New Trials

Had the funds of the mission admitted of the pur chase of a vessel of a hundred tons burden, the mission party would have been comparatively independent. As soon as it became dangerous to remain on shore, they would have found a secure refuge on ship-board; and, in the event of their provisions failing, they could easily have proceeded for supplies to Port Famine or the Falkland Isles. In that case, they would also have been saved the fatigue and anxiety of hiding their stores where there was great risk of the natives finding them; and instead of creeping round these dreary coasts in boats too small to weather a storm, and which could scarcely offer them a dry berth when the day was done, they would have faced the blast with some confidence, and they would, at least, have lodged in comfort.

As it was, with their shallop launches, as soon as the Ocean Queen took leave of them they were almost as completely imprisoned in the Fuegian islands as was Alexander Selkirk in Juan Fernandez; and to reach a Christian settlement across such turbulent seas, would have been little less than a miracle. On the other hand, as Mr Ritchie represented to Captain Gardiner, the chances of European vessels visiting their rendezvous were very small, and it would have required a powerful inducement to tempt any to such a dangerous deflexion from their usual course. But with a noble ardor the leader of the expedition longed to enter on his cherished project. He knew that there were fish in the sea, and abundance of birds on the shore. He had with him provisions for six months; and before these should be expended he calculated on fresh supplies from England. And although none knew better the wildness of these waters, should it be found impossible to propitiate the natives, he trusted that on some unfrequented coast, or afloat in some tranquil cove, he and his comrades might hold out till more effectual means were placed at their disposal.

Already, however, several elements in this calculation were annihilated. To say nothing of the unsuitableness of low- decked boats, whose iron roofs condensed the vapor and kept a perpetual rain dripping on the berths and floors, their serviceableness from the first was materially impaired ‘by the loss of the two “dingies,” which were intended as a communication between the launches and the land. By a fearful oversight the gunpowder was left in the ship, and it was now on its way to San Francisco; and although there were fowling-pieces and good marksmen in the party, they had less power to secure the game with which they were surrounded than the savages who had nothing but their slings. And, although they had brought with them a net, this also they were destined to lose; so that, in a climate beyond all others requiring warm shelter and generous diet, these devoted men soon found themselves without cordials, without animal food, without dry clothing, without a single material comfort.

But not to anticipate the narrative, we resume the Journal of our meek and cheerful missionary: —

“Lennox Cove, Wednesday, Jan. 8, 1851. — Another eventful period has elapsed, and introduced new scenes, and brought fresh trials; but, praise God, the good providence of God has been marvellously manifested. As previously mentioned, the natives caused us some alarm, by their mustering together at an early hour on the morning of Tuesday the 24th December; but we could not be sure, though we had a strong suspicion, that their intentions on that occasion were hostile. They passed on, and did not return till Thursday the 26th, when they shewed a decidedly pacific spirit, but we were surprised to see nothing more of them after that time. We did not know whether they left the Cove the same evening or the morning following; nor did we know their motive for leaving again. It might be that they were planning some mischief against us, or it might be that they were going to fish. We, however, cheerfully entrusted our keeping to God, and determined to wait the order of events, and to act as circumstances should direct.

“That the Fuegians were not to be trusted, and that our property was a great excitement to their cupidity, and that they would go any length to gain possession of it, we were now well assured. The art of dissimulation is very perfect among them: when they were few in number, and while the ship was present, their demeanor was quiet enough; but when they were upon a par with us, the ship being gone, matters were altogether altered.

“The boldness and troublesome conduct of the party who disturbed us whilst in our tents on Garden Island, aiforded us one striking instance of their disposition. On that occasion, there were only three or four of them; yet we had some difficulty to keep them from thrusting themselves into our tents, and repeatedly since then we had occasion to notice the haughtiness of their bearing and the forwardness of their conduct. This was more particularly the case with the individual whom, for the sake of distinction, we named ‘Jemmy.’ This man was cry well formed and featured, and most active in his habits: unusual energy and quickness of mind were very perceptible in him. But all this was for evil, and not for good: he was the ringleader, and acted in some measure as chief. He was. a daring and determined spirit, and his pride and consequence were exhibited in his rejecting with contempt anything of a trifling character, whilst he shewed a sound judgment in appreciating aught of a useful nature. On one occasion he passed back a preserved-meat can, which the others always gladly accepted; and unless it was a knife, or a nail, or something of the sort, which was given him, a withering smile passed across his lips. If we might judge by the working of his features, his opinion of us was altogether contemptuous.

“A rather singular circumstance is connected with the coming of this individual and his party, which happened on the Sunday evening, whilst at our tent as before mentioned, it was then that the peculiar and dismal yelling cry, a loud and prolonged wail of the women in their canoes, moored to the kelp, was set up. We also thought that this ‘Jemmy,’ as we called him, was in all probability acquainted with a spot where we found the mutilated and charred remains of a human body, the skin of the head and face being undestroyed; and we were not without a suspicion that he might be the perpetrator of this work of malevolence. A sling was found near these remains.

“Another thing to be noticed in ‘Jemmy’ was his frequent change of complexion. At first he and his companions were painted black; this was after wards exchanged for white streaks, and then gave place to a very tastefully executed ornamental painting of white dots very orderly arranged. One of his two wives, as we suppose the young women to be who were generally in his canoe with him, was painted precisely like him, which we took to express his favor towards her. Both these were finely made persons, and really good looking; they had each an infant at the breast. I have been greatly struck with the quiet sftid easily abashed deportment of these young persons, and with their utter subjection to their master. ‘Jemmy, how ever, appeared to treat them kindly, and whatever beads or light articles we gave him, he handed to these companions.

“After some days had elapsed, the natives returned on Saturday morning, January 4, about seven o’clock. The signal was given by our look-out, and ‘Jemmy ’ and some others of our old acquaintance were soon alongside. But we found that others, to the number of eight canoes, were coming in sight; and as there are usually two men, and sometimes more, in each canoe, we knew that their strength was greatly superior to ours. Captain Gardiner got his glass, and he plainly enough saw that they were come purposely to attack us, as they were well provided with their war spears; and moreover, they were taking in stones from the beach, the most certain evidence of their hostile intentions. No time was now to be lost, and with all speed both boats were got under sail.

