice of earthly endearment which he had made for His sake, helped to render that Master’s authority more august and his favor more precious. And if it be a fine spectacle to see a home-sick but oaken-hearted sailor like Collingwood, sustained by a simple sense of duty — keeping his post one weariful year after another, when a flower from his own garden would have been more welcome than a forest of laurel, and a sight of his children more prized than a step in the peerage — it is surely as great a lesson to see the Christian missionary self-exiled from what he deems an earthly paradise, and, in a calling which admits no earthly recompence, bound to a barbarous shore by no other mooring than compassion for his fellow-men and loyalty to his Lord in heaven. It would be wrong to print the outpourings of brotherly and friendly tenderness, and the yearnings homeward with which Mr Williams’s letters overflow; but, having been allowed to read them, we confess that they have greatly exalted the writer in our eyes, and have imparted to his mission another element of martyrdom.

Returning to the Journal, we resume the record after the sailing of the Ocean Queen: —

“Our ship was seen getting under weigh at about nine o’clock on the morning of the 19th December, and in a few hours we lost sight of her. God speed her, and all that are in her! About ten o’clock on the same morning we ourselves prepared to leave Banner Cove, in search of a place where we might deposit some of our stores, our boats being too much crowded. We could not stow any in the immediate vicinity, on account of the natives. Accordingly, we got under weigh, but the wind was ahead of us at first. We had to make several tacks, and were sometimes puzzled in the attempt. My berth was in the Pioneer with Captain Gardiner; but, as he required two of the sailors with him, I exchanged places with Bryant, and went on board the Speedwell, which was under command of Erwin, Badcock being with us. Thus we were divided, Captain Gardiner, Mr Maidment, Pearce, and Bryant in the Pioneer, and we three in the Speedwell. The Speedwell was much the heavier laden of the two, and greatly encumbered with stores. In addition, we had a heavy raft of timber fastened to our stern, and towed after us. I now turned to, to assist for the first time in the management of a sailing craft. I soon was able to handle the mainsheet, in working the boat, ’ hauling aft ’ and ’ slackening off,” brailing up ’ and * furling,’ as required; and rigged out in most of the gear of a sailor, with sou’-wester, a blue serge shirt, and heavy sea-boots. The wind was blowing fresh from the N.E., with squalls of rain, and, although some what gloomy the weather, and chilling, we set off in excellent spirits. After tacking about for more than an hour, the Pioneer got the start of us, by weathering on one tack the point of land projecting from Garden Island, and we lost sight of her. In attempting to do the same, the raft we had in tow came on our weather bow, whilst we were in stays, and we were driven leeward considerably. We now tried to wear her, but, owing to a field of kelp on our lee bow, she would not go round, and we saw ourselves fast drifting right on the surf. We were startled and amazed at the suddenness of the danger, as well as by its imminency and greatness. It was scarcely credible to our senses, that, in the course of a few minutes, and almost at the instant of our losing sight of our companions, we should be exposed to such a peril as was now before us. All was anxiety and alacrity to do whatever we could. The anchor was hastily let go, but, owing to the mass of kelp and bad holding-ground, it came home until we were in the midst of the rocks. Destruction now, indeed, threatened us, and poor Erwin was almost beside himself. * The boat, the boat will be lost! — she’s done for, she’ll go to pieces! ’ was the poor fellow’s repeated exclamation. We did our utmost, by means of the boat-hooks, &c., to keep her from being heaved by the roaring swell on the rocks. Now she was broadside, and all but upon them; now her bow was really in danger of being stoved: we were first at one part, and as immediately at another, our hands being fully engaged, to keep her from striking. Betwixt two and three hours we continued thus, in constant and unceasing effort, till at length we were somewhat relieved by getting a spring on the cable, on which I held for an hour longer, whilst Erwin and Badcock fixed the boat-hooks. The wind was blowing hard during the whole time, with increasing blasts at intervals, and the surge was furiously dashing about us. For more than four hours together had we thus to contemplate the probability of our destruction; and if our lives should be saved, yet now, separated from our companions, all our provisions gone, if left on shore, helpless and destitute, and at the mercy of the natives, the prospect was not pleasing. Were such my thoughts? They

