To His Sister (Beyrout)
Betaout, 9l2nd July, 1839. My dear Eliza, — I have just returned from my evening walk among the tombs of the Mussulmans; and novir I think of beginning a letter to you, though it will be a long time before it reach you. How I wish you had been standing with me to-night to look upon the calm, clear, brightness of the Syrian sky, and upon the sea so perfectly smooth, like a sheet of molten silver — and the ships in the bay, every little cord so clearly seen — and then to turn the eye upon Lebanon with the last blush of sunset upon his towering heights! Or perhaps you would be more taken up with the strange groups that form themselves under the mulberry trees, or among the marble beautiful turbans and soft white robes of the Eastems — and you would be struck to see some enjoying themselves on the roofs of their houses — donnas and beautiful fairy-like children — their faces clearly seen against the blue sky beyond; and I know you would like to see each bearded Arab as he passed laying his hand on his bosom to wish you peace. It would be a great joy to me if you were here to share the evening hour after sunset. I can imagine your shouts of admiration. No other hour of the day would answer you because of the great heat. The thermometer is about 85°, I think, in the shade, which is not a very great heat; but then it is so still, there is so little air stirring, that the town is considered one of the warmest in Syria. I fear yo«u would languish under it, my dear sister. You would do better for the mountains. On Lebanon you may have any climate of the world you please. Would you like the air of India? you have only to take up your abode in the depth of some of its deep valleys, and there you will find an Indian sun indeed. Do you prefer the coolness of Lapland? you have only to ascend and pitch your tent among its snows. Would you like the genial climate of south France? you have only to pitch on the side of the mountains, where you will have flowers and fruits Id perfection. Ah I this is a delightsome land, if only the curse of God were lifted off. I never felt any climate so truly delicious* as the air of the mountains of Judea.
My last letter would inform you of the departure of the Fathers of our deputation to proceed more directly homewards by another route. We are anxious to hear how they have got on. I fear you would be made a little anxious by hearing of our remaining behind in this troubled land. I am sure mamma would. However, I am very thankful we did so, as we have now visited all the towns in this land where there are Jews, except Joppa. We have, during the past fortnight, made one of the most delightful tours that could be” found on earth, and I trust also with good success, as far as our mission is concerned. I am sure mamma will not be content without a journal; and therefore, if you will take your maps all in hand, you shall follow us every step of our journey. I told you that Mr. Caiman, a Jewish convert, is now our companion. He .and Andrew and I, and two Christian servants — that is, Papists — Botros and Antonio
—and two muleteers, one a Maronite, the other a Druse — set off on six active Araby horses.
Friday, Qth July. — Our old servants accompanied us out of the gate, and bade us good-bye with tears on both sides. We proceeded south from Beyrout, travelling at the swift walk of the Syrian pony. - Mount Lebanon, with its hanging villages, was over us several hours. I once counted 20 villages in sight at the same time. There are more inhabitants, I believe, in that mountain than in all the Holy Land. One part are Maronites, a kind of Christians, but image-worshippers, and of the deepest bigotry. The Druses are a mild race, the military possessors of the mountains; they are a kind of Mahommedans, though they sometimes claim affinity with Christians. In about 3 hours we reached the sea, and saw the sun go down, riding by its waves. We encamped about 10 at night at Nibi Younis, or the Prophet Jonah, being the place where the whale cast him on the dry land. I forgot to mention that we lost our way in the dark at the crossing of a broad river, but providentially regained it.
9th. — Early the Dervish, or holy man of the place, came for a present; poor old body, he was very thankful. Started at 6. In 2 hours I was in Sidon, riding on before. There is something lively about an Eastern town at morning’s prime. The country people are all bringing their cusas and melons to market on donkeys. The Moslem ladies, all in white with parti-colored veils, are wandering out to the tombs. I asked for the Menzellat Jehudi. A Jew soon took me by the hand and led me to his house, — tied up my horse, and made me sit down upon his mat. After some discussion on Ezek. xxxvii., he gave me in charge to another Jew who took me to the Synagogue. Here we soon had a congregation. They opposed more bitterly than usual. However, we saw their mind — got our information, and left our testimony. One of the Rabbis took us to his house and gave us cool lemonade. Sidon is a pretty place — on a high promontory running into the sea. Same day proceeded on our way to Tyre. Heard that a traveller was murdered on the road yesterday. Committed our way to God, and found all quiet. A plain extends from Sidon to Tyre — the range of Lebanon bounding it pleasantly on the east — the blue Mediterranean on the west. Sarepta id among the villages on the brow of the hills. You remember Elijah and the widow, 1 Kings xvii. We slept that night at Kasmia, a khan within sight of Tyre. I wish you saw a Syrian khan. Some of them are 4 walls and a door, and nothing more. The most have a kind of arched place for your horse, and a stone room within for yourself. Some, as the one at Kasmia, are surrounded with a high wall. We pitched our tent on the roof and slept very securely.” So he giveth his beloved sleep.’’
