To His Sister (Genoa)

Genoa, Hotel de Croix de St. April, 1839.

Mt Dear Eliza, — This letter is to be addressed to you, as I suppose you will be returned from Dundee by the time this reaches beloved Scotland. My dear people and all of you have been much on my heart during these days, and you may be sure I am anxious to know how the sacrament was conducted in St. Peter’s — how all my friends were helped in their services — and if there were marks of good done to perishing souls. Ah, dear Eliza, every step I take, and every new country I see, makes me feel more that there is nothing real, nothing true, but what is everlasting. The whole world lieth in wickedness. Its judgments are fast hastening. The marble palaces, among which I have been wandering to-night, shall soon sink, like a millstone, in the waters of God’s righteous anger.

But he that doeth the will of God abideth forever. Happy, you and I, dear Eliza, if we have part in Christ, for we shall stand with him in glory when all the world shall sinl: in ruins. I wrote to Mamma when sailing down the Rhone. I have no doubt you have traced our progress on the map, and have a complete acquaintance with our route.

In a few hours after finishing that letter we safely reached Avignon in a lovely evehing. Avignon is the place where the Popes chose to build their palace; it is a city of palaces-T — “The arrowy Rhone” is there a splendid stream — broad, deep, and rapid. A ruined bridge of stone half spans the stream. Beautiful spires, and ruined towers, rise above the rocks; and the snowy Alps beyond complete the scene. The whole sail down the Rhone is one of the grandest in the world. We intended to. proceed to Marseilles the same night by Diligence, near 70 miles, but could not get places. I intrusted my letter to a gentleman’s servant to put in the post, and we agreed to proceed by the same steamer down the Rhone, in hopes of reaching Marseilles by sea early on Sabbath morning. The government packet for Malta was to sail on Sabbath at 5 evening. We sailed in sweet moonlight, and slept at Beaucaire. At 4 in the morning we sailed again to Aries, and then in another steamer still further down the Rhone. We grieved thus to use the Lord’s day; but felt it a case of necessity, and tried to make good use of our time. We soon gave tracts to all on board — mostly French, one German, one Italian, one English — all received them anxiously, rich and poor, passengers and sailors. It was my Sacrament day in St. Peter’s, and my heart was with my flock. It was a lovely sunshine morning. About 9 we reached the Mediterranean, when all of a sudden a wind, called Maestral, sprung up with great violence. Frenchmen lose all self-possession in a storm; and it was really amusing, if it had not been daiu gerous, to see how they ran about; one ran for the anchor, another for the cable, another to the helm; ail was confusion. In a few minutes we were driven close upon the shore, and were soon safely moored upon the desolate bank. We all disembarked and spent our Sabbath on the desolate island, the captain not daring to unmoor the ship. About a dozen of fishermen’s cabins, with a fig tree

FAMILIAR LETTERS. Sl

in their garden, and a vine over their door, a herd of asses, and a waste of rushes, formed the scenery of the place. The natives speak a mixture of French and Italian, which we could with difficulty understand. They seemed not to know the Sabbath from another day; some we found training their vine before their cottage door. We sat under a bush and read the account of Paul as shipwreck on Melita, Acts xxvii. 28, and on the whole spent a quiet and delightful Sabbath, Our course is entirely in God’s hand so we felt quite resigned to stay there, assured that this delay would in some way turn out for his glory. Mark how often the Apostles were hindered from going to places where they had fixed to go. Acts xvi.; so we wish to be guided. We could not preach to the- poor people, or we would have done it, but we sent a tract to every house. The engineer of our boat yas an Englishman, and gladly helped us in this. We commended ourselves and all we love to our heavenly Father, and slept on the floor of our cabin very comfortably.