“Several circumstances here are to be recorded of the mercy of God to us. Had we been lying in Tent Cove, as the day before it was proposed we should, we never should have got out of it in time. Or had we had our tents rigged, as we all along had until two days before, when the high winds compelled us to take them down, we should not have been able to get the boats ready soon enough. Or had we not had moorings independent of our anchors, which we had but just been able to pro vide, we might not have been able to weigh our anchors in time to escape. And, lastly, had not a breeze sprung up just at the very minute we wanted it, we could not have got out and prevented the attack. As it was, we were able, by God’s good and merciful care, to get out before they had time to enclose us.

“The marks of disappointment and chagrin were but too evident in their manner, when they saw us safely passing beyond their reach. It was a merciful manifestation of God’s care, and truly he answered our trustful expectations and dependence upon him. Had we been well armed, and come to open conflict with them, our chance of success had been poor; but to resist them and to do them harm, would have been as great an evil, and as deeply to be regretted by us, as our receiving bodily injury from them, and would have occasioned a double necessity for flight. I had made this very thing a special subject of prayer; for the thought of injuring them, even in self-defence, is horror to my feelings, neither do I think I could lift up my head any more, were such a thing to happen. In our sudden flight we had to cut away the raft we had built as a substitute for our dingies, as well as the hawser by which we were moored. We were also in the exigency unprovided with water, having but a day’s allowance or so with us, and without wood for our fire. The Captain thought our only course was to go again to Blomefield Harbour, the same place we had tried to reach before; but on getting out into the Bay, it was clear we could not attempt it, the boats not yet being properly rigged, their scuttles not being on, and without bulwarks, — the spindles of both rudders being broken, and having no other where with to replace them. We therefore determined to sail eastward, and shaped our course accordingly, under favor of a fine fresh breeze from the west. On making the south-east point of Picton Island, we sought to find a cove on the south side, but in vain; and about noon, a dead calm coming on, we lay for some time anchored to the kelp. Here Captain Gardiner offered up a prayer to God, in gratitude for our merciful deliverance. Whilst we were lying here, the Captain expressed himself as being now entirely left to the directing hand of God, and that nothing remained for us, but to leave it to his good providence to direct us where next we should go. His original intention of fortifying

Dothan Island, as he proposed in that case calling it, but which was afterwards, on the abandonment of the scheme, called Round Island, had been frustrated; as had our effort to take up our abode in Picton Island, and our several efforts to find a suitable spot on the north shore of the mainland, particularly our purpose to reach Blomefield Harbour, which the Captain thought so admirably suited to our wants. In fact, we had devised no thing that had issued in success, and we seemed to be getting disastrously crippled; being now without means altogether of getting ashore, unless unusual facilities should be afforded in the character of the harbour. New, Navarin, and Lennox Islands, remained for us to go to. Navarin had the disadvantage of being peopled thickly with the natives, but the light breeze which after a time sprung up seemed to determine in its favor. We accordingly for some time pursued our course for Navarin Island; but about midnight it fell calm, and continued so till near three o’clock, when a breeze from the N.W. sprang up, which soon increased to a heavy gale, and now, wind and tide against us, and unable to beat through the channel, we bore up for Lennox Island. We ran before the wind, passing every creek and cove, in search of a suitable place for anchorage, and between nine and ten, on the Sunday morning, Jan. 5, arrived off Lennox Harbour. We anchored during that day in the harbour, and next morning weighed for the purpose of grounding the boat. The wind being ahead, we, that is, the Pioneer, were just on the point of running in on the beach, when the wind taking her aback, she was driven among a reef of rocks, and escaped destruction as by a miracle. A sharp-pointed rock was just cleared by her, and her quarter was in imminent danger of being stove in on another mass of rock. She, however, ran on a little sandy bed, and escaped all the rocks most marvellously, so that afterwards, when the tide had ebbed, we were astounded to see how remarkable her escape had been. It was rather singular, that just at the moment I heard her bouncing against the ground, I was calling on the Lord in my morning prayer; and though conscious some thing was wrong from the hasty movements and anxious expressions overhead, yet I was assured of our safety, and altogether without any perturbed feelings.

“The Speedwell took the land where it was proposed she should, — the beach, happily a sandy one, affording very favorable means of getting ashore. There was nothing very inviting in the appearance of Lennox Harbour, or the island; but a resting-place from storms, where we could lie some time undisturbed by the natives, and complete our boats, was very desirable, and we felt truly thankful when we saw neither wigwam nor natives in the harbour.

“The day after our arrival here, we found that we could not get either boat afloat, the tide on the previous morning being higher than usual, owing to the force of the tempest, and it being the second or third day after spring-tide. We must now wait till the next spring-tide, some nine or ten days, and if natives come, we can’t flee from them. Bless the Lord, His hand has some secret but wise purpose here. We shall see by and by what it means.

“Thursday, January 9. — Last night I remarkably experienced the force of St Paul’s words, Eph. iii. 16. I literally felt the might of Christ strengthening me by his Spirit in the inner man. A powerful temptation to view our present circumstances with apprehension was forced into my mind. I felt that it was a device of Satan, and I instantly fastened my hold on the Lord Jesus. Delightfully did I feel that, leaning on his power, I feared no evil; and, with a sense of his presence to cheer and bless me, I had ’ a heart for any fate.’ Never did I experience so vividly that it was not I myself, but ‘Christ in me, that won the victory; or rather, that it was faith which seized hold on Christ’s right arm, and thus wrought the triumph. 1 seemed at the time as if, in my complete nothingness, I had a power in my hand with which I could resist the devil, and stand firm against all his wiles.