lOth. — Spent an interesting morning with the Jews in Tyre — first meeting with them in their wretched Synagogue, and then at the Rabbi’s house, who treated us with coffee. They were uncommonly attentive to us at Tyre. I dare say 30 came to see us at the khan, so that we had full work opening to them the Scripture. Andrew and I speak to them chiefly in Hebrew, and we get on better now. Mr. Caiman speaks the Arabic, and German, and Russian. A Jew led us about the town; the only one who had a little French. Tyre was once an island, now a promontory, being joined by Alexander with amazing labor. The causeway is quite evident, though the sand has made it now broader than the island. Old Tyre, destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar, was- on the shore some miles off. It is hardly known where it stood, though one of the greatest cities of the world. The fisher spreads his net over it. Left about 2, proceeding due east for Saffet. We soon got up among the mountains of Asher, and noticed with delight the rich olive trees, fulfilling even still the word of Moses, Deut. xxxiii. 24, “Let him dip his foot in oil.” We passed through some pleasant villages — Cana (not the one where Jesus made the water wine) and Zadiki — or “the place of righteous men.” We entered the mountains of Naphtali by Wady Deb, the Valley of the Wolf, just as the sun had set. It is a splendid wooded ravine. The jasmine, hanging from tree to tree, scented all the air; but the danger was great, both from wild beasts which abound, and from wilder Arabs — and also from the rocky steeps we had to climb. But a Syrian horse is a singular animal; if you just give t its own way, you need fear little. We were truly glad and thankful to get to a quiet village on the top of the mountains, where the peaceable fellahs came all about us to see and hear till near midnight.
nth. — We were awakened this morning by the tramp of horses’ feet. Saw a man fully armed looking in upon us. The next moment heard the voice of the French Jew of Tyre. They had got news of a poor Jew being shot by the Bedouins 2 hours further on, and they were come to carry him, dead or wounded, to Tyre. This was rather serious news before our breakfast; but it only had the effect of drawing us closer to our heavenly Guide. The Arab fellahs were going to some market, and wished us to go with them. I believe they wanted our protection; however, we thought it best to go the nearest way to SafFet. Such a splendid country we travelled through I never saw before — winding down wooded mountains, and then through narrow defiles into beautiful plains; but almost all is a wilderness. We had a good deal of anxiety all day. Kept all together and spoke little. We rested about 2 at a Maronite village, Caperbahum. You never saw such kind people.
One insisted on our going into his house, the best in the village, and it was all we could do to get remaining under our fig-tree — another brought milk, another eggs, another 2 young pigeons. There was a constant circle of admirers around us the whole time. The two Maronite priests were also very kind, and we tried to give them some light on divine things. This night we arrived safe in Safiet about dark. Andrew’s horse fell upon him coming down a rocky hill; he was not the least hurt, but the beast was lamed. How wonderfully we are cared for! The Jews gave us one of their houses to stay in.
I2th. — Saffet is a delightful place, being on the top of a very high hill. The air is cool and delightful. Twice this day we walked out to view the sea of Galifee, which seems to lie at your feet. It is djt hours distant. Solemn, calm, and still; it is unlike any other lake I ever saw. The plain of Gennesareth on the right side was quite evident, where Capernaum stood. Over a promontory we could discern part of Tiberias and the baths. On the other side of the lake the hills are steep and high, and come close on the lake. Oh! how you would have enjoyed this view. I read over most of the words of Jesus uttered there. We went to the Synagogue the same night to see the Sabbath brought in. There are four in Saffet. Such venerable men you never saw, with long white beards, and such devoted worship. Some lifted their hands as in agony — some clapped their hands — some held them clasped. All were in motion rocking to and fro. Their cries were sometimes angry ones as if they were angry that God did not hear.
I3th. — Set off early for Marona, a village high on Mount Naphtali, where we visited the tombs of several Jewish saints. Higher up the mountain we came to Jermach, a village, and visited some Jews who live there, far from the haunts of men. They gave us fine Jewish bread, and milk, add cheese; and we in return told them of the way of salvation. Andrew spoke in German, and I stammered in Hebrew. Returned to SafFet enjoying the mountain air. Same evening had discussions with the Jews in tw<o of their synagogues — very interesting. Therm, before dawn 58**; at 8 o’clock 6^^; at 1 o’clock 76°.
I4th. — Spent a pleasant Sabbath here.
Not without causes of anxiety. The poor Jews have buried all their best clothes and valuables for fear of the Bedouins. They keep a watch every night. We hear that the Bedouins this day robbed Mijdel, a village on the sea of Galilee, on the road to Tiberias. I do hope that our church may establish a mission here. But of this anon.
