To Mrs. Coutts (Beyrout)
My Dear Mrs. Coutts, — I do not forget my promise to write to you; and as I know you will wish me to do so from the land of Israel, I make a point of writing you before I leave it I would have written from Jerusalem, but there were so many things I thought it my duty to see and inquire after there, that scarcely a moment was left for writing. Our Lord has dealt very kindly with us in all our joumeyings, although the fatigues have ben such as I never experienced before, and the dangers often very imminent. Yet praise be to Him on whose errand we go; He has let no true evil befall us.
The time needful to finish our work in Immanuel’s land has been much greater than we anticipated. Still this has given us an opportunity to see more of its hills and valleys, and ruined cities; and we have also the satisfaction of having visited the Jews and left a testimony for Jesus with them, in every city of this country where they live, .with the exception of Joppa. Jerusalem was the first city we visited where there are Jews. During our residence, the plague was daily carrying off* its victims; and as the Jews are poor, and most exposed to its ravages, we were greatly hindered in our intercourse with them. Still it was deeply interesting to mark their wan visages in the streets of the city of their fathers. They are quite different from the Jews of our country, or of France and Italy. They have little or no merchandise. Their whole time is devoted to reading the Law and the Commentaries of the Rabbins. They are broken down in heart by their distresses, and, like Manasseh in his affliction, much more willing to attend to one who speaks from God to them. Their appearance is very remarkable. The European Jews wear the broad German hat, or the high Russian fur cap. The beard is allowed to grow, and ringlets down the side of the face to distinguish them from the hieathen. They have a pale, thoughtful look, and are really waiting; for the consolation of Israel. The Church of England
140 FAMILIAR LETTEEd.
mUsionaries at Jerusalem are truly delightful men, and their success has not been small. Mr. Nicolayson acted towards us like a very brother, being our guide to all the sacred spots, and a most intelligent informant in all points which we desired to know. Mr. Pieritz, a Jewish convert, is a very singular man. His hold of the Gospel is like that of a little child, and he has great power with the Jews. He may be said, like Paul, to confound the Jews, proving that this is very Christ. One young man, named Joseph, has been fully brought to know the truth, and has gone to Constantinople for fear of the Jews. Another was baptized in Jerusalem, and has gone to London. Three Rabbis are at present under daily instruction. They are all determined to make an open profession of the faith. They are really earnest, devoted men, and may be a great blessing to Israel.
No place in this world ever did, or ever will, interest me like Jerusalem. It tells so many tales of God’s love and grace to guilty souls. It is, as it were, marked by the footr steps of Jesus; and so many promises of futunfe glory are»bound up with ft. If God has graven its vales on the palms of his hands, should not his children do the same? The view of the Holy City from a distance always disappoints, and makes you feel the words in Lamentations, that all her beauty is departed. 1 except the view from the Mount of Olives. As you climb up that interesting hill, every step reveals new beauty in the Daughter of Zion; or rather, you are forced to say, How beautiful it must have been! The valleys round it are so deep, the mountains so plainly standing round it on every side. Moriah covered with a Turkish mosque; “the high places of the forest;” “Zion ploughed like a field;” Jerusalem itself vast heaps of ruins and desolate houses, yet most beautiful in the pure air of an Eastern clime. It is a sight never to be forgotten. We stood there, at the very turning of the road where Jesus wept over the city. We lingered on it. Gethsemane, too, with its old olive-trees, was a pleasant and often visited spot; and you will not wonder if we tried there to pray. WS went out twice to Bethany — the only place on earth where the Man of Sorrows found a home. It is a very striking village, situated on the back of Mount Olivet, where the road to Jericho winds past. The fig-trees, and olives, and almonds, and pomegranates were growing luxuriantly among the ruined walls. But 1 must leave Jerusalem. We next visited Hebron, 20 miles south. The Jews here we found the most respectable of any in the land. They sent us a present of wine, and treated us very kindly when we visited them. The land is more cultivated near Hebron than anywhere else. The terraces are pleasantly covered with vines and olives. We tried to find the place where Abraham M^restled so wonderfully for Sodom and Gomorrah; and we sat beneath an aged oak, called Abram’s Tree. The caVe of Macpelah is covered with a mosque, into which we were allowed only to look. Every recot lection of Hebron is pleasant to me. I only wish that I could share the pleasure with my friends.
A most interesting visit to the Jews was at Sychar, where Jesus sat by the welf. It is situated in a lovely valley between Ebal, with its. bare rocky sides, and Gerazim, planted with gardens. The Jews are a small, but interesting company. One of us visited the ‘’vnagogue, where there is service every -ning and evening. The rest followed.
Each of us had a group of ancient Israel around him, atid reasoned with them out of the Scriptures. The European Jews speak German, the others Hebrew and Spanish. We have found it a pleasing exercise to tell them the Gospel in the holy tongue. We have almost everywhere found some who are deeply interested in us and our mission. We also visited the synagogue of the Samaritans here — 150 remain; I believe, the real descendants of the worshippers on Gerizim. We tried to lead them to the same living water where Jesus led the poor woman 1800 years ago. They are richer and prouder than the Jews, They made us take off our shoes before entering their synagogue, regarding it as holy ground.