“Friday, January 10, Eleven P.M. — I bless and praise God that this day has been, I think, the happiest of my life. The fire of divine love has been burning on the mean altar of my heart, and the torch-light of faith has been in full trim, so that I have only had to wave it to the right hand or left, in order to discern spiritual things in heavenly places. With it this poor heart of mine, that so long has been a dark cavern, wherein with mournful consciousness of sin and vileness I have withdrawn myself and fainted at the rebuke of the Lord, has now been lighted up, and shewn to me both swept and garnished, sprinkled as it is with the blood of Christ Jesus. And now it is made a temple-shrine for an indwelling God. And lo! I have come out from my darkness, and am made light in the Lord, and, like Elijah standing on the mount before the Lord, I no longer pine in the sadness of gloom and disappointment, as not understanding ‘the ways of God with men,’ and his providential as well as his spiritual guidance of his children; but awakening up from my reverie, and finishing my journey in the wilderness, I learn how great is the mystery of godliness, and how needful is the chastening of the Lord to his children, whilst as a Father he afflicts us for our profit, and humbles and abases us by the rod of his hand, and gives us to feel our poverty of spirit, our helplessness, and unworthiness, as a needful preparation to our beholding his glory, and hearing the still small voice of his love. To-day, the voice of the Lord has sounded in my ears, ‘Come up ‘hither;’ yea, I have ascended up on high, and dwelt with God in love. Now, now, now, the Lord Jesus is in me the hope of eternal glory.

“Saturday, Jan. 11. — Another day of joy and peace, and sweet communion with my Lord. During the evening had a very sweet season with the men in prayer, each one, after the good old Methodist fashion, praying. Bless God, it was a favored time. The Spirit of God was with us, and we sang together with heart and voice. Erwin is, thank God, laboring under deep conviction and penitential sorrow for sin. I have no doubt now of his soon being one with us. This is indeed a matter of praise to God.”

The present circumstances of the mission party were very critical. Their boats were aground, and there was no prospect of getting them afloat for a week. And to make the peril imminent, two of their number returned from a walk with the tidings that there were natives in the adjoining cove. But amidst these dangers and disasters a holy joy was filling the mind of Mr Williams, and rendering him forgetful of every temporal evil. The only member of the expedition of whom he stood in doubt was becoming “a brother in the kingdom and patience of Jesus Christ;” and, under the teaching of the Comforter, his own spirit was surcharged with those sublime realisations which render the believer more than heroic. It is thus that he writes in his Antarctic Patmos: —

“Monday, Jan. 13. — Last night, I was awakened by thoughts crowding into rny mind. The eye of faith ran over the foundations of its hope, and discovered such glorious marks of everlasting stability. I saw a necessity for the atonement in the astonishing baseness to which our nature had fallen, and for the power and wisdom engaged in our restoration being nothing short of God — the eternal God manifest in the flesh. As clearly as I perceived that body and soul make one man, so clearly and certainly did I see that God and man make one Christ, ’ the Wonderful, the Counsellor, the Mighty God, the Prince of Peace.’ Now my soul drank plentifully of the streams which make glad the city of our God. Every feature of the Divine sacrifice acquired additional value in my eyes. I bowed before the Lord, and humbled my soul before him who saith of himself, ‘I am he that liveth and was dead, and, behold, I am alive for evermore, Amen; and have the keys of hell and of death.’ I felt that the inestimable price of my Saviour’s blood was put into my hand. I could not tell nor count the riches I was worth; yea,* I could scarce grasp the thought that all this was mine. But God strengthened my faith again, and I realised the glorious truth that with such a price in my hand I could buy all heaven and all the promises of God. I did apply the golden key to heaven’s treasury, and with it opened the store house of God’s exceeding great and precious promises. With glorious light streaming in my face, and my heart dancing for very joy, I saw such a meaning in the words, ‘Grace reigns through righteousness unto eternal life, by Jesus Christ our Lord,’ as filled me with wonder and •’ great admiration.’ Indeed, I was lost in wonder, love, and joy. Grace reigns! Mercy is on the throne of Omnipotence! Love is exalted, — to do its own will, to follow its own promptings, to give out of a full hand, to bless according to its boundless charity. Grace reigns! Jesus is enthroned! He who loved us and gave himself for us, has all power in heaven and on earth, and is ascended to give gifts unto men, and to dispense eternal bliss to his redeemed people. What I saw and felt of Christ’s love no tongue can tell. Heaven was begun below. How long I continued feasting on such a feast of fat things and on this ’ wine of the kingdom ’ well refined, I cannot tell. But some hours must have passed, for with the exertion of the spiritual and mental energies nature was all but exhausted. I was just on the point of dozing, when the imagery of Israel singing in the wilderness was presented to me: ‘I will give her her vineyards from thence, and the valley of Achor for a door of hope: and she shall sing there, as in the days of her youth, and as in the day when she came up out of the land of Egypt.’* I recognised the promise, and, whilst praise swelled upon my lips, melody was

* Hosea ii. 15.

NEW TRIALS.

made in my heart, and I felt the blessedness of an intimate communion with those who sing the song of Moses and the Lamb.

“0 glorious hope of perfect love!
It lifts me up to things above;

It bears on eagle wings;
It gives my ravish’d soul a taste,
And makes me for some moments feast

With Jesus’ priests and kings.

“0 that I might at once go up!
No more on this side Jordan stop,

But now the land possess:
This moment end my legal years,
Sorrows, and sins, and doubts, and fears,

A howling wilderness!

“Now, 0 my Joshua, bring me in,
Cast out thy foes; the inbred sin,

The carnal mind, remove;
The purchase of thy death divide,
And oh, with all the sanctified

Give me a ’ lot’ of love!

“Yesterday I held a prayer-meeting in the morning with the men; in the evening I read to them one of Mr Wesley’s sermons. Dear Erwin is thirsting after the righteousness which is of God. I am delighted to see his humble and contrite spirit before the Lord. Bless God, he is not far from the kingdom of heaven.