I5th. — Descended from Saffet on our active horses — Andrew having got a new one. In 3 hours we were on the plain of Gennesareth. It is delightfully watered by a large mountain stream, and by the fountain Capernaum. It might be made a garden, but bears only one field of dhura, and the rest thistles, and weeds, and defle* growing to an .amazing height. We passed under all that remains of Capernaum. We had a good deal of anxiety on account of the Arabs — several of whom we saw, but they did us no harm. Mijdel we found utterly spoiled, without an inhabitant. It is the Magdala where Mary Magdalene was born. There we rested under a tree, and we washed our hands and face ^;^ith joy in the water where Jesus had walked. Passing round two pro- * Oleander.
montories — a ruin and a well — we came in sight of Tiberias. Built of black lava, ruined by the earthquake, it has a most dismal appearance. We pitched our tent close by the lake. We spent the evening among the Jews. The German Jews we found very suspicious of us — the others kind. We visited their synagogues and reading-rooms, and had interesting discussions with them. A German doctor invited us to his house, and a Jewish widow brought a present of milk to our tent. To both we returned a little tea.
I6th. — Eeirly in the morning, Andrew and I rode to the bath, about 2 miles down the lake. It is a natural spring, so hot that you cannot put your hand into it. The bath is free to all, of beautiful marble, and delight* fully clean. There are attendants whom you may or may not employ. We swam twice round the marble pool. The effects we found truly delightful. We rode still south hoping to see Jordan, but could not venture the whole way. Same day we crossed from Tiberias west to Mount Tabor, and were on the summit by sunset. We had no guide, and therefore did not find the right way. Were obliged to lead our horses, the hill being so steep and rocky. It is a lovely hill; and here it is probable Jesus was transfigured. We got down the hill by the help of a little moonlight. We came upon some peasants watching their corn. They took us, and we took them, for Arabs; so that we were mutually relieved by finding out the truth. They could not believe that we had been on the top of the hill. Told us the Bedouins were there, and had committed 12 murders on the hill. When we reached the village, where we had agreed our tent should be pitched, our servants were all waiting to receive us. They said that the whole village was going to turn out in quest of us. Of the truth of all these things I cannot say, but we felt very thankful to our watchful God who had cared fcyr us. Ah, dear Eliza! we have all cause to trust Him who has so often delivered us. He that gave us Jesus, what will he withhold?
I7th. — I wish you saw the levee we held this morning. I am sure one half of the inhabitants of Daburieh were seated round us. Mount Hermon is on the opposite side of the plain. Endor, where the witch lived, we see
162 FAMILIAR LETTEfiS.
at the foot of Hermon; and the pleasant village of Nain, the scene of such divine tenderness, lies right before us. Mounting, we proceeded north, and about 9 o’clock reached Nazareth. It stands at the head of a pleasant valley, and is one of the best built towns in the Holy Land. The rocks are all very white, which makes it exceedingly hot and painful to the eyes. We saw the lying wonders of the convent — and, what was more pleasant, we examined the hill on which the city is built, to find out the precipice where the angry Nazarenes would have cast the Saviour down. We left about 2; and after partaking of Arab cheer in the shape of leban, or sour milk of Sephourieh, we crossed the vast plain of Esdraelon. Toward sunset we came to an old well at the opposite side of the plain. An old AraJ) mounted on an ass met us, and told us, with every expression of alarm, that 8 armed Bedouins had met him in the valley and threatened to take his ass from him, but it was not worth their taking. We held a council of war. Antonio was missing. He had ridden back to Sephourieh for a cloak supposed to be wanting. Some proposed halting till nightfall, and then going on in the dark. Some proposed going to a village in sight,, in another direption. Some committing ourselves to God and proceeding. Our muleteers and Botros were in great terror. We rode on in silence through the beautiful wady or vale of Abilene. About sunset we found Antonio’s staff. How it came there we could not conjecture. We met many unarmed Bedouins, and passed on unhurt. We slept at a village on the height above Acre.
18/A. — Arriving in Acre we found poor Antonio. He had come by a nearer road into Wady Abilene, and so got before us. 8 armed Bedouins rushed upon him, and with their long lances drove him off the road and up among the hills. Here they bound him hand and foot — stripped him of every thing — asked him of his company — took his horse and all away, and left him naked. He climbed into a tree till daylight, and then walked down to Acre. While they were robbing him we passed safely by. The English consul of Acre, who is a Jew, sfd, “You must be on a good errand, or God would not so protect you.” Even the monks acknowledged the hand of God in it* That night we slept at Nakoura, on our way to Tyre.
19th. — We rode to Sidon.
20th. — To Beyrout in perfect safety, and in good health.*
* For a contmuation of this Letter see page 196.