To His Father (Malta)
My Dear Father* — We have just cast anchor in the beautiful harbor of Yaletta, after a most prosperous and pleasant voyage from Italy across the great sea of the ancients. I have just heard the musical bells of the town striking the hour of ten, although by my watch it is only half-past nine* p. m. As we have thus gained half an hour by journeying east, I shall expend it upon you. On reflection, I perceive that we have lost the half hour; still, whatever way the bargain be, you shall have the benefit. I hope you received my last letter, I think, dated Genoa, 24th April. Italy is such an inquisitorial place that letters are often opened and detained.
Genouy 25th April — On the 25th we met with an interesting Jewish gentleman, who gave us much information; and we had some m interesting conversation with the Vice-consul, a very pleasant Italian — a Catholic. He showed us his Bible, Latin and Italian, but it cost about L.3, putting it beyond the reach of the mass of the people. We had a nice walk to the top of the hills above the town, and saw the pleasant vales of the Ligurian Mountains beyond. The town is fortified on all sides, and the guns are all pointed down upon the town. We bade farewell to Genoa the same evening during a lovely sunset. The sea was rougher than usual, but the Sully carried us nobly through. We awoke next morning in the harbor of Leghorn.
Leghorn 26th April, — The morning was raw and rainy, like old Scotland over again. The place very unlike Italy; a great contrast to Genoa. It lies quite low and flat, so that you see nothing from the sea but the Custom House. It is, like Venice, intersected with canals. We were rowed up one of these to* the Hotel San Marco; here we were welcomed by Mr. Thomson, the excellent alhergatdre. You remember it was here the faithful Martin died in 1834; and here poor A. G. spent nearly his last days. Mr. Thomson and his lady are good kind people, and were truly overjoyed to receive four Scotch ministers all in a lump. They had heard of our coming, and were on the lookout for us. He insisted on our dining with him the first day; and we found it so agreeable, that we just formed part of the family during the week we remained there. A Captain S., a truly excellent though eccentric gentleman, and a Mrs. Dr. G., on her way to Bombay, formed part of the family. We visited the Synagogue the same evening, being the beginning of the Jewish Sabbath. It is a very handsome room, capable of holding 2000; next to that of Amsterdam, it is the finest synagogue in Europe. The place where the law is kept is beautifully adorned with white and variegated marble; it resembles exactly the altar in Episcopal churches. The reading and chanting desk, in the middle of the room, was also finely ornamented. The room was well filled with Jews from every nation under heaven. Andrew and I wandered up and down among them, staring and stared at. The Rabbi was reading prayers, which ended with a beautiful Hebrew psalm. They were greatly surprised when Andrew and I joined in the
50 FAMILlAll LETTERS.
psalm. A Jew who could speak English joined us, and explieiined every thing. Several venerable men in Eastern dresses, with splendid beards, stood beside the Ark; many came and kissed their hands, and received their blessing. We were told that these were Rabbis frofn Jerusalem.
2’lth April, Saturday. — This morning we visited the Synagogue again at half-past 8, and again at 1. We saw them bring the law out of the Ark with great pomp; the Rabbi and others marched, whilst a chorus of men and boys chanted a psalm; the velvet curtain was drawn aside — the doors opened with a silver key — three immense rolls, splendidly covered with velvet and silver, were revealed. One was chosen, and carried aloft to the reading place, the choir still singing. The Rabbi uncovered the roll, and suddenly lifted it up in sight of all; instantly the psalm hushed, and every head was bent in adora* tion. We joined in the reading of the Law and then of the Prophets; this attracted many of them to us. Alas, the veil is on their hearts; they draw near with the mouth, when the heart is far from God. They concluded with the 29th Psalm, “Jehovah will bless his people with peace/^ magnificently sung. We were introduced to the Rabbi from Jerusalem, who gave us snuff, and was very polite; asked who we were, and whence we came, and invited us to visit him in his dwelling, 5opra synagoga, on Monday. Same day we visited the English burying-place; a sweet spot, adorned with melancholy cypresses, and weeping willows and roses; all the tombs are of marble. We saw the tomb of Smollet, of Horner, and, still more interesting, that of James Martin, bearing an inscription from the pen of Chalmers. We prayed that we might be like him. We spent the evening in getting much valuable information from Captain S. as to popery.
2Sth April, — A quiet Sabbath in Leghorn. Heard English service by Mr.. A congregation* of 60 to 70. Very poor, or rather very bad. Dr. Black preached in the evening, in the hotel, to about 60 or 70 people. Many Scotch — many that had not heard a sermon for years. All were deeply impressed, and some in tears, it was so affecting to hear divine truth in our own way, so far from the land of our fathers. Many said they would like to hear the same every Sabbath evening. We have been seriously impressed with the iniportance of Leghorn as a station both for Jews and Protestants, and may yet recommend that a minister should be sent to labor among both.* The text was in Ezek. xi. 19, “I will give them one heart.” It was in the room next to that in which Martin died. I could not but think how much his meek spirit would have rejoiced in the solemn exercises of the evening.