“Lennox Harbour, Saturday, January 18. — Come to-inorrow, Sunday, we shall have been here just a fortnight. Many have been the mercies we have experienced since coming here. In our utterly helpless state, both boats aground, and the tide not reaching anything near to them, we day by day verified the gracious and merciful protection of God’s providence in keeping the Fuegians unapprised of our situation, and hindering their coming. We did not expect to get off before the return of the next spring-tide, which would be at least ten days; and during this time, of course, there would be many possibilities of our situation being discovered. Jammed as the Pioneer was among the rocks, so that any one bent on doing us an injury could stand right above us; and to this add the weakness of our small party: and to human thinking, no position could present more occasion for apprehension and anxiety. But I believe not one of our party felt either, or if any one of us did, there was at least no indication of it; but our solicitude was hushed into repose by our hope in God. The boats were separated at some distance from each other, and we thus made two parties. It was to me a favorable occasion for pressing on the men the need they had, together with myself, of doubling our diligence to ’ make our calling and election sure; ’ and of uniting with them in fervent prayer unto God. The special presence of the Lord was felt on two occasions, whilst we held prayer-meetings. I have great hope of dear Erwin, that God will make him a blessing to us and to himself. It is this coming to the vital matters, and urging on the soul an immediate consideration of the truth as it is in Jesus; pressing home the conviction, at the same time carrying help to the stricken penitent, encouraging him to seek and helping him to find, according to God’s promise, a present salvation, — it is this which makes such a material difference betwixt our Methodistic mode of procedure and that of many other denominations of Christians. Many brands are thus plucked from the burning, who, according to a more formal mode of administering the things of God, might never have been saved.”

Captain Gardiner and Mr Maidment were members of the Church of England, and, in the hope of its being eventually taken up by some Church Society, it was agreed that the Fuegian Mission should be conducted on Church of England principles. This arrangement was with the entire assent of Mr Williams; but it is not wonderful that reminiscences of love-feasts and class-meetings should have mingled with his adopted churchmanship. And having in his three Cornish brethren so many live coals, it was all the easier to set the fire a-burning. His faithfulness and fervor were, we trust, blessed to the salvation of the only member of the expedition who had not yet tasted that the Lord is gracious. In being thus instant in season, Mr Williams set an example to every Christian; even as the personal urgency which Mr Williams justly claims as a distinction of Wesley an Methodism, is a lesson to all the churches. But, to return to Lennox Harbour, and our interrupted narrative: — “On the day of our arrival, we saw two fine Fuegian dogs, which led us to expect that the natives were not far off. In the course of the week we saw the dogs again, but still no natives. In the neighbouring cove there was a well-built wigwam, and an enormous pile of mussel-shells, the work, I should think, of many generations. Here, too, not far from the wigwam, we found human remains — a skull and bones of the extremities. In the cove on Sunday last, the 12th, we saw a canoe, and the smoke issuing from a wigwam, but when we looked the next day the natives were gone. We were well pleased to think they had not perceived us.

“Day after day we waited patiently for the moon to enlarge her borders and approach to full, that we might by the spring-tide get our boats off. On Wednesday we dug away the sand from under the Speedwell’s keel, and tried, by tackles and rollers under her, to get her nearer the sea, that we might make doubly sure of success. However, this was a vain effort, the weight of the iron decks renderingit utterly impracticable. We made greater efforts the next day, turning in a stream of fresh water and damming it up around her, and then using the lever and rollers as before; but with no avail. The Captain thought that the moon was at full that day, and as the tide was still deficient, not more than reaching to the stern of the Speedwell, which was nearest the sea, he considered that we had little hope of getting off at all, unless a similar combination of circumstances should occur, as was the cause of our driving so high upon the beach, viz., a gale blowing from the N.N.E. and a high spring-tide.

“Friday the Vlth. — I awoke, and sweet was the communion of my soul with the Lord in prayer. I felt that I could trust God, yea, for all things. It was sufficient for rne to know that my God ordered all events, and that he had all power to do whatever pleased him. Whilst thus hanging upon Him, it suddenly occurred whether I could believe that we should get out of our present difficulties. Faith unhesitatingly replied, Yes. But when? when wilt thou get out of them? When it shall please God. ‘Couldst thou not believe God was able to send his water high enough to float the boats this very morning? ‘Yes, replied faith. I could believe it without a doubt. ‘But now? ’ said the same questioner within me. ‘Now,’ I thought, ’ now? ‘It required only the pause of a moment to answer, ‘Yes, now. I do believe that God will send his water this very morning, and float the boats, that we shall get off.’ A wondrous power constrained me to believe it. It was no act of my natural, fleshly mind, but the Spirit of God gave light to see the Lord’s will, and that therefore I might believe he could precisely do what he suggested to me to believe. Scarce had the assent of my faith been given, when I heard one of the men, who had just got up, and gone on deck, say, ‘She is afloat! ‘From any natural ground I had not the slightest suspicion, much less intimation, of the fact. It was not long afterwards that our boat (Pioneer), which had so dangerously entered among the rocks, but as wondrously escaped injury from them, was once more in open water, and safe. The Speedwell was also sufficiently surrounded with water to have enabled her to float, only that the rollers which were under her raised her considerably, and did not allow of her getting off. This, however, she did the next day (Saturday), the rollers having been taken away. And thus once more we were out of our difficulties.

“The natural cause of this singular rising of the tide, contrary to our expectations, was, that here the difference between two tides is very remarkable, and it being so low the day before, we did not see any probability of there being a rise so much above the level of what it was only a tide or two before.

” As it was impracticable for us to continue any longer in Lennox Harbour, it being too exposed for us to ride safely at anchor, our tackling being not strong enough, and we had had enough of beaching the boats, we were fain to seek new quarters. Some few days before, the Captain, with Mr Maidment, had walked across the country to explore for a fresh cove, and found one which promised to answer well, and to which he gave the name of Mercy Cove. Thither we now directed our course.