Mediterranean, 22nd April, JJfonrfay. — The wind had greatly lulled. At 5 we were under weigh on the tideless sea; we sailed

along the bleak coast Soon it became bold and rocky, till Marseilles came in sight, the hills in the background reminding us of Scotia’s darling seat.** The country around is finely variegated and spotted with white villas. The town is strongly fortified, and we sailed far into its majestic harbor, amidst a forest of masts from every country under heaven, about 8 o’clock morning. We were strictly examined at the Custom House, a most disagreeable part of travelling in this country; I was thankful when we got to our comfortable inn. We called on one of the Protestant ministers, M. Monod, a fine young man. There are 150,000 people in Marseilles — nearly 2,000 Protestants — 3 pastors, who preach by turns to the same congrega* tion. They have a Sabbath school and day: school. They were very dead till two years; ago; since then God has given them living pastors, and the work of grace is commencing. We called on the Rabbi olF the Jews, ;and introduced ourselves; he was an intelligent-looking Frenchman of 40, exceedingly polite to us. His wife sat in the room. There are 1,000 Jews in Marseilles; few fam’eluk letters. 39

learned; few attached to their religion; most devoted to commerce. Dr. Black carried on a most interesting discussion with him, in which we joined as we were able. We went to the Synagogue with him — few were present. One Rabbi read prayers, then another concluded the service; at one time all prayed in silence. I prayed along with them, that God would take the veil away from the heart of Israel. Called same evening on Mr. Hayes, a nice English gentleman, who gave us much information; two of the pastors were present; we stirred them up in the cause of Israel. I forgot % mention that the government packet had sailed, and we agreed to go by the boat of to-morrow, which goes to Genoa, Leghorn, and Civita Vecchia. Marseilles is entirely a business town, yet a pleasant place; the air is truly delightful, very hot at mid-day, but pleasant morning and evening. The houses are very tall, the streets more regular than other French towns; one street has the ambitious name of Rue de Paradis. Alas, I fear there are few that tread the narrow way here; yet I remember Elijah and Martin Booz, and am thankful.

40 FAMILIAR LETTBRd.

MarseiUeSy 2Srd April. — On board tho Sully at 11. Fine steamer — people of all nations on board, Italian, IJnglish, French, Flemish, Swiss, German. Hot, hot sun, and a cloudless sky. Andrew and I got a delightful cabin )n the deck to ourselves. We’ sailed out of the harbor, and through the rocky islets that are in front of Marseilles. We coasted along; the precipitous banks are high, bold, verdureless; a whitish rock, a deep blue sea below. To the south without any bound to the eye. We began the reading of Italian with some spirit; thought of Paul’s determUlation, Rom. i. 15, and prayed it might be ours. We must now lose ten days before proceeding to Malta, and we have resolved on spending them in inquiring after the Jews of Italy. We would rather have been on our way to Palestine, as the hot weather is setting in; but God himself has shut us up to this course, and we hope he will bless us in it. We passed Toulon, the bay of the French navy, the place where Napoleon first pointed his cannon. The town lies low on the beach, as most Italian towns do; bare rocky hills form the background, with a circular olive valley down to rAMILIAR LETTER. 41

the town, [n the evening we passed the pleasant Islands of Hyeres, resorted to by invalids on account of their delightful climate. Dr. Keith pointed out to us the place he was sent to for his health, where the month of January was quite delightful. It is a lovely land, but gross darkness covers the people. The sun set sweetly behind the hills of Provence, — we thought up6n the martyrs of the Alps, and on Felix Neff. The moon shone most beautifully, bringing silvery smiles out of the dark waves of the Mediterranean. The sea is perfectly calm like a lake, and I find my health always improved on the water; my palpitation then entirely ceases; the bustling haunts of men bring it back. We had evening prayer in our cabin, and soon after committed ourselves to repose.

24th April, Wednesday. — Awoke on the coast of Italy. Alps descending steeply into the sea; many a sweet valley revealing itself. Strange hanging villages, with their graceful churches, often appear on the brow of the hill, oftener on the shore; the number of towns and villages is incredible, and there is never one without a spire. The papists know the true principle of church extension.