29th. — Visited the Rabbi from Jerusalem, and had a most interesting interview with him for about two hours. He sat cross-legged in the Eastern style; spoke Italian and a little French; is a strong-minded man, and admirably versed in the Old Testament. He has also some knowledge of the New. But I must not now enter into particulars. We visited their library, and saw several rare and curious Hebrew books. We also visited their school, which is a large, handsome establishment — ^300 boys and girls attend it. They are admirably taught Hebrew, Italian, French, Geography, and History. There are about 20,000 Jews in Leghorn, and they are
* The Rev. R. W. Stewart has since been appointed to this station by the Free Church of Scotland. — Ed.
perfectly free in Tuscany. We determined, therefore, to spend the rest of the time here, till the government steam-packet came up, rather than make a hurried visit to Rome. In the evening we met an English clergyman from Pisa, Mr. Robins, an excellent and living young minister, who greatly encouraged us.
Tuesday J 30fA April — We spent this day in going over the school carefully. We began with those learning the Hebrew letters, and ended with the young men reading the Talmud. We paid another visit to the Jerusalem Rabbi, and had a still more interesting discussipn with him.. Many came in to hear and to join in the argument. Jews always speak at the top of their voice, and when a quotation in Hebrew is made, they all join in it, so that you may imagine there was some degree of noise. One interesting thing we saw at the door of the Synagogue, the box for collections to send to Jerusalem; L.800 a year is gathered in Leghorn for this object. We dined at a Mr. Macbean’s, who was very kind, and gave us much information. In the evening we visited another Rabbi in the library. He was very proud of his Jewish books; but when we pressed him on
Isaiah liii. and Micah, he held up a little book in his hand, nran nan; or, ‘* The Defence of the Faith,” and said that it contained an answer to all objections.
1st May. — Guns firing, the Duchess of Tuscany having been safely delivered of a son. Two Jewish gentlemen called on us, and went with us to introduce us to some of their most influential people. The Jewish quarter is quite stirred when we pass through. Every eye upon us. All have heard of our discussions with the Rabbi. The learning of Dr. Black and Andrew Bonar, and their knowledge of their books, has made an evident impression. We are told that they cannot imagine what it is we are seeking, in this friendly way of visiting them. Visited the burying-ground of the Jews in the evening, and wandered among their marble sepulchres till the sun went down; type of the present state of Israel — darkness and death. We fervently pray that God may really make use of our mission, in the smallest measure, to open the door of faith to Israel.
2nd May. — The most remarkable event of the day was a visit from the Chancellor of the Jews, their chief man, a polished Italian, who gave us much information in a most open and friendly manner. We are told the Jews are very sorry that we are going away. Wrote my people this evening.
Srd, — Took farewell of our kind host and hostess, and got on board the Lycurgus at 1; a very splendid steamer and ship of war. We had a singular mixture of company on board as far as Civita Vecchia, where we arrived at 6 in the morning of the 4th. We had 3 nuns in their black veils and white hoods; 2 Dominican monks from Italy with their brown coarse gowns, rope, and rosary, and sandaled feet. Athanasius, Greek Bishop of Tripoli — 2 of his young clergy, and a servant, in beautiful dresses — a Greek in his turban and romantic red and green dress, and many others. Most were going to Rome; and we had some eager discussions on Popery in Latin.
5th May. — Spent a quiet Sabbath on the water. Andrew has been sick a good deal. I have not felt so well and comfortable since leaving home, as I have done these 3 days. The bland winds of the Mediterranean agree with me. We sailed about 20 miles south of
Sicily this morning, and saw its hills among the clouds. I felt it very sweet to lie and see the sea, round and round, a complete circle to the horizon on all sides. It made me feel so little, and God so great. The rocks of Gozza came in sight about 4. I watched the sun sinking behind the sea. It was truly beautiful; and now I must conclude for to-night, leaving a small space for to-morrow. I hope I may find letters from you here. I intend to write Mr. Candlish to-morrow. If by any means I should not get it accomplished, you might show him this letter. Our vessel is motionless. I hear the Valetta clock strike 12. Good night; and may the God of Israel watch over you all. Yours,
R. M’G.
Valetta, 6th May, 1339. — This morning we landed safely, and I have been writing Mr. Candlish ever since. I now shut up this to you. I hope it may find you well and happy all. We sail for Alexandria to-morrow morning by 7 — five days’ passage. We go by Syra, one of the Greek islands, where we land for two hours. If the Lord keep us and guide our course, we shall be in Alexandria on Sabbath next. The sea to-day is dead calm. Malta is a warm spot — just like an oven. I forgot to tell you that we got’ large straw hats at Leghorn, and a linen shirt to wear instead of a coat. I think you would hardly recognize the venerable deputation. We were glad to hear the English tongue once more in this place, and to see the English soldiers and sailors. We call on Dr. Clark this evening — out of town an hour’s ride. I am sorry there are no letters from you; hope they may be at Alexandria. We have heard nothing since we left London. There are few Jews here. Andrew is quite well to-day after his sea-sickness. The two Doctors wonderfully well. The Lord has blessed us hitherto. He will keep the feet of his saints, of whom we are the least. My heart beats a little to-day; but another sail will do me good. One thing I know, I am in the hands of my Father in heaven, who is all love to me, not for what I am in myself, but for the beauty he sees in Immanuel. Good-bye for the present. May the Lord watch over you, father, mother, sister, brother; thus prays your affectionate son,
RoBT. Murray M^Cheyne.