“During the first week of our residence at Lennox Harbour, with the exception of seeing the two dogs, which crossed the beach and barked at us on two different occasions, we had no reason to think natives were near us. On Tuesday the 14th, a party came to us. It consisted of two men, and we believe one family. They were very quiet and docile, and one of the men very good-looking, with good feelings exhibited in his peaceful and pleasant countenance. It seemed quite unwarrantable and uncharitable to think evil of him, or to suspect he would do us harm. The child they brought with them was a very interesting little vivacious fellow. The father was most careful of him, and scarcely allowed us to handle him. He was well wrapped up in skins. All this was pleasing, and it is a pleasing trait — conspicuous in the Fuegian character, as far as we have yet been able to judge — their fondness for their children. As these were the only party that we saw whilst we were in the harbour, we were very easy as long as they continued with us. We could not tell, however, but that they might go off for others. They did leave us on the Friday, but came back on the following morning, and again in the course of the morning left us.

“Late on Saturday afternoon, at high water, after experiencing fresh difficulties in getting our boats over the irregular sand-banks in our way, and grounding repeatedly, at length we found all right, and shaped our course for Mercy Cove, a few miles south of Lennox Harbour. When abreast of a cluster of islands adjacent to Luff Island, we saw a large body of natives on the beach to the left of us, and our old acquaintance of Lennox Harbour on the island to the right. They were engaged in fishing or hunting seals, which were very plentiful near to the spot. They no sooner caught sight of us than, as usual, the uproar was great; shouting and gesticulating were the order of the day. Canoes immediately put off, and they paddled away with a speed which exceeded all our previous thoughts of their skill. We were now within a short distance of Mercy Cove; but it was evident that if we proceeded, the whole of the large party, consisting of about five-and-twenty persons, would follow us, and we should be at their mercy. We therefore regretfully turned back upon our path, and cast anchor in Lennox Harbour.

“Next morning, Sunday the 19th, just a fortnight after our first arrival in the harbour, the Captain thought it advisable to get under weigh again, with the intention of going to Cape Rees or Blomefield Harbour. His reason was, that he felt sure the natives would follow us, and we should not be able to spend a quiet Sabbath where we were; and he thought it very desirable that we should get off early, and arrive at our fresh destination, wherever that should be, early enough to M hold our religious services. We weighed anchor, therefore, soon after four o’clock; with a wind at first light and favorable, and a promising morning. However, we had scarcely got into Oglander Bay, when the wind freshened and became dead ahead. We consequently beat about, still persisting in our intention. Whilst tacking, the two boats ran foul of each other, and carried away our bowsprit, doing some slight injuries also to the Speedwell. It was a time of great danger, and the wonder is that one or both of us had not our bows stove in, — the rudder of the Pioneer not being seaworthy. We therefore bore away for Lennox Harbour, and reached it again. As we entered the mouth of the harbour, the wind being right ahead, and our bow sprit and jib having been carried away, we missed stays, and were obliged to run an anchor out in haste to keep ourselves off the rocks. Our position was a fresh instance of imminent peril. The wind now blew a hurricane; and at first our anchor dragged, and we were threatened with de struction; but the kelp did us good service, and we held on. Nearly the whole day the pitiless blasts smote us, and the foaming water raged around us, the. dark clouds pouring on us their pelting hailstones and deluges of rain. It Was really fearful. We were anything but sheltered, being nearly at the entrance of the harbour, and within thirty or forty feet of the rocks, against which had we dashed, we must inevitably have been lost. But God in his providential mercy was with us. We all felt, however, that we had done wrong in getting under weigh on the Sunday morning; and greatly did I feel relieved when I heard the Captain say that he also felt it wrong. ‘Never,’ said he, ’ never have I commenced a voyage or a journey on the Sabbath before, and this shall be the last time.’

“Reliance Cove, Wednesday, January 22. — On Monday following, the 20th, we again got under weigh for Blomefield Harbour, the day being fine. Our doing so was contrary to the impression I had derived from what had occurred on our former attempts. However, I gave no expression whatever to rny thoughts; and there were such great advantages to be reaped from the nature of the harbour, the serenity and completeness of the shelter, that it appeared very desirable we should go there. In our way to it we passed, about mid-day or some what later, Cape Rees, where a snug cove seemed to invite us in, and the wind falling calm, we dropped almost into the opening of it. Nothing, however, would do but Blomefield; so on we went as soon as the wind sprang up.

“We arrived off Blomefield Harbour at half-past eight o’clock. As we got in sight of the harbour, we saw several fires a little to the eastward of Cape Despard, and we were soon apprised that there was a good party of the natives present. Three canoes put off, and it being calm at the time, they shortly came up with us. Amongst them was one of our Banner Cove acquaintances, and a member of the league organised against us. There were some very fine men amongst them, who, one especially, we thought must belong to the main land.

“Our errand was now altogether useless. It was clear we should have no rest nor quiet, and equally clear that the natives would soon accumulate an overwhelming force, and overpower our small and feeble party. It was agreed that our only course was, late as it was now getting, to turn back upon our route, and make again for Banner Cove, as a temporary asylum. We kept under sail all night, it being for the most part of the time a calm, or but very little wind. Whilst we lay becalmed off the north-west end of Picton Island, a canoe put off, in which we found the intimate associate of Jemmy, the great concerter of the attacks upon us, and our most troublesome acquaintance. This circumstance at once apprised us that Banner Cove would be no shelter for us; for we were quite certain that the hue and cry would go forth, and that they would all be around us very soon. Thus being driven out of every asylum, and it being quite impracticable, in the crippled state of our boats, to beat about and dodge off and on from place to place, an opportunity was sought to confer together as to the course we should, in the midst of such perplexities, pursue. The Captain offered up prayer, — a prayer breathed in simplicity and godly sincerity, and in firm reliance upon the goodness and providential direction of our heavenly Father; and afterwards it was decided, that, as the only alternative now left, we should pursue our course to the eastward, and if unable to find a convenient cove, that we should go on to Spaniard’s Harbour.