We have seen Israel also in Kaiffa, in Tyre, and Sidon, and in Acre; but the most intereating places of any for Jews are Saffet and Tiberias — the one within sight, the other on the brink of the sea of Galilee. We just returned on Saturday last from visiting these places. Saffet is supposed to be the city set on a hill, to which Jesus alluded in his Sermon on the Mount. It is remarkably placed — the climate truly delightful. The view of the sea of Galilee beautiful beyond description. Once there were 7000 Jews here; but a dreadful earthquake on the 1st January 1837 destroyed great multitudes of them. It is one of their holy cities, and a favorite place with the Jews. There is no plague in the north; but the war with the Sultan having drained the country of all the soldiers, Bedouin Arabs are roving about, committing murder and robbery everywhere. This rendered our journey very perilous, and it makes the Jews go about trembling. All their* best clothes and valua* bles they have buried in the ground; and I never could have imagined such a realization of the words of Moses in Deut. xxviii. 66, Thy life shall hang in doubt before thee.*’ The Jews here were not so willing to listen to us; they were very suspicious. Still they gave us one of their houses to live in, baked delightful bread for us, and some of them attended most seriously. The synagogue service here is quite different from what I have seen in other places. The earnest cries and tears — the uplifted hands — the head bowed to the ground — and all this among venerable men with snow-white beards reaching down to the girdle — formed one of the-most touch-* ing pictures I ever beheld. Still Israel are like the dry bones in the open valley, “very many, and very dry;” but if we will preach and prophecy to the spirit, we will yet make them live, and stand up upon their feet, an exceeding great army. Should not Christians pray more for Israel in secret and in united prayer? Preaching and prayer are the divinely appointed means for saving Israel, Ezek. xxxvii. This is never to be forgotten. Should not the answer of our Church be, ‘* We will give ourselves to prayer for Israel, and to the ministry of the word to Israel.”
It was pleasant to encamp on the shore of the lake of Gennesareth. The cords of our tents dipped in the very water. It is a beautiful lake of vast extent; and the Jews told us, in a storm it rages like the great sea. We passed by the ruins of Capernaum, and wondered where Chorazin and Bethsaida are now — monuments of the truth of the Saviour’s woe, — an awful warning to parishes that have a full Saviour preached among them and will not receive him. In-returning to this place, we went to the top of Mount Tabor, where, in all likelihood, Jesus was transfigured. Mount Hermon, famous for its dew, lies immediately south; and over it we saw Gilboa, where David’s curse still rests, and the dew falls not Endor lay at our feet, and, still more interesting, Nain, where Jesus had compassion on the widow, and said, “Weep not.” On coming down, we heard that the wild Arab;8 were that very night .upon the hill, and that last night no .fewer than twelve persons had been muridered there. The next day, between Nazareth and Acre, one of our servants who had gone a little way before us, fell in with eight armed Bedouins, who immediately carried him to the mountains, bound him hand and foot, threatened to kill him, stripped him of all he had, and carried off his horse. Meantime we passed safely on. Thus the Lord lhas delivered, doth deliver, and we trust will yet deliver us. Pray for us, that we may be Iboth guarded and guided, and may have grace given us to execute our mission fully, j prayerfully, and faithfully. We purpose, if God so direct our steps, to proceed by Smyrna and Constantinople, through Poland and Prussia. You will have heard that the, two elder members of the mission have gone by another route. We hope that double in-FAHILIAK LETTERS. l47
formation may thus be gained. Meanwhile, pray for the peace of Jerusalem: for the promise is sure, they shall prosper that love her. Stir up all Christian persons whom you know, and especially ministers, to take an interest in this great work. And thus, whether the time be near at hand (as I believe it is) or no, our own souls shall not lose the reward.
As to my health, it must be much improved, or I could not endure these great fatigues — sometimes riding 14 or 16 hours in the day, under a burning sun. Still I fear I am not yet quite fit for the work of the ministry. I wish I could learn complete submission to my Father’s will. It is the hardest of all lessons. I hope you are keeping well this summer, and my excellent friend Miss Collier. Remember that this letter is half to her and half to you. I can never forget her; and hope she still holds up the hands of my successor as she did mine, by the prayer of faith. I thank my God upon every remembrance of her and of you all. Give my best regards to the worthy minister who dwells with you, and also to my good friend next door. I trust they both continue to find help, and comfort, and good success in their ministry; and O that we could always remember that the only right end of our ministry is the glory of Christ in the salvation of many souls! Pray for us, and for my poor flock, who lie heavy on my heart night and day; and the Lord make you all to increase and abound more and more in every thing that is well pleasing in his sight. Yours affectionately,
R. M. M’Cheynb.