To provoke a smile, I have a good mind to describe our breakfast, dear Eliza, but I believe it would be impossible. It begins with different kinds of fish, then eggs dressed in various ways, then mutton, beef, chickens, messes without a name, young peas and po- ’ tatoes of this year, oranges, figs, nuts, and fruits of all kinds; the only beverage was wine. How happy I shall be to get back to plain fare again. Oh, for a cup of tea! I thought within myself. At 1, we entered the glorious bay of Genoa, or rather Genova, for now we must speak Italian — O bianchepalazzo di Grenova 1 Such a glorious sight I never saw before. You remember the town beside DunoUy* I forget its name.* Imagine it spread out into a circular bay of many leagues, and instead of a row of humble houses, imagine huge piles of marble buildings rising above one another, handsome spires, fantastic columns, and noble mountains behind, all green with olives, and all the heights spotted over with white marble villas; the bay filled with water of the deepest blue, and an Italian sky above, and you see Genoa. We were carri ashore in a swift * Oban.

boat under a pleasant awning, and tried our Italian upon the sailors. We asked for the British Consul. “O Sapiamo — Sapiamo /” they cried. The narrowness of the streets strikes me very much. In the older streets carriages could not go. In the Strada Nuova there is just room for tv to pass. They are very cool and shady, like Benares. Most of the houses have piazzas, and entrances, and staircases of pure white marble — many houses are entirely marble. In the moonlight they look inexpressibly soft and beautiful; some houses are of red plaster, some with paintings on the outside, which give too showy a look for my humble taste. The white veil worn by all the women is most beautiful; it covers the back part of the head and shoulders, and comes over the breast; some wear it of bright variegated colors. The number of priests is very remarkable — they swarm. There are from 90,000 to 100,000 inhabitants; 30 English, 150 Swiss,* 250 Jews. We called on the Consul, who was very kind, and on the Swiss minister. We call on the Jews to-morrow, and sail in the evening for Leghorn. May the Lord go with us! We care little for sights if we cannot do any thing in our great mission. At Leghorn there are 24,000 Jews. We hope to see Rome and the Jews there this week, and be back to Civita Vecchia in time* for the Malta steamer. The steamer we are in goes only to Naples. Our hearts groan for this land of darkness. You cannot form any idea of it. We dared not bring a single tract with us into Genoa; we would have been put in prison immediately, and alt our books burned. If a Catholic were converted, and wanted to join the Protestant worship, they dare not receive him. And yet the people are gay and smiling. Poor careless Italians! they sit still and are at ease. Leghorn is a free port, and we hope great things may be done there; the engineer of the Sully is a nice Irishman, and has agreed to receive tracts and distribute them to all passengers going from or into Italy. By a wonderful providence, all engineers are British, and Protestants; we have contrived to interest them a good deal in the great cause. I must now close, as it is midnight. I am mercifirlly preserved in health, as are all my companions. Andrew is sometimes a little sick at sea, but it soon wears off. Dr.

Keith hurt his foot in Paris, which troubles him a little. Dr. Black is indefatigable, and stands all his fatigues wonderfully. I do trust you are all well, and that I shall hear from you soon. Poste restanUy Alexandria I fear will be too late unless you have sent. Let Andrew’s friends know. Commend me to Dr. Russell and lady. The spy-glass is in constant use; and Andrew sometimes steers by the compass. Commend me to Mr. Candlish and all that inquire for me. May you €ind I be kept abiding in the Beloved to the end — nothing else is worth possessing. Your affectionate brother,

RoBT. MURBAY M*ChEYNE.

I fear Mamma will not find all the domestic particulars she would like in my letters. My clothes have answered well hitherto. I shall certainly adopt the native costume if we find it very hot. I miss my quiet cup of tea, and supper of oatmeal, most of all. We are getting burned in the complexion a good deal. We read the 1 7th of Revelation to night; I never saw it so full of yeaning before. Oh the blessing of a pure preached gospel, of a simple faith in Jehovah Tzidkenu! We met some monks to-night, with their bare heads and brown garments. Love to Willie; kind regards to Moody; I hope they do not forget us; it is a hard enterprise, and we need divine grace and strength every hour. Vale, vale, o mia sorella! The very children here speak Italian!