might have crossed my mind. But they were not my thoughts; my thoughts were altogether different. The grace of God so strongly supported me, that I felt not the least alarm, and was all along confident that we should again get off in safety. Indeed, I could not help thinking that I was too insensible to our danger, and too little affected by it. Certain, however, it was, that not a struggle nor one emotion of fear occurred to me. I felt that, whatever the result might be, all would be well, for God had the ordering of this, as well as of any other circum stance which should betide us. Poor Erwin, as yet 1 a stranger to the grace of God, gave way to passionate paroxysms of grief, not on account of any danger to himself, but on account of the apprehended loss of our boat, and the injury we all, as well as the mission itself, would sustain thereby. Dear fellow! his feelings reflected honor upon him, as well as his unparallelled exertions. After remaining in our dangerous position the time before specified, a lull occurred in the wind, and we thought it a good opportunity to make an effort to get out, and push round the rocks into open water. It was, however, a most critical juncture, and presented certain destruction if we failed. Falling down before God, we sought his direction and help in prayer, and upon rising from our knees immediately proceeded to cut the chain cable; but, not succeeding in this, we let it go altogether. And now, although destruction appeared inevitable, the swell launching us broadside with great force in the direction of the rocks; yet, by the mercy of God, the danger was averted, and, after exerting ourselves to the uttermost, we found ourselves out side the rocks and round the point. Here again another difficulty presented itself. Our rudder had been unshipped and carried away, and, before we could get any command of the boat, the wind and tide drifted us against the opposite small island, Round Island, when we had again to make strenuous efforts with our boat-hooks. Hardly had we escaped this when we touched some sunken rocks and shoal water, but were again mercifully preserved. On getting free, we took the only alter- 146. FIEST TOILS.

native left us, and ran aground on the shelving beach of Garden Island. Now, thank God, there was rest for the soles of our wearied feet. We hauled up the boat, and gave God praise. Happily at the time no natives appeared. Had they been present and witnessed our distress, humanly speaking we should have been altogether in their power, and in all probability must have fallen victims to their cupidity. But the providence of God was over us. The Lord is our shield. It was late in the day when we got here, and now, without any hope of seeing our companions this day, the wind being strong and against their putting back, we passed the night, sleeping very soundly till the time of high water, about three in the morning, when the boat was again afloat, and we once more got her into Banner Cove.

“Friday the 20th passed, and we saw nothing of our companions till past midnight, when we were aroused from sleep by their shouting and rattling against our boat. How happy were we to see them returned and safe! They too had their difficulties. After losing sight of us they had proceeded, thinking we should soon follow them, and after surveying several entrances on the north shore, had found an excellent harbour about twenty miles from Banner Cove, which Captain Gardiner named ^Blomefield Harbour, after Sir Thomas Blomefield, former secretary to our Society. Here they passed the night, remaining till the weather afforded them a hope of returning to seek after us. Shortly after our separation they lost both dingies which they were towing astern, the heavy swell having snapped the chain by which they were fastened. They found the boat not altogether fitted for sea, at least for rough weather, having no scuttle on her fore hatch way, and leaking greatly from one of the bolt-holes in the knee of the bulk-head, which added much to their perplexities. Captain Gardiner was, however, highly gratified in having found a harbour so excellently adapted for us as he deemed Blomefield Harbour to be, where he thought there was every facility to complete the fittings-up of our boat, and to overhaul the Pioneer for her leak, and likewise, as no natives were seen, where we might deposit our ample stores.