“The wind favoring us, we proceeded accordingly. At half-past eleven we found a cove under Cape St Pio, where we might make at least a short stay, and get fresh supplies of water and wood. We accordingly anchored, and in the after noon went ashore, and walked over the headland till we came in sight of Cape Jessie. In the course of our walk, which, going and returning, occupied five hours, we saw a guanaco acting as a scout, perched on the highest point of land, and watching us with a very narrow scrutiny. It did not allow us to get very near, but, with a leap and a bound in the air, gave the signal to the herd and started off. We saw the footprints of these animals very numerous, and also many Indian paths. The only other trace of natives was a wigwam near the beach.

“Thursday, Jan. 23. — Having got the rudder put to rights, and having obtained fresh supplies of wood and water, we left Reliance Cove, at a quarter to ten A.M., with a fair-weather sky. As we passed one of the lying-out rocks, we were interested in seeing the number of fur seals which were grouped upon it. We were becalmed for a time, within a short distance of them; their gruntings amused us much. Towards evening the wind freshened, and we sought for shelter in Slogget Bay, and anchored for the night in West Cove.

“Next morning, Friday. 24th, we again weighed anchor at a quarter to twelve. We had a good run, nothing occurring to us but the loss of the sprit to the Speedwell, which happened while beating in for Spaniard Harbour, where we anchored at a quarter past nine P.M. We now hoped we were got to a place of refuge, where we might for a time, at least, have rest from our wanderings; and remembering our bad and troublesome and long passage in the Ocean Queen over the ground we had now with so much pleasantness and facility traversed, we were very thankful, seeing plainly the hand of our God in his mercy and favoring providence. To God we did unitedly give the praise and the glory.

“Next morning, Saturday the 25th, perceiving an opening from the sea to what appeared a lagoon of fresh water, we resolved to take up our position there. We got on shore, and I took a long stroll. Whilst pursuing my way along the bank of a mountain torrent, I was struck with the many advantages the country here possesses over what we had seen elsewhere. In some spots there was really good meadow land, and the scenery was pleasing — valleys, and copses of wood, with a bold range of mountains and hilly bluffs, meeting the eye in its furthest range. The sun was shining out quite warm; indeed, the weather was delightful, and I felt a real pleasure whilst contemplating the country around me, and joyous and pleasing hopes threw a radiance on my spirits. I began to think that even Tierra del Fuego had in itself natural charms and beauty, and that it could put on a pleasing aspect and claim our sympathy. But when, in addition to such physical enjoyment, I thought of the poor inhabitants of the land as eventually brought to the knowledge of a Saviour, I was overjoyed and full of praise to God at what I felt of his goodness, and at what I felt of hope and expectation from that goodness. In such a sense of God’s blessing and favor, I knelt down where no eye but His could see, and prayed, and gave thanks.

“Returning to the boats, I found them anchored off the right bank of the river — the side opposite to the one I had got ashore — and, as the tide was ebbing, they were both aground; and as they had no means of sending off for me, it was necessary that I should walk, and find a fordable place for crossing the stream. I therefore retraced my steps, and scrambled through copse and brush wood, some of which consisted of a species of currant-tree, and was so strongly entangled it was almost impossible to get through. Penetrating further inland, the country became more open and trees larger, and I perceived at a distance a few wigwams, which I thought it not prudent to approach any nearer, as I was already some miles away from the boats. I therefore crossed the river here, and after a long journey, now in the forest and presently again in the plain, with some difficulty in finding my way at all, I got back, having been absent five or six hours, both fatigued and hungry.

“We continued at Cook’s River until Tuesday, Jan. 28, when finding it to be very inconvenient for us to get ashore, as well as imprudent to be so long aground, we removed to a well sheltered inlet, which we called Earnest Cove. The weather every day for nearly a fortnight had been fine, the sun quite strong, and much light wind, with but occasional showers of rain. At Lennox Harbour we had it very fine, and in our various journeys, as well as since our arrival in Spaniard’s Harbour, the weather had been very fine, some of the days for a short time equalling in warmth and brightness a summer’s day in England. At nightfall, however, it generally becomes cold, though there were three exceptions in a fortnight to that, the temperature remaining high, and even close. We were much cheered by the prevalence of fine weather, and how greatly it had favored us we could not sufficiently estimate.

“Friday, the last day of January, after a beautiful day, the weather began to look squally and to rain heavily, and continued to do so all night. A heavy gale was blowing out in the offing, but we rode very snugly, protected from the wind which blew off shore, yet feeling the swell of the sea; and as the two boats were moored, one ahead of the other, with an anchor to seaward and a hawser to the shore, we felt the strain on them caused v j iLe sea, and most of us were kept awake throughout the night. I had remarkable impressions made on my mind. There were many vivid suggestions of danger, but never did I feel so unaffected by the thought. A very heaven of repose and love was around me, and my heart rested so assuredly and trusted so implicitly in God, that it was blissful to feel as I did. Awakened repeatedly by the jerk of the hawser and the strain of the boats, and hearing the roar and dash of the water around, and the pelting of the hail and rain, and the howl of the sweeping blasts, something would point at danger as present; but I quietly resigned myself to slumber, after communion with the Keeper of Israel, whose eye I knew was over me. Some time betwixt ten and twelve o’clock next morning, whilst calm and sheltered from the rough weather, I heard the Captain give orders for the Speedwell to cast off from our stern, apprehensive, it seemed, of the hawser giving way, as both boats were riding by it. Scarce a minute elapsed after this was done, before the concussion of the boat against the beach was felt, and almost as instantly a swell broke over her stern, and rushed into our dormitory. I could scarcely credit my senses. Another, and another thump, and another sea breaking in over us, confirmed me in the fact that something fearful had happened. On looking out, the Captain and Pearce were busily occupied with poles, endeavouring to keep her broadside from the surf; but this seemed next to impossible, as the water was pouring into the after part of the boat, tumbling right over the stern-sheets, and threatening to float everything. The poor Pioneer was not only thumping against the beach, which, being of sand, might not so materially have damaged her; but it was evident from the grating sound that her bilge was upon rocks. Owing to the force of the swell, no effort could keep her from swinging upon them, and she rolled backwards and forwards upon the surge, threatening to knock herself to pieces. It was useless to bail any longer, and we soon gave up all hope of doing anything for her, but proceeded as rapidly as we could to get our things out of her. Our Captain, always first in everything, now got into our so-called cabin, to hand out the things, and by this time our boxes were already floating, and the most of our goods were wet. Mr Maidment and I waded through the surf and the swell backwards and forwards, carrying ashore the bedding and tools as the Captain and Pearce handed them out.

By the time we had cleared out most of the cargo, the water had risen as high as the thwart, and the Captain’s two boxes floated themselves out into the stern-sheets, with their contents. My chest was too large to admit of being removed, and had to remain in.

“During all this time it was raining and hailing in heavy showers; and we looked most miserable. But I felt neither cast down nor much discom forted. A strong consolation sustained me; it was my God who gave it me. I have often, under ordinary circumstances, as being wetted by a shower of rain in England, experienced more depression and discomfort than all that I felt on this occasion. Indeed, the strong arm of God was so around me, that I felt more happiness in His presence and support, than pain in contemplating this disaster, or distress from exposure to the weather and the water. Besides, something seemed to whisper and tell me that all was right, that this was a movement of God’s providence in our favor. And I did not doubt but that it was.

“We had done all that could be done, closing up the fore hatchway, as not much water was in this section of the boat, and we had no alternative but to let her drive with the advancing tide and take the strand. It was impossible to carry an anchor out to sea, as, although we had the day before succeeded in making another raft, yet it was too light to bear the anchor and chain with a man on it; besides, the heavy swell of itself rendered this impracticable.

“Towards nightfall, it came on a storm of snow, and we were heartily glad to take shelter in a large cavern in the rocks, which opened to the sea, and indeed at high water it was cut off by the sea rising some way into it. It was very spacious, and after running some thirty yards back, branched off at either side like the letter T; but these flanks did not extend very far. Under extraordinary tides, with gales of wind concurring, from the shells cast up at the further end of the cavern, it was evident that the water reached even so far, — no very agreeable information to us, in prospect of taking up our night’s quarters there. However, we saw no cause for present apprehension, as the wind was not blowing into the harbour, and having lighted a fire near the entrance of the cave, after refreshment and prayer, we committed ourselves to God, as unto a faithful Creator.

“In spite of wet things, and in spite of all apprehensions, we managed to get a sound night’s rest. The roar of the water, as it washed through the archway of a huge rock forming a prolongation of one of the sides of the cavern, and met with another army of waves from the opposite side, and then, in a mighty struggle against each other, * heaving and foaming, came bellowing into our cave — this roar of the water disturbed me now and then, and the thought that, like some voracious animal, it was almost upon us, just occurred to me; but it could not drive away sleep from my eyes, for I was at peace with God, and had hope in Him. The disaster which had befallen us was singularly presented to my mind as ordered by Providence for our good. Strangely did I feel impressed that this was the case, and felt a satisfaction in seeing the stranded boat, that, but for my conviction that it was God’s doing, would have been most unreasonable. But seeing it in this light, how great was the mercy that spared us, and brought it about with so little suffering to ourselves, neither permitting irretrievable damage to our clothes and property, nor suffering us to be exposed to the inclemency of the weather without an asylum and the means of providing comfort!

“On the Saturday evening, before retiring to the cavern, the Captain still entertained hopes that the boat would be repairable, and that her damages were not very serious. Next morning, however, she was found to be stove in, and that by an unexpected cause. Upon the beach, but considerably above the tide of the previous evening, and not in a direct line with the boat, was a large tree lying lengthwise with its stump to the sea; and against this the boat had by the morning’s tide been driven, the sea rising higher, and the swell turning her bow right opposite the stem of the tree, so that her timbers were sadly stove in. And now also we found her bilge so much injured that all hope of saving her was at once given up.

“Sunday evening’s tide, and more particularly that on Monday morning, completed the work of destruction. On these days the weather continued most stormy, the wind blowing a furious gale, the sea foaming, and the lee-shore opposite presenting one continued line of breaking sea. Hail, rain, and snow, succeeded each other, or were all combined by fits and starts. We were entirely confined to our cave, which proved to be very damp, and the smoke of our fire drifting into it made it altogether no very desirable residence; although, in our emergency, we felt it to be indeed a mercifully provided shelter.

“On Monday evening, for the first time, we were able to hold communication with the Speedwell, the weather subsiding sufficiently for the crew to come ashore on the raft; and then we learned how great had been their apprehension concerning us, and their own alarm, Jest they themselves should undergo severe disasters by being loosed from their moorings. They were obliged to take their stove and attach it to a hawser ready to throw out as an anchor, in case her chain cable parted; consequently they could cook nothing, nor provide themselves tea all the time. We were happy again to comfort one another.

“We continued our residence in the cavern by night as well as by day, until Thursday night,

February 5, when we again made use of the after section of our boat as a sleeping-place, and on the Friday following we divided her into her original two sections, and hauled up the sound section further on the beach. Here we have at present, Saturday, February 8, a comfortable sleeping-place, covered with our oiled canvas, quite protected from the wet, though not quite beyond the reach of the sea should a very high tide roll in.

“My night in the cavern has been somewhat restless, feeling the damp and the gloom of it, and smothered by the smoke which is condensed within its walls. Again for four days in succession I have had all my linen, and nearly all my clothes, lying out on the beach to dry; being obliged to rinse nearly the whole of them, in order to clear them from salt water. But it required constant activity to improve every glance of sunshine, and to snatch them under covert at the approach of a storm. Owing to the constant rains the ground is now like a sponge, and the beach is crossed by streams flowing from the high lands through the woods, and washing away the sand in all directions. The mountain stream, where the flow of water is always abundant, has now become a perfect cascade, dashing its roaring torrent down from one level to another, with a very striking effect. How remarkable is our present situation! How striking is the providence of God! Here we have shelter and security; and here we propose to remain until the commencement of April, and only to leave here when the prospect of a vessel’s arrival draws nigh. How mercifully had God ordered that we, so weak a party, and so defenceless and helpless, should not be exposed to the irruption of the natives upon us! Had this asylum been rendered unavailing by the presence of the natives, none of whom we have seen since our arrival, what should we have done? I know that God could even then have provided for us; but, humanly speaking, our position would have been most dangerous. To have put to sea again would have been to expose our selves to the tremendous gales which incessantly have prevailed for so long a time, and which we could not possibly have weathered in our frail boat of seven tons burden only. And could we have got back to Picton Island, no prospect would have remained to us but to be hunted about from place to place, like a hare chased by the hounds.