“Bent upon this, we again set out in company at about ten o’clock, on Saturday the 21st. The morning was very fine, with light breezes, but against us; so that, when in Beagle Channel, we had to tack about all day long, and made but little way. However, all was very pleasant, and we kept in company until the evening, when our boat, the Speedwell, got considerably ahead, and we at length lost sight of the Pioneer. We stood on our course, and, by the directions given, we got abreast of the entrance to Blomefield Harbour. Surprised, how ever, at the delay in the Pioneer coming up with us, we kept cruising about during the night, and seeing nothing at all of them, we in our turn became alarmed for their safety. Accordingly, about six in the morning, a fine breeze springing up in favor of our return, we put back for Banner Cove, hoping they might have returned there. Abreast of the Cove we at first saw no indication of them, and were just in the act of standing out again for sea, thinking that somehow or other they must have passed us in the night, and got before us into the harbour, when Badcock got sight of the boat masts and a flag flying at the top of one of them. She was but just visible, and we were greatly puzzled to account for her position, as well as alarmed at seeing her as we thought disastrously stranded. We got up to her as speedily as possible. Blessed be God! our first salutation from Captain Gardiner was, ‘All is right, but had you not come, all would have been wrong, They had put back on account of the light wind, to pass the night in our old locality, and had entered by Cook’s Passage, but the tide, on ebbing, had receded further than was expected, and had left them aground. A large party of the natives had come back to Tent Cove, and had been harassing them much. Just as our boat hove in sight they were mustering their forces, and our little party fully expected an attack; but if they had any such intention, our coming caused them to abandon it. Early in the morning the natives had quite taken our friends by surprise, and being ashore, they clambered up into the boat without there being any possibility of preventing them. At this moment, so critical, the Captain with his little band knelt down and offered up prayer to God, the natives standing about them; and it was apparent that during the time a real change took place in the countenance of one in particular of the natives, and they were all remarkably quiet and subdued. As soon as the tide was at full, the Pioneer was got off, and both boats got under weigh.

“Tuesday, December 24. — At Tent Cove, early in the morning, our alarm whistle was blown to apprise us that the natives were coming off. This was about four o’clock, and all hands were immediately on deck to be prepared in case they meant to attack us. The natives consisted of eight men with their wives and families, in three canoes; they came alongside, and we deemed it prudent not to let them approach so near as to be able to spring on board. They, however, shewed no actually hostile spirit. We rather anticipated they would, especially as the night previous they had hung up white streamers on their canoes, and painted them selves white, which we understood to mean hostility; and we did not know for what purpose they all were mustered together and put off in company. As we gave them nothing on this occasion, but intimated rather our dissatisfaction with them, they soon left us and went out of the Bay into the Beagle Channel. The natives being gone, we availed ourselves of this opportunity to get back our raft of timber, which was lying on the beach opposite their wigwams; and we also succeeded in recovering our chain and ground tackle, and also a raft which we had constructed in place of our dingies. In the evening we buried, or rather stowed away, all our surplus provisions, an excellent place being found for that purpose on Garden Island.

“Wednesday, 25. — Took up our position at Banner Cove, and overhauled the Pioneer, to get at her leak. Christmas day was, as almost every day had hitherto been since we got on board the boats, a day of bustle and work; this was unavoidable. Our Christmas dinner consisted of preserved meat, and some wheat-meal dongh with a few raisins in it, which we enjoyed as much as any epicure in England could enjoy his well-spread table and delicate viands. We remembered our dear friends, and in God’s name blessed them.

“Thursday, 26. — The natives returned, and came up to us in a very friendly manner, and we bartered with them for some small fish, which they had speared; they then passed on in the direction of their wigwams, but we saw nothing more of them that day.

“Tuesday, 31. — Up to the present time, no thing very material has occurred. We are now getting into something like settled habits, as respects our new quarters and altered cirumstances.

Two things have happened of a disappointing nature, which it has rather puzzled us to make up for. One is, that whereas Captain Gardiner was in expectation of there being abundance of fish here, we find literally none, saving the small ones caught by the natives, but we do not know where they obtained them. The other disappointment arises from our having left our stock of powder on board, so that we can no longer supply ourselves with ducks and geese, of which there are plenty here. Anticipating neither of these failures, no large provision of animal food was made; only two casks of preserved meat, and one of pork, the latter purchased from the Ocean Queen. Consequently, our diet consists chiefly of wheat-meal and oat-meal, with rice and biscuit, cheese, butter, and molasses.

“Thursday, January 2, 1851. — Yesterday was with me a day of humbling and bowing down be fore the Lord. Every circumstance that has occurred in this land of storms and desolation, has tended to the same end — to humble and abase me. The natural man has day by day been crucified. The privation of accustomed comforts, the vicissitudes already experienced, the trying duties de volving on us, the dulness and great inclemency of the climate, the solitude of the scenery, the uninviting character of the natives, and the apparent hopelessness of contending against so many difficulties, — all these things the flesh has had to be loaded with, and, together with its own fears and repinings, to be nailed to the cross and yield up the ghost, whilst in the room thereof Christ should be raised up and found in me the hope of glory.”