“How evident that we were not in a position to commence, with such slight means, so arduous an undertaking! But all this is well; the Mission has been thereby begun, which, had we awaited for more efficient means, it never probably would have been. We are all agreed that nothing short of a brigantine or schooner of 80 or 100 tons burden can answer our ends, and to procure this ultimately ‘the Captain has fully determined to use every effort. Our plan of action now is to “rough it” through all the circumstances which it shall please

God to permit to happen to us, until the arrival of a vessel, and then to take with us some Fuegians, and go to the Falkland Islands, there to learn their language, and when we have acquired it, and got the necessary vessel, to come out again, and go amongst them. It is utterly impracticable ever to acquire the language by any other method, so far as human foresight can judge of such matters; and to sojourn amongst them before the language is known, would be to run in the face of certain de struction, and to tempt Providence, as much as to run under a falling wall or to leap over a precipice, and expect safety.

“When first I cast my eyes upon the work be fore me, and viewed the natives of Banner Cove, — the people to whom, by God’s mercy, I and my companions were sent to shew them an open door to eternal life, — it was with a profound ignorance of the means whereby so great a work was to be accomplished. I had no clue whatever in any plan that had been submitted to my understanding, and as to the steps to be taken I was in darkness; for in this the Captain consulted not with me, neither did he propound his plans more than the momentary intimation which preceded some new step, which the exigency of the moment had given birth to. Therefore, as far as my judgment went, I saw nothing practicable or feasible; but I committed the direction of our affairs to Him who, I was sure, would wisely and beneficently order all things by his providence, and who, I felt persuaded, would send light for our guidance in the very midst of our present thick darkness. A short acquaintance with the natives confirmed the unfavorable report which such writers as FitzRoy, King, and Darwin, had given; and in the forefront of all their actions it was visible that when they were the weaker party, they were mild and submissive; but the instant they had the prospect of taking us at a disadvantage, or unawares, they became presuming and full of mischief. Consequently, from the time we fixed our abode in Banner Cove to the present, I never saw any one way likely to lead us to success.

“The destruction of the Pioneer in Earnest Cove, is another of the acts of God’s providence toward us. How many had been the dangers, or at least apprehensions, we had experienced of our being separated one from another! Now in the Speedwell was nearly all our store of provisions, and a separation at sea must have been fatal to both of us. The Pioneer was also more difficult of management than the Speedwell, not answering readily to her helm, nor sailing so well. Both boats were ill manned; though under the permanent arrangement of our party, the Pioneer was worst off, as there was only one sailor, besides her commander, on board, though with Mr Maidment and myself there were four persons. Besides, the weight of the iron decks made them both top-heavy. When, therefore, the Pioneer met her untimely end, I was forcibly struck that it would prove to our advantage, in point of safety and satisfaction; though little absolute comfort could be expected from the stowage of seven persons, and all our effects, where there had hardly been room for three. But this was altogether a secondary consideration, compared to the danger of our separation at sea, and to the advantage of our being able to take so much better care of one boat, with undivided numbers. In this sentiment Captain Gardiner fully concurs. And yet, should not trust in God have led us to venture among the Indians at all hazards? My conscience tells me in what we have done we have acted with prudential consideration of actual circumstances. The facts were be fore us; we have been directed by them, and to have done otherwise would have been presumption and folly. By the grace of God that has been given me, I can say that in the moment of peril and when confronted by danger I felt no fear, but had a firm assurance that all would be well, with such a peace and serenity of mind as only God could give. Yet have I felt and do feel, that God requires us to act according to a just judgment and sober consideration of the actual circumstances of a case. When a danger is not vaguely apprehended, but is actually known to exist, we are not to run into it, but to avoid it. Faith never runs contrary to an enlightened judgment and just appreciation of things as they really arc; but it is the first to yield and acknowledge that here there is no way open., whilst also the first to inspire the confident hope that God will himself open a way, in a man ner different from any we know of, and in his own good and set time. So do I believe, and humbly do I acknowledge and thank God for all his manifold mercies and precious dealings with us.

“Saturday, Feb. 23. — For the last two days the love of God has been shed abroad in my heart, and he himself has been nigh, in all my thoughts, and, what was more, in all my affections. Praise, and prayer, and meditation on his Holy Word, were more than ever one constant act, and in all things I had liberty. The Lord’s blessing, too, was upon us in our meetings together with the men at night, and his Spirit was graciously poured out, producing great compunction of spirit and contrition of heart, with new and eager desires for the blessings of the gospel of grace in its fulness. On Thursday evening I gave the men a full view of the Lord’s gracious dealings with myself, shewed them how I had laboured in ignorance, and the many ways in which I had grieved the Holy Spirit. I also plainly declared the nature of that perfection which we are commanded to seek after, and I told them how God had visited my soul with his love and the baptism of his Spirit. Earnest attention was given me, and much affectionate rejoicing was manifested by these simple-hearted friends, especially my dear brother Badcock. A child of God indeed is he, — an Israelite indeed, in whom there is no guile. Never did I see any one who was more truly a meek and humble follower of the Lamb. He has long been walking with God in righteousness and holiness, and breathing a filial childlike affection to God in Christ. Often have I praised the Lord for providing this example of his truth — this simple proof of the effectual working of his grace, where the Divine image is reflected from a groundwork of gross material, and where the great Creator alone could have wrought so mighty